Legacy777

lothar, You always been in Houston? What part of town do you live in?

I decided to go with the ultra grey. It's easy to find and it's like 5 bucks It says on that sheet it's comparable, so that's good enough for me.

pics of mine http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg they may be on the other side of the steering column for some of the models

Not exactly sure what info you're looking for. All the engines in the 1990-1994 normally aspirated legacies are the same. The 2.2 was changed in 95, and I believe the 2.5 was introduced around that time too.

Have you had any mechanic tell you what the code actually is? If you go to autozone they'll read the code for you and tell you what it is. From your description of the problem, I would tend to think it's a temperature sensor issue....but that may not always be the cause. It might be some wiring that is cracked and shorts out when temp rises. I don't know of any mechanics in the austin area. If you check out the texas forums on http://www.nasioc.com there should be some people that can suggest a good mechanic in that area. They also do shop days, so if it's a simple sensor, they should be able to help. My username is the same on both boards.

You can remove the manifold and punch it out. make sure to remove the O2 sensor before you do so, not to damage it. As for the O2 functioning correctly, yes it will, readings from the O2 are done pre-catalyst, unless it's the O2 sensor behind the last cat to measure catalytic converter efficiency.

you should search for a post you posted before. I gave specs on the alternator I'm using http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/usmb/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=8612&highlight=alternator This is probably the least amount of modifications you're going to have to do, simply because most if not all the HO alternator applications are going to use the new casing design, vs. the older style. You could try taking your alternator or an older one to a shop to see if they can rewind it and increase its output.

you could try heating up the hub area.......it's not going to be good for the bearings.......but sometimes heat is the only way. Also may want to find some PB Blaster penetrating oil. It's good stuff.

yeah I figured that's why you were asking about the filter. You can buy extra fuel line so you can pretty much mount anything in there. I wouldn't think the chevy one wouldn't be able to flow as much....may need more frequent replacing....

let me think about this and refer it to one of the electrical gurus on the legacycentral bbs.

I bought my magnecor's a long while ago, but expect to spend around $60 or so for them. Good plug wires tend to be 100% silicone and have good windings or such inside. I really couldn't give you any specifics as I'm not too sure.....but i do know magnecor's are good wires. I used the correct filter, but yeah you could pretty much use anything you want I suppose.

yeah I have a HO alternator. Cheap solution for high idle controller. Stick a feeler gauge or penny for that matter in between the idle stop and throttle. Instant high idle.

the first gen legacies, n/a & turbo are all pretty damn reliable. check out http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org for more info on mileage.

I'd look at the IAC valve. I think your engine may have the valve on the throttle body.....if so, you can remove it pretty easily and clean in there and the valve plunger with some brake cleaner.

not sure bill, however you may want to ask on http://www.subaru-svx.net

yeah they should fit.

hehe....yeah I made that up on the balcony of my old apt. There were a few stray marks on the concrete when I left Yeah I think the scorpion kit would be pretty sweet. If I didn't have my student loans, I'd probably be going for the new turbo legacy as well. No worries about the package, just send me the stuff when you get a chance. My HDD crashed on my laptop last week too....not cool.

It "should" work. You just need to make sure the final drive ratios are the same between years.

the part number on the sti rubber mount may be the same as the early legacy rubber mount....however they are most definitely not made with the same rubber. I've had both in my hand.

IMO the early legacies are easier to work on then the 80's style subarus

just figured I'd put this in the thread....so others can see and benefit from the info The bracket is the part that actually bolts to the spindle/hub. The WRX calipers have guide pins. Both will unbolt from the caliper bracket. However to put them on, I typically just remove one of them. Slide the caliper onto the one guide pin and then down over the pads, and install the other guide pin and bolt it up to the bracket....and your good to go. Image looks like it has all the parts. I don't think you need to swap brake lines though, the ones on your car should work. You may want to look into upgrading to SS braided lines. As for pictures....you're in luck....I'm a camera whore when it comes to my car (note: not all of the pics are of the front calipers) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakes/paintedcalipers00.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakes/paintedcalipers01.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakes/paintedcalipers02.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakes/paintedcalipers03.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakes/paintedcalipers04.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakes/paintedcalipers05.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/brakes/paintedcalipers06.jpg You're also in luck because I have a few more pics of the calipers when I got them and laid them all out http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/wrxbrakes/ and a few more random brake pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/caliperboot1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/caliperboot2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/caliperpaintedhang1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/caliperpaintedhang2.jpg if you have any more questions, let me know. The WRX brake swap is a good swap....for me it messed with the bias a little too much. I am picking up some larger diameter rotors for the rear....which should help on top of the other stuff I've done to help alleviate the bias problems.

I finally got a hold of someone at a few dealerships yesterday and they confirmed what theotherskip posted.... three bond part # 004403007 BTW....excellent info in that scan....I think I'll be swiping it

you will typically get some oil seapage from the right rear cam o-ring, oil filler o-ring, and the valve cover gasket bolt grommets. Very simple, easy, and cheap to replace. Those are the big oil leaker spots.....so if you see oil around those spots, I wouldn't be too worried

ok....I do have a question about the sealant of the oil pump. I've been trying to get my hands on the three bond or whatever subaru uses. I don't think the ultra grey stuff is anerobic. I have some stuff that is.....but I'm not sure if it's exactly what I want. The damn sealant is holding me up from doing the t-belt.

I needed the caliper brackets, caliper, rotors, & brakes from the WRX. The stock proportioning valve is not adjustable, and most if not all aftermarket valves will not work because subaru uses a diagonal braking circuit for redundancy. What I did was use the prop valve for a legacy wagon. It bumped the split point about 100 psi, which gave me slightly more rear brake torque when at or above the split point. I personally wouldn't recommend you mess with the proportioning valve, since some of the other subaru valves have completely different split points and reducing ratios......which could cause some serious braking problems. The MC I am using is a 1 1/16" bore 4-port MC from a non-abs SVX. The 1" bore MC had too much pedal travel due to the increase in volume needed by the larger calipers. Pretty much all ABS equipped legacies have a 1 1/16" bore MC. It is however a 2-port vs. 4-port MC since the lines branch off at the abs pump.