Legacy777

ful testing procedures from the fsm http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg

welcome

go get a fuel filter....if it hasn't been replaced in a while it might be clogged especially with the cleaning.

Frag gave a pretty good description. I'll try and draw something up on one of my pics I took....with some arrows and stuff. On the pass side I used a small socket against the block to move my pivot point further out from the head and allow myself some more leverage.

ehh.....little bit.....depends on how stiff the current chassis is. Also helps if you have other suspension mods as well.

I suppose there's a possibility for both sensors to be bad.....even though it's very unlikely

reset the ECU. If you were driving with a bum injector for a while, the ECU adjusted the duty cylce to compensate for that injector. When you replace it....the ECU has to relearn to compensate back to normal. It's faster simply to reset the ECU....have it go back to stock maps and relearn fully functional sensors/equipment.

see.....you can do the procedure on the site......I see no problems with that....the hard part not introducing air into the MC when connecting the lines to the MC.....it's damn near impossible....plus with fluid in there.....you make an unbelievable mess. Another method is to crack the line at the MC and pump the brake pedal and in theory any air will escape where it's cracked..... I've tried both ways, they end up making a huge mess, and don't successfully bleed the system......I've had better luck with my way.

how are you testing the tps. This is pretty much the only way to adjust the tps http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg Adjust the idle switch and the tps should be good. If you adjust the tps via the idle switch and readings are good....then you might want to look at the wiring. have you tried clearing the codes....if so...what method.

dealer won't be able to flow test anything.....they'll just say get a new Tb.....which is a better way to go....you should be able to find one used.....hell I think i've got a couple layin around.

bleeding the MC while it's off the car is near impossible.....at least IMO.

water pump was replaced at 120k.....so this round i didn't bother. The shafts are pretty hard and don't scratch too easily.....I don't think I really touched them once I new what I was doing. The drivers side was the one i was boogering up. We'll see if it starts leaking....it should be ok though.

How are you bleeding the brakes? You most likely have air still in the MC. I suggest bleeding the brakes with the car running to get more power assist to help work the air out. What I do is pump the brakes repeatedly for about 20 times....slowly and firmly.....then open the bleeder valve....close it up, and repeat the process 2-3 times depending on how much air is coming out. and make sure the MC doesn't go dry during bleeding.....

I just did the entire shabang this weekend, t-belt, oil pump seal, crank & cam seals. here's some thoughts. Removing the oil pump isn't that difficult. It was more difficult for me to see all the stupid bolts holding it in The O-ring was probably in need of being replaced, it was squished a little. The screws holding the backing plate were more then tight enough. I pulled the plate off to check the rotors, and everything looked fine. Resealed everything. Taking the oil pump off makes changing the crank seal easy. The cam seals were a pain in the butt to change. There's definitely a little secret to doing it. You need to stick a small flat head screwdriver into the seal from a very shallow angle and sort of pry against the block (using it as a pivot point) to try and get seal out. I spent a lot of time on the driver's side and spent less then a minute on the pass side once I figured out how to do it. Other then that....everything was pretty straight forward, and went all back together easily. I probably should've replaced the idler pullies and gear.....but oh well. If I was just doing the belt it would've probably only taken me 2 hours or so....I was surprised it wasn't that difficult. Here's some pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

Those are idle stop screws. they are preset from the factory and should not be touched. The idle is controlled by the computer via the idle air control valve. So depending on what problems your seeing, you may want to look at that? So....what problems are you having?

please keeps these posts in the marketplace. You can link to your thread in the marketplace if you'd like Anyone interested, please continue discussion in the marketplace http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13369 thanks

1990 was the first model year. My car was manufactured in 89...... Overseas there were probably a few legacies that were manufactured in 88. The overseas first MY's were 89.

Do you have an auto or manual? If you have an auto you can stick a breaker bar or something down the access hole on the trans. It'll get caught on the flex plate and hold the engine. pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2486.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2487.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2488.JPG

you might be able to put the part #'s into subaruparts.com and get an idea of the cost.

sweeeet site....definitely getting book marked

driving in 2wd does not put more strain on the clutch packs. It can just prematurely wear the duty c solenoid. The solenoid is designed for a pulsed input voltage. When you put the fuse in, it gives that solenoid a 12v constant. So if you leave it in for a long time, months or so.....it would probably cause some premature wear....

check the codes......like I said....sounds very very similar to my problem.

The fuse holder is there so you CAN drive the car with a spare tire or where the front and rear tires are not the same diameter. I think the thing that is uncertain is how long can you drive with the fuse in. I don't think the owner's manual gives you a limit.....however I probably wouldn't do it for months....simply because the duty c solenoid isn't designed to have a continuous voltage to it....plus you'll probably wear the rear clutch pack prematurely. 91,93,94 Legacys, what did you find wrong with the car after you had it flatbedded home? I don't think the fact you drove around with the fuse in caused the failure. the extra strain on other componants may have led to an already weak componant to fail....but if everything is working good, you can run with the fuse in......it's just how long that is debatable....

What does it do when it dies.....does it just lose power? Does it sputter? Have you checked the ECU codes. Instructions are on my site under notes & tips, engine related. I had a similar problem. It turned out to be the MAF sensor.

well.....depending on the year......you can figure it out....or by the owner's manual. right now....all I have to offer is this vin decoder. There is probably one similar for the transmissions... http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/VIN_decode.jpg I suppose you could swap stuff around in the differential, but that's a fair amount of work....you'd be better just finding a different transmission.