Legacy777

check the codes......like I said....sounds very very similar to my problem.

The fuse holder is there so you CAN drive the car with a spare tire or where the front and rear tires are not the same diameter. I think the thing that is uncertain is how long can you drive with the fuse in. I don't think the owner's manual gives you a limit.....however I probably wouldn't do it for months....simply because the duty c solenoid isn't designed to have a continuous voltage to it....plus you'll probably wear the rear clutch pack prematurely. 91,93,94 Legacys, what did you find wrong with the car after you had it flatbedded home? I don't think the fact you drove around with the fuse in caused the failure. the extra strain on other componants may have led to an already weak componant to fail....but if everything is working good, you can run with the fuse in......it's just how long that is debatable....

What does it do when it dies.....does it just lose power? Does it sputter? Have you checked the ECU codes. Instructions are on my site under notes & tips, engine related. I had a similar problem. It turned out to be the MAF sensor.

well.....depending on the year......you can figure it out....or by the owner's manual. right now....all I have to offer is this vin decoder. There is probably one similar for the transmissions... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/VIN_decode.jpg I suppose you could swap stuff around in the differential, but that's a fair amount of work....you'd be better just finding a different transmission.

they'll pretty much all work. The electronics have changed a little from year to year in how the TCU logic controls things, but you can pretty much swap trannies around fine, as long as the gear ratio matches. That's the most important part!

first thing I'd do is change the trans fluid....half the time the trans fluid is so nasty and contributes to the binding problems. You may want to have it power flushed also.

Anything is possible.....like I said. Is the cam sensor code a steady, always on code? If you reset the computer, does it come back right away?

hmmmm....this is the same car correct? Don't think a fuel pump would set off a CEL. Really not sure what the problem is....check the code and report back.

assuming you performed the test correctly, the readings should be around those specs. If the coil pack isn't working right, it can cause a lot of problems. You can try to get a used one......I got my diamond for like 50 bucks, subaruparts or 1stsubaru should be around that price.

The WRX uses a 205/55 r16 as OEM size. It will fit on the first gen legacies with the correct offset. With the stock WRX wheels, you can have a slight bit of rubbing on the strut. It's not much, however the chance is there. If you run a wheel with a little less offset then +52mm, the chances of rubbing on the strut should go away.

The coil packs on the 95's are the same as the diamond's found on the early gen legacy MT's. You'll find the specs and testing procedure here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/coilpacktest.jpg

The MAF does not have any tubes coming out/in it. The MAF is the silver round thing connected to the airbox. The thing you're pointing to is the pressure exchange solenoid, which controls boost and the ECU's barometric pressure readings. Post over the http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org Someone with a little more knowledge on the vacuum setup should be able to help. I think there's a sticky with the diagram.

Unfortunately the canadian belts are probably your only option. You could try some belts from a later MY legacy.....it might work.

You can do the resistor mod.....you may want to squirt the solenoid and valve with some brake cleaner....it may be sticking...

let's try and keep relavent posts in one thread.... thanks

let's try and keep relavent posts in one thread.... thanks

http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG

I don't think you'll be able to do it.....I tried getting the clutch off, the bearing was knocking on mine.....couldn't do it. The new/used one I put in leaks.....so I'll get to do it again....yay....

no prob

you mean this guy http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2480.JPG oil pressure sender coolant temp sensors are here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG for more pics, check out link below http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/

I wouldn't touch that rod.....normally they are adjusted ok, and like keith mentioned, if you misadjust it....it'll really screw with things. I've played with more bias, pedal travel issues on my car and am quite familar with the long pedal travel. The correct solution is a larger bore MC. SS lines may help, but won't solve the problem. Look on the MC and see what size MC you have. Also, do you have ABS or non-abs? Are the calipers all stock? Have you bled the brake lines? Lastly, the newer imprezas may have a more slightly boosted brake booster, so you get less brake assist. Some people have swapped to the single diaphram brake booster to improve brake feel vs. the tandem booster.

common oil leaks are the oil filler o-ring, bolt grommets on the valve covers, and the rear o-ring on the passenger side cam cover. All easy things to change. Do plugs, wires, pcv valve, fuel filter, air filter, and change your fluids.

running in FWD mode for extended periods of time "may" and I say "may" cause premature failure of the duty c solenoid since with the fuse in, it's seeing a 12v constant signal. Normally it sees a varying pulsed voltage.

I'm sure they have a part #. However i don't think they are going to vary from country to country.

Al used to work with Joel, however he's not affiliated with pdm. Al does his own sales and such. Like I said, Al's a good guy, I stopped and talked with him and bought a chip when I was going through denver. No I have not heard of anyone using the 2.8 chip. His chips have some pretty good features, especially if you do an aftermarket turbo kit....the chip I believe will hold timing in check since n/a cars typically have a lot more timing then turbo cars which can cause your engine to go boom when you slap a turbo on it. As for exhaust.....2 or 2.25. Being that it'sa 1.8.....I'm not quite sure. May want to ask around on nabisco to see what some of the other 1.8 people have done.