Legacy777

Yeah it will. There are two different coils. The MT had the "diamond" coil packs, and the autos had the hitachi coil packs. The 95's I believe all had the diamond coil pack, and yes you can stick a diamond coil pack on a car that originally had a hitachi. I did it. The diamond coil packs are supposedly able to handle a little more juice, which is why I upgraded when I put my MSD dis 2 ignition in.

Just for clarification, Is it leaking fluid on the ground? Or just inside the diff? Have you seen transmission fluid in the diff fluid? I wouldn't see how swapping cv axles could cause problems, unless they messed it up some how (banging on the case)

glad you got it figured out, and it was pretty easy fix

Did you get any CEL's? Pull the plugs, see if they're wet with fuel. Hold them up against the block and see if they spark. If they don't, look at your electrical system, which you sound like you're doing. If the coil pack is out of spec, then it's most like bad. I don't know what coil pack you have, but this should be the same for which ever one you have http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coilpacktest.jpg If it's way out of spec, then it's probably bad. The link I gave also says how to check ignitor. See what testing these pieces tell you and go from there.

Not sure if you can buy just the bleeder screw. They'll probably charge you an arm & leg for them...

The 560 ECU is from a MT equipped 1990 MY, with a production date of before May of 1989. That ECU has been superceeded by ECU ending in part # 564. The 564 ECU is from a 1991 MY car with prod date of March of 1991. The 382 ECU is from an AT equipped 1990 MY, with prod dates between July 1989 & October 1989. The 382 ECU has been superceeded by ECU ending in part # 383. The 383 ECU was found in 1990 & 1991 MY cars with prod date November 1989 and newer. Detailed enough You could've found this out yourself. Here's all the info http://usmb.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8399&highlight=manual The parts manual has the ECU info in it.

Yes I can identify them by the part #'s yeah you should be able to use an auto in a manual & vice-versa. It's really how the car's wiring is setup that determines how the ECU handles things. Don't ask me why they gave different part #'s for each though.... The differences are internal, and probably in the maps...nothing that would probably be very noticable. They all hook up to the same place, same wiring, same everything.

It's possible that leaving the fuse in all that time messed up the duty c solenoid. That solenoid normally sees a pulsed signal. With the fuse in, it sees a constant 12v signal which closes the valve and gives you 100% to the front. Unfortunately, to get at the duty c solenoid, you have to remove the rear extension housing, which isn't extremely difficult, but it is some work. Here's some pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg

If you put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder does your problems go away? Try that first, just to see if you can pin point it to the rear clutch packs.

lsi didn't have turbo. Turbo legacy pretty much had no options. It had all the options....except leather. The lsi probably did have leather.

lsi just has a few more goodies. I wouldn't say it's very rare. I know there's a generic car site that has all the different models and what their options are.....I just don't remember what it is....hopefully someone else will.

these coils typically can't go bad on one side. I'd check the plugs & wires first. May want to just replace them. If you still have problems, I'd probably say it's the coil. I think I got mine for around $60 bucks from http://www.libertysubaru.com

you won't be able to find an aftermarket one. Only from the dealer. However it's not really too necessary to change it. Maybe if you have 100k, it might not be a bad idea to change it. But most of those filters are just screen type filters used to catch any of the big stuff.

Yeah, I'd probably be leaning towards a coolant temp sensor. Do you have any engine codes stored? May want to stop by a local autozone or some place, have them pull the codes just to see. I'd probably just replace the coolant temp sensor anyway. They're not much. I think I got mine for like $20 from http://www.libertysubaru.com

what type of oil you running?

the hood below is a stock hood. Depending if you have a legacy or impreza, you could get a hood from a model that has a scoop and/or vents and put it on your car. I put a turbo legacy hood on my n/a legacy. So I've got a hood scoop now. I will foreworn you. Get a new hood. Don't try a find a used one, unless you can physically look at it, and it's perfect. Hood scoops are rather pricey if bought new from the dealer. Check out some of the local junkyards or classifieds on here, or http://www.nasioc.com

the wrx 5spd will bolt up.....however you will run into diff ratio problems. The WRX uses a 1:1.1 stepper reduction. So you would need the rear diff as well from the WRX. The t-leg & wrx trans are pretty much identical. Pretty sure they use the same clutch. The intake manifold won't work as mentioned....the coil pack is trivial. The bolt pattern for the manifold to heads is different, not to mention the WRX has tumble valve generators, that complicate the mix more. You can squeeze in a WRX intercooler, it's been done. Check out the bbs, as subyluvr mentioned. Lots of info over there.

read over this thread. It should help http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=183

65-75 ft/lbs I do mine to 75

The wiring for the ECU is completely different for those year vehicles. May want to search http://www.scoobymods.com/forums I think he may have an ECU pinout

If it's like the legacy, you need to remove the glove box, and the cross-brace that holds it in. You should then see the motor. There's three screws holding it in. You need to remove those and the tube that connects to the motor. You may need to remove some of the metal bracketry in there to get it out....or at least I did. That should get you at that area where the motor and blower is. If they nested real bad, it wouldn't be a bad idea to take the evap box out. You'll have to discharge the a/c system.....but depending on how much of mess they left in there.....I'll let you decide. I have pics of mine....it was a mess http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acevap/

At night, take a water mist bottle and spray it around the electrical stuff, coil pack, wires, wiring harness and see if you see any arcs. may want to try dielectric grease on the plug wires.

You may not want to put a resistor in there. If the ECU sees the resistance is good, and tries to send signals to it, and it doesn't respond....it may cause other issues..... The relay dropping when ignition goes off is a good idea. To elaborate. I think the cruise type thing is setup in the switch, purely an electrical switch vs. mechanical/toggle. Doing something like this would reset the AWD circuit and leave it untouched when power is cut. I'd probably go this route. You should be able to find a generic push button electric switch somewhere. Yeah, you should be able to get at those duty solenoids pretty easily. I don't remember if you even have to drop the valve body....been too long since I had mine out.

No mine isn't a turbo.....at least yet anyway... yeah jeeps are hunks of junk.....you couldn't give one to me. I worked at a dealership for a summer.....they had so many things wrong with them. Check out those other two boards I posted. Someone on there may have the wiring diagram information you're looking for.