Legacy777

reset the ecu and then recheck codes....the likelyhood of all those things being bad is slim.

I bled mine yesterday.....I did a good 80 mi drive last night.....didn't have any issues with overheating.....I will check to see if I hear the noise any more.

If you want to give it a shot.......I have not done them, so I can't tell you how easy hard they are.

The atmospheric sensor on the non-turbos is in the ECU itself......unfortunately.....the only cure is to replace the ECU...... Does the light immediately come on after resetting the ECU....or does it take a while? If it doesn't immediately come on, you could try resetting the ECU close to the emissions place and hope it doesn't go on. Since your car is OBD1, they can't plug into it and figure drive cylces, etc.

Go to my site, notes & tips section, engine related. Read the info on how to pull the codes from the ECU. Pull the codes, reset the ECU.......drive the car....then pull the codes again to confirm which ones are truly causing a problem.....report back....and then either replace the part or take it to a shop and tell them "I want you to replace this part" If that's the case I suggest buying the part yourself and giving it to them. Cheaper that way.

yeah if the core support is bent beyond bending it back....you'll need to cut the old one out and weld a new one in.

Are you absolutely positive that is the problem? The speedometer base is a very common point of failure for these cars. I replaced mine last summer. I was driving along and all of sudden it just died. If you haven't pulled that base out and confirmed it is still working. I highly suggest you do that. pic of the piece in question http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

Brian, I haven't replaced mine yet. I'd like to do it this summer. I replaced mainly anti-sway bar component bushings. http://www.isrperformance.com has poly bushings. If you want OEM, you should be able to find the part #'s in the pdf parts manual.....if not let me know and I can help you....it's not exactly the most intuitive thing to look through....plus I've got a hard copy too, which makes it easier. More then likely you're goin to be around $250 for all new bushings in the rear for the lateral & trailing links.

You will need a press to get the bushings on the trailing arm for sure. The lateral links you might be able to get by without one...but it'd be far easier. My suggestion would be to dissamble yourself....take all the parts to a shop, have them press out old ones & press in new ones.....then you reassemble. That will save you the most amount of money. About the front......you might as well do the front.....it's only 4 more bushings in total. this pic should help. numbers 6 & 7 are the bushings for the trailing links numbers 4 & 5 are the bushings for the lateral links numbers 1 & 2 are the bushings for the front A-arm. Those are the bushings I would replace. So you'd need 2 (# 6) & (# 7) bushings & 4 (# 4) & (# 5) bushings. and if you do the front..... 2 (# 1) & (# 2) bushings. This page gives prices and drop down list of the different stuff. I'm not sure I'd mess with any of the other stuff...but that's me...especially if you're strapped for cash http://isrperformance.com/scripts/details.cfm?Item=PFF69-PFR69_legacy

Replacing the sensors is a little more difficult on the 90-94 legacies......the cam sensor is pretty simple and has been updated so there is a plug at the sensor and the connector. The crank sensor however you have to fish the connector/wire under the intake manifold....but it's still not a hard job. The new parts won't work on the old cars....... again....please try to keep all related posts in one thread.

Take the part #'s I posted above and ask the parts dept if they cross-reference. If they don't......they probably won't work. BTW.....please keep all related posts in one thread. Thanks

ok I lied......I don't remember spending that kind of money when I replaced mine, but apparently I did crank sensor part # is 22053AA010 updated cam sensor part # is 22056AA070

http://www.subaruparts.com & http://www.1stsubaru.com

yeah...forgot about that......that will mess with the damping though.....and it may give you some unexpected handling results.

Poly bushings do not deform as much, hence stiffer. However some people report squeaking from them.....I have some poly bushings and properly greased, I haven't had issues. I would not recommend replacing just the fronts or the rear struts. You'll get some really funky ride characteristics. I had a set of monroes on the front and kyb's on the rear.....the car had crazy oversteer.....not good when you don't want it. There really isn't any that I'm aware of to raise the car..... You could probably get a scorpion lift....that's about it.

yup.....mine is bypassed. However that line also goes to the IAC valve.....and is one of the lines that was open......so....I'll try and do the bleed thing with the front end jacked up to try and get it as the highest point.

Mine is making the same gurgling sound. I've noticed it recently. I probably should try bleeding the system again. When I did my t-belt this past weekend I did notice the overflow resevoir was at the low mark....so I did fill it back up. I'll bleed the system and see if it goes away. I suppose it's very possible for an internal headgasket leak. However I may have introduced air into the system when I did my injectors a while back.....and never completely got it out. I may try bleeding it tonight. I want to go for a drive tonight. I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary in terms of overheating or high temps......

You can find all the code information as well as reset procedures on my site. Go to the notes & tips section. Also to reset the ecu you can pull the EGI/TCU fuse for 30 min. I believe it's fuse # 14 in the dash fuse panel. Once you have the ECU cleared....recheck the codes and see what comes up.

Yeah legacy brakes are so freakin simple.....just like changing the oil. I can do it in like 15 minutes.

If you haven't done a tune-up recently.....I'd start there....plugs & wires, and all your filters, & pcv. I'd also run a tank of fuel system cleaner through. You may be having issues with the idle air control valve. They can be cleaned.....which might help. Or possibly a coolant temp sensor issue....

Yeah check out all the scans & pdf's on my server...... a lot of good info on there. Struts.....look at tire rack. GR2's are like 68 bucks on there I believe. Or if you want adjustability, go with the agx's. As for bushings.....might want to try some of the whiteline stuff, and or sti bushings..........or just get oem ones. I believe http://www.isrperformance.com has a listing of the different bushings that whiteline offers. they are polyurathane bushings. Not sure if you want to go that route or stay rubber. Opie on the bbs posted a thread with a fair amount of the hardened rubber bushings. He did something very similar with his turbo legacy.

you talking about dave's library or the stuff on my server? What weren't you expecting price wise.....the bushings or struts. The gr2's should run you about 65-70 a piece....which is pretty normal. I haven't priced bushings, but I'll probably end up replacing all the bushings on mine this summer.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

You should be able to pull the codes from the abs computer. The light on the housing should blink a stored code. Computer is under pass seat http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/absdiag.jpg

see if you can find seafoam near by. http://www.seafoamsales.com The stuff works wonders, and you can leave it in the crankcase....at least for a little bit.....it doesn't say how long...but I ran it in mine for a little bit to clean things up. Other possibility is that the lifters are just toast and you need new ones......