Legacy777

I've got the same o-ring kit, but I didn't know if there was a specific one for the a/c system.

Not sure if this is the correct model you're looking for.....but that's about all I got http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/EJ20G_ECU.pdf

where'd you get your o-ring kit? Was it a generic one, or specific to your ac system? I need to replace some of the seals on mine, and on the used compressor I put in the shaft seal is leaking......so I may have to swap compressors again.

I'd say go with AWD, yeah you can put an RS hood on the normal models. Two places I'd recommend you check out are http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org & http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums

It cracked on the front of the passenger end tank right? It's fairly common. You can try some jb weld or epoxy....but you really should replace it. I ran mine for a while with it leaking. After a certain point it would stop leaking because the water level was too low.

You're saying the alarm system has an auto arming/locking mechanism, and it locks the doors automatically after a given period of time? This may help. http://www.randomsoup.com/subie/huggyalarm.html Russ's site's messed up some how. I'll shoot him an email to see if he can fix it.

I'd first see if you notice any leaks around the heater core itself.

yup...maf sensors are right after the air filter box.

Correct. If you still have torque bind with the fuse in....you got some other weird issues...

Not sure what an Innova scanner is. Select monitor is made by some company for subaru. it's the only "official" diagnostic computer for subarus.

The half shafts aren't too bad. The biggest issue for me was getting the stupid axle nut off. I think it's 32mm. You also have some options when removing the axle from the hub, you can try and disconnect the ball joint from the hub to give you enough room to get the axle out. Or you can loosen the bolts that hold the strut onto the hub (however you need to have an aligmnent done. Thirdway is to loosen the front bolt that holds the lower A-arm to the frame. I haven't done the last way, but others have said it works.

Cool!! Glad you got it working. Yeah acc. power and true switched are definitely two different things that can throw ya for a loop. I had a similar issue with my alarm. The "professionals" wired the starter kill up to the acc power lead rather then the switched lead. So guess what, acc. power got cut when you tried to start the car, so the relay was no longer energized, and the car started fine. Needless to say I corrected it

I had a similar problem where my MAF was failing. However the fact you said you have a sulfer smell might indicate a clogged cat converter.

I've edited your post to go to your orig post in OT, so discussion can take place there.

Not exactly sure what the output should be...probably some oscillating or on/off signal This page has some info.... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page2.jpg The speedo base can get cranky as well as the cable can make some noise.....shouldn't really affect/cause the problems you are having though, because it's for the main speedo meter http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg Yeah I have a select monitor. I got it off of ebay. I lucked out, found one with the cartridge for my car. You gotta have the select monitor and the right cartridge. It's pretty cool. I can see all the sensor values, and what's going on. The OBD2 computers are more sophisticated and tell more details....but you can use alternative methods besides a select monitor to read them. lucky texan, select monitor is subaru's scan tool they use to read the computers.

Not that I don't feel this is a very important topic, it is not really a technical topic and is more suited for off topic.

Dave, wish you were closer and I could plug in the select monitor. There are two speed sensors. Speed sensor 2 is in the combination unit on the dash and displays the speed. Speed sensor 1 is in the tail shaft, and that would be the one that could be causing you issues. It "should" leave a code if it's not working though. When you took the air susp out......did you remove the fuse for the air susp, did you rip out the computer and associated parts?

I'd say temp sensor as well. They're like a $20 item or so. not very expensive. here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG

Procedure sounds right. Before you go doing this though, lemme ask you a question? Have you put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and performed the same figure 8 maneuvers? This really won't tell you what part of the rear power transfer system is bad, but it will definitely tell you it's related to it. The duty c solenoid (aka transfer clutch solenoid) can go bad, but there's also a possibility the clutches themself may be worn. Only problem is you don't really know until you take them apart, and I don't think you will be really taking them out when taking the rear extension housing off. here's some scans from the fsm that may help give you a better picture. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg Sounds like your dealer is pretty good, so I'd probably say go ahead with swapping the solenoid out and see if that fixes your problem.

Get the number off the trans, it should be like a tz or something starting with that. I'll look it up in my parts books. I wouldn't think it would be a common thing to get incorrect ratios installed. However it's possible. But I would expect fairly major problems/noises if they were wrong.

I could do everything on there for under 500 bucks and still walk away with money in hand. There's maybe 200....possibly 300 in parts....that's over estimating. I agree.....just tell them not to touch it and take it some place else. Doing maintenance on these cars is very easy compared to some.

if you had an over amount of moisture inside that would cause it. You may want to try leaving a small heater running in it overnight to try and dry things out. The suggestion about leaving the window open a little bit helps too.

Turbo's are fine. I wouldn't worry about it. personally, you can not have too much power....go with the turbo

hmmm....assuming they did replace the seal properly, only other thing is a crack, but I would think they would have seen that if they had it apart. But that's just my guess.

Nice! Honestly.....after wrenching enough, you get to feel what's about right. Normally I'm in the ball park 5-10 ft/lbs if I bother to check myself. Certain things though I will use a torque wrench because they're more sensitive.