Legacy777

it's normally called a pitch mount.....not tranny mount.

yeah....send it back.....tell them you want the 4-wire sensor.

Just to let you know......there is not two tranny mounts, there is only one, and it's located at the rear of the tranny at the rear crossmember. I don't want to point fingers, but if heard a mechanic say they replaced two tranny mounts, when there's only one.....i'd be a little suspicious of their work. Either they're not competent to know what part is what, or they are trying to screw ya. Just my two cents.....

Is it an ej20 n/a or turbo motor? I haven't really heard too many problems about the ej20 motors. Nothing like what we have heard about the 2.5. I do hear ya on the maintenance. It's one thing after another. I've got a couple more things I need to do to mine, and I think I'll see the light at the end of the tunnel.....until something else breaks or needs replacing.

Definitely get a 4-wire. 3-wire sucks. I actually just replaced my 3-wire OEM with a 4-wire generic from oxygensensors.com. I would highly recommend you go that route, or replace it with an OEM O2 sensor. Whatever you do, make sure you keep the 4-wire sensor. I put it in last night, and I don't think my car has ever idled as good as it does now. I didn't try and measure the potential difference between where the O2 sensor mounts and a good ground point, but considering the bolts to the heads & the bracket on the back of the tranny are pretty much it in terms of completing the grounding circuit. I know all of my exhaust is rusted to hell, including the head bolts. The only & last option I would consider is getting an additional wire and clamp it to the body of the O2 sensor & then run that to the extra ground wire. But it sounds like they sent you the wrong part, so just send it back for the correct part. Also, at least for my car, the stupid generic instructions they had for the wiring was pretty much incorrect for my car. I used the pin-outs in my FSM to know what wires to connect to what.

All depends on how you're building the motor. The only real difference a DOHC setup will give you is the "possibility" of a higher revving engine. But assuming you set everything else up correctly, you probably aren't going to see much gains from an extra 1000 rpm.

It is there, it's at the very top of the trans in a corner. Very well hidden. The brake band only handles shifting, has nothing to do with the actual driving portion of the trans. Has the fluid been changed recently?

2.5T is the only semi-closed deck block.

No, the adjustment is on the outside......it's just very very hard to get access to. Are you experiencing any problems with the tranny?

green connectors are the green T diag connectors. More info on my site.

if you put 2.5 heads on a 2.2 you will reduce compression ratio and engine will suck. However the reverse is true also. 2.2 heads on a 2.5 will give a very high comp ratio n/a motor, so much that you'll need to run premium.

I'm sure there is a way to look at the clutch packs and tell. I'm not exactly sure what they should look like new/used, etc.

I guess check the wiring to the sensor, if all looks good, you could try testing the sensor......other then that.....not really sure....other then the sensor being bad.

put some 75-90 multi-viscosity fluid in the trans rather then the straight 90 wt.

I actually just ordered a set of axles from cvaxles.com Should've done this in the first place rather then repack the bearing & replace boot. Cost was $55 per axle & $50 core charge. Not bad in my mind, and they also have a lifetime warranty on them.

nope, you have to remove the rear extension housing to get at the duty c solenoid. Make sure you test the wiring to the solenoid to make sure that's not the problem. What symptoms are you having, other then light being on & that code stored.

never really heard of that badging. You may want to ask in the legacy forum on http://www.nasioc.com there's a couple guys from japan in there, and they may be able to give you some help.

There is a reason it says they are compatible....it's because they are. It may not be best practice to do so. The boiling point temps really won't mean squat is one thing. Dot 3, Dot 4, & Dot 5.1 are compatible and can be mixed. I wouldn't recommend mixing all those, but they can be mixed. Dot 5 is the silicone based brake fluid and it CAN NOT be mixed with Dot 3, Dot 4, & Dot 5.1. It's also not recommended for street use since it does not absorb water.

got mine from summit racing....they were the cheapest at the time.

If you want to get technical, dextron III supercedes dextron II.....just like part #'s

park in a warm garage....that's about the only solution I can see.

I'll try the brake and accel thing. Like I said I don't think it's mounts......since I just replaced them, but it might show me something else too.

what do you mean? sure money is an object, but I can get reman'd axles for 55 a piece. Ball joints shouldn't be too much.

You need to repack the bearings with good wheel bearing grease. The stuff in there is just packing grease. Technically, if you mess with anything you should get an alignment, even if you don't dissamble the hub from the strut.....it's going to be off slightly from what it was. The same with the rear. I'd sooner pay for an alignment then wear my tires down.

there's two different brake lights. The one that goes on for the e-brake also goes on if the level of fluid in the MC is low. There is also a stop lamp light that illuminates if a bulb is out.