Legacy777

If the CEL is flashing there is a code stored in the computer. Pull the codes via the information on my site. Once you've done that. Reset the computer, drive the car, if you get the CEL again, pull the codes and compair them to what you pulled earlier.

valves will be fine....it's a non-interference engine

OEM bushings are rubber....performance bushings are typically a harder rubber compound or polyurathane.....both flex less and allow for less play under cornering....however they will transmit more road noise/vibration to the car. You'll mainly notice a difference on the older cars where the bushings are just old and shot.

If you had the battery out.....that should've cleared the codes. When you try to start it....what happens? Does it turn over, and just not start? If you check the codes after reconnecting the battery, it should display if there are any codes stored. If the IAC valve is out of whack, it's possible the car won't start. You can try just completely unplugging it, and then try starting the car.....that'd tell you for sure. If the car starts with it unplugged......then you found your problem.

there is no egr valve on the first gen legacies. Have you tried resetting the ECU? It should clear any outstanding codes that are not present. If you do clear them, and they still come back, then you still have problems with that particular sensor. Have you looked at the IAC valve. that's what code 24 is?

yes.....the bushings are pretty much the same as the first gen imprezas. So any bushings you find for the 93-01 imprezas will work on the legacy www.isrperformance sells the bushings

you can move things a little bit when loosening the strut bolts..... They do make aftermarket camber bolts you can add which will give you a little adjustability.

If they were both FWD or AWD, you could do it....They need to be replaced with like transmissions.

there's some very minor differences, but they should be completely swappable.

Three wire does have a ground, but it's for the heater. The sensor grounds through the exhaust itself. Over years of rust and what not, continuity between the exhaust pipes and the motor will degrade. The four wire has an extra ground for the sensor itself to ground through.

have you checked the codes again to make sure there's no others in there? Also, did you remember to disconnect the connectors after you pulled the codes?

Cool, yeah send it over when you get it scanned and I'll put it on there! thanks

I'm not sure anyone's going to have this info. Can you take another stud bolt out, take it to a hardware store and use it for comparison? Or take the nut off and check it with the hardware there. You may want to search online, maybe you can buy a helicoil set online, or even from the states and have it shipped.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

if they're jdm lights the cutoff will be on the wrong side, and really shouldn't be used on US spec cars.

yeah you're going to need some form of rising rate fuel pressure regulator, unless you get an upgraded fuel pump of some kind. Have you hooked up a gauge to the fuel line and watched what the pressure is at idle, and when you hit boost?

I'm assuming you have a 91 US spec legacy correct? I also assume you're talking about the corner lenses right next to the headlights correct? If so....they are not meant to blink. The turn signals for these cars is in the bumper. You can see a nice pic of the lights on my car

You will have to do some tweaking with the neutral safety switch as well as reverse, and park inhibitor......all shouldn't be too big an issue. ECU....really depends....as long as you have the MT/AT identifier pin on the ECU you should be ok.

that's not bad at all...my 90 sedan gets 21-22 in the city if I'm lucky

Dave's writeup is pretty good http://legacycentral.org/library/transmission/convert.htm

that third bulb is a euro style parking lamp light. In japan and europe the turn signals are where the corner lenses (parking lamps) are for the US cars. Since they still need parking lamps, they are integrated into the headlights.

If you are just changing the t-belt.....there's absolutely no need to TDC the engine.....just get all the alignment marks on the cam & crank lined up and your golden. TRUST ME! I just did this job, and was quite surprised at how easy it was. You do need to make sure you pick the right marks and align them to the plastic covers. But other then that. It's simple.

no these will not fit. The struts may possibly work....the sway bars will not work. Some of the guys on the legacycentral bbs have used WRX struts & springs......they however have a different spring rate.....which may make the car sit funny.

The only first gen legacy 90-94 that had twin piston calipers up front was the turbo legacy. Assuming you've swapped a standard legacy hub over, you should be good to use those calipers. You'll need at least 15" wheels to clear the calipers. You need the calipers and caliper brackets. The brake lines will be fine.....and you'll need new brake pads.

as mentioned 18's are going to be a little on the big side. Also, 8" & 9" rims are way to wide. You'll rub for sure. You should be fine with some 17 x 7" rims and tires that keep your overall rolling diameter the same as the stock tire.