Legacy777

welcome you can check out the rest of the owner's manual if you want too http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/owner there's a pdf with all the scans in it, if you want to d/l it.

The 90-94 legacies did not have any EGR equipment. from 95-99 or something in there I think they had them, then in 2000 I think they didn't have them.....it's been very sporadic, and i believe a lot of it is due to what the emissions were that year, and the advancements they made in engine designs. I would think they would prefer not to use an EGR system unless they have to in order to keep emissions down.

this is for the first gen legacies....but should give you an idea.... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/VIN_decode.jpg

granted this is for a 90 legacy non turbo.... but you may be able to match some of the locations and fuse ratings. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/owner/118.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/owner/119.jpg

Try this......in the morning on when you first start it up......move the gear selector in neutral, let the car idle for a minute, then go.....and let us know if it still does it.

Get an O2 sensor MIL eliminator and you should be good. The second O2 sensor doesn't really do anything but monitor cat efficiency. Many people have put a MIL eliminator in place after getting headers, high flow cat, or straight pipe and had no problems.

Is the 94 you have the older body style, or the newer bodystyle older body style http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/subaru/jimturbo1.jpg newer body style http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/subaru/brandonausrs.jpg The older body style has a mechanical cable driven from tranny to combination meter. The newer one is probably electronic the whole way.

http://www.smallcar.com/svx/index.htm

There was some issues with the early legacy 90-91's with fluid draining out of the torque converter (drain-back valve issues) possible you have a similar issue. In the morning do you let the car warm up, or do you just start it up and go? Re the filters on these trannies. They are merely nothing but metal screens, so you really don't need to replace them. The internal screen, just take it out and back flush it with a solvent of some kind. More then likely it will be clean. I've got 174k on my car/tranny and had the thing apart several times after 100k for misc maintenance and the screen was clean, no debris, no nothing. The external filter kit was added to the early legacies again 90-91 to help alleviate issues they were having with production crud getting in the trans and mucking it up. It was an add-on retro fit kit that I'm not sure if all the later first gen legacies got. The kit is like 15 bucks (filter only is considerably more) Dealer said you don't need to replace the filter ever.....while I don't agree with that, I think every 100k would be fine. I replaced mine around 140k.

Pat, assuming all your tests on the TCU are correct, I'd try and find a used TCU at a junkyard & try swapping it. If that works, then you've found your problem.....a screwed up TCU. Someone on the board may even have a spare....

yeah....the host the board is with is having issues. We don't have an ETA on when it's going to be back up unfortunately

I'm sorry if I'm totally missing something here.....but I read in your last post that you said the tranny shifts fine.......if that's the case.....what's wrong?

it's josh..... One thing I'd try doing is running a separate line from the TCU pinout for the duty c solenoid, and connect it to the solenoid. If problem still occurs, I'd highly suspect the TCU.

look on the legacycentral bbs.....it's been done http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org

what I'm trying to get is how the shift is happening. When you hold the accelerator to the floor it will go to redline.....no biggy. But when it does shift......does it seem to lag, what exactly happens.

when the voltage dropped to 0v.......did the FWD fuse light go out?

there's not much diagnostic stuff for the early computers. You can pretty much do all the diagnostic stuff yourself. All the procedures are on my site, including for the tranny. I don't remember, but when you put the FWD fuse in, it didn't fix the binding? Sorry I've read & responded to a couple threads like this. If the 12v to the solenoid fixes the binding then I'd say the solenoid is ok. If the FWD fuse holder didn't fix the binding, I'd say it's wiring or TCU.

The newer models the sensor is on the transmission. The older ones....the sensor is actually in the combination meter and there is a cable that comes up from the tranny to it.

hmm....yeah double check the code to make sure.....I've never heard of anyone driving a subie get one of those codes.....but like Phillip mentioned, it could mean there are other issues such as the filter and what not that needs to be looked at.

so it only does this when cold? What happens when everything is up to temp....what happens if you hold the accelerater to the floor? To properly check the level, you should slowly cylce from park to 1st gear and back to park. leave engine running and then check level. more then likely the level is fine, but the proper way is to cycle through the gears.

can you be more descriptive as to exactly what it's doing during the shift. What happens if you just floor it and let the computer shift on its own? What's the procedure you're doing to check the fluid level? may want to check out http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org as well....

To be quite honest, I have never heard of a fuel temp sensor. Are you sure that's what they said? If so, I'd suggest going some place else for a second opinion. Most autozones will pull the codes for you. They won't clear them, but they'll usually pull them and tell you what they are. There's a few other autoparts places that will do it as well.

I just replaced my cv axles today. you shouldn't really have much movement when they are on the car. When off the car the inner joint is capable of sliding back and forth. The outer one doesn't really move in or out.

other option you could try is just hard wiring the fuel pump relay to ground and a switch, so you can turn the fuel pump on & off on your own.

the info I have on the fuel pump control goes like this flow chart Crank angle sensor => ECU => Fuel Pump Relay => Fuel Pump If that's the case, then the ignitor shouldn't affect the fuel pump....