Legacy777

there is a bleed screw on the top passenger side of the radiator. This must be unscrewed while bleeding the system.

the flashing AT oil temp light means there is a code stored in the Tran's computer. The dealer can pull that info for you.

dude.....don't go back.....the dealer will charge you less money....and do a better job and use OEM parts. Is Hardyston, north.....south jersey?

no difference... if your dealer doesn't have them, or has a high price, you can get them from http://www.subaruparts.com I ordered my t-belt stuff from them as they were the cheapest. Big thing with subaruparts.com is that they are good if you order parts that are in stock....if they don't have them in stock....you may have a wait. When I checked last night, those mounts were in stock.

Idle switch is in the TPS sensor. You can verify the TPS ie idle switch is properly adjusted by following the test procedure in the following scan http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg If it is out of spec, adjust it, so it's in spec. If you can't adjust to spec.....you should most likely replace the TPS.

I replied to your post on the bc-bf list but here it is for others you can find a lot of info on my server http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans I'm doing my t-belt very soon. I'm not replacing my water pump because it was done at 120k. But I'd recommend doing the water pump, t-stat, replace o-ring on the oil pump and add thread locker to the screws on the backing plate. Replace front cam & crank seals, rear cam seal. Also, if it looks like oil is leaking from valve covers, replace valve cover gaskets & grommets. I'm also replacing my t-belt tensioner. I decided to leave the pullies alone. If I get in there and t-belt idler pulley bearings are bad, I'll probably go ahead and replace them. I'd say get an OEM belt. They have the marks on the belt, which does help get things aligned Other then that....you should be good.

yup, there's an all rubber mount. part # is 41022AA080 cost should be around 55-60 bucks.

may want to ask your question on http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org or http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums There's some people on there that may be able to help you out.

you can try my method http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=739&highlight=yellow+head%2A

Dan, First thing i would do is make sure all the connections are good and proper. I don't quite follow what was exactly done to bypass something. You'll find quite a bit of tech info you can d/l, fsm scans, engine & electrical section from the fsm which should help you diagnose the problem on my server http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans The individual scans are from my 90's fsm....the other pdf complete scan is from the 92 fsm....but are pretty much identical.

should fit fine.....why did you need spacers on the 91 legacy? where did it rub....on the strut? Main reason it rubbed was because the tire is too tall. The stock overall diameter for the legacies was much less then the WRX

Main thing with the oil pumps is to make sure the seal between it and the block is good, and the backing plate is connected well. If they are good, and clearances are good.....then pump should be fine.

On the FWD autos, 3rd gear is good to 120 mph.....so you're good there I downshift into the third to slow down.....some may say it will prematurely wear the tranny....it may....I don't care....prefer the control. As for your problem. Is it intermittant, or pretty consistant now? I had a weird vibration under decel...went away. I'm pretty sure it was cv axles. After replacing axles, I have not had any reoccurances, also, the car doesn't have a vibration it had before at higher speeds. Other thing to look at is your trans mounts, and possibly motor mounts.

if the lines are disconnected the car would be sagging and be like a low rider. So more then likely, the system is still hooked up.

those do look like nice wheels....see if you can get them elsewhere. My uncle did that for his A6....dealer wanted big money for the bbs's....got them from a shop and saved a good chunk of change.

yup....had the kyb gr2's on my car since 97-98 time frame....great struts

height control is part of the air suspension.....air suspension was a big pain in the butt.....if your car has been converted to normal struts, consider yourself lucky. I'd suggest ripping the air compressor and other stuff associated with it, if it already hasn't been taken out, to cut some weight.

Just keep the 17's that are on there.....they're nice factory wheels.

Depending on the type of cable you have, some are two pieces...while others are one. Mine used to make noises when it got cold. When the base of the speedo that goes into the tranny broke, I pulled the cable out and lubed it. Mine was all one cable....so I lucked out. You can try doing this......as trying to pull it out behind the dash would be a real pain.

OthercarisaFiat, Reset the ecu and see what codes come back. Always do this when diagnosising so you can rule out any erroneous codes. johnd911, There are ways of reading the airbag computer too....which I'd probably recommend doing.....I'll have to see about getting the procedure.

goin to move this to the old gen side since the loyal has more model years with the older cars.

Biggest thing I'd say to look into is the year of the engines and what your model year is. Assuming the EJ20 is an OBD1 engine, I would think you'd be able to swap everything over pretty easily. May want to ask these guys as well http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums

OBD2 is the second generation computer.....little more complicated, and has better diagnostics. See my reply to your other post.....check out some of the other boards....the bbs is a good resource....

may want to try some other boards. http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org or http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums maybe even http://www.nasioc.com but I think the first two would be more helpful.

you wanted the drive axles right? from what I can tell from the manual the length between boots is 294mm (11.57")