Legacy777

mine sorta does that....unfortunately i haven't really figured it out since it's random.

Personally.....I wouldn't drive the thing or even let the engine run if the light was coming on at idle. More then likely the o-ring on the oil pump needs to be replaced.....probably a good idea to check the pressure with a gauge before tearing into things.

bbs.legacycentral.org feel free to check out my site as well for info on what I've done.

why not ask on the bbs where some of the people may know.

I don't know what the 2.0 heads are like. The 2.2 heads will give you higher compression ratio. The older style 2.2 heads are dual exhaust ports like the 2.5, however they have smaller valves. The newer 2.2's with the single exhaust port have the same size valves as the 2.5. Personally i think the larger valves will give you more bang for your buck then the dual exhaust ports. Especially if you do some work on the heads to port/polish them.

There's two main chips out there for subarus. The torque chip 2 http://www.torquechip.com and the proECM http://www.subaruplanet.com The gains you'll see are questionable and vary by user. I have used the torque 2 chip on my car and am friends with the developer, however I just didn't care for the results on my car. May have been the fact my car uses an older computer.....not sure.

there are a couple threads in the exhaust forum on http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org CES makes a complete system I believe.....not sure exactly what else is out there, but you should get some help from the bbs.

frag, for obd2....you probably won't have any difference or too many differences. I don't really know......only dealt with the select monitor for OBD1.

Two things cause that brake light to come on. The little sensor in the brake fluid resevoir. If the float in there sticks, you might see some problems or if you have low fluid...which doesn't sound like it. The other reason the light comes on is when you engage the parking brake. It's possible the cable is sticking or something like that....however I would think the on/off switch is inside the cabin and based off of what position the lever is at.....however that may not be right. Lastly....you may have an electrical issue some where.

The reason the tcu i/o page says to use the ac function on the meter is because it should be an oscilatory signal. You really can't just hook up to the select monitor pins. The ECU/TCU sends information about various sensors in a propriatary select monitor protocol. The select monitor and specific cartridge must be used to decode the incoming information so it can be displayed as useful information.......sorry.

I'll have to take a look at the pcv diagram.......I think I remember it acting different depending on how much vacuum you have or throttle position.

It's standard procedure to replace the receiver/dryer. They can get contaminated over time as well. if you change refrigerants....then you defintely want to change it. If I swap things again, I'll have to get it vacuumed out. I have a buddy at a shop, so he really doesn't charge me much to do it. I suppose I could get a pump, but by the time I get gauges & a pump.....I could have let him do it several times.

ehh....it won't fix how the pcv system works. It's just that way... Only thing you can do is put a catch can from all the breather vents before they go back into the intake track. Other then that....keeping the oil from the breathers is a lost cause.

the pcv valve dumps a misty oil blow by back into the intake.....and I guess just normal operation causes them to get gunked up.

waste gate releases pressure yes. I believe stock is like 8....not positive though. check out http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org for all the answers to your questions.

this is the adapter base that goes out http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg

should be one on the driver's door jam plate.... something like 07/89 it's stamped into the aluminum plate....not colored lettering.

the early ej22's made 130hp & 135 ft/lbs of torque. I could get you exact rpms if really interested....

Pat, I'd say it's pretty normal.

Cool, thanks redlance.....may have to try that if I open the system up again.

Sounds like you got a turbo legacy/liberty radiator. Those radiators had a separate coolant expansion tank that was mounted up behind the manifold. This was the highest point of the cooling system, and it also helped with cooling of the turbo. As coolant surrounding the turbo heated, it would rise to the top where that tank is, and cooler coolant would fill it's place....basically creating convection currents to help cool the turbo off after shutdown, which keeps the oil from caking up or burning off the bearings. You really should have something similar, or at least have a coolant expansion tank some place. Check out http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org I'm sure someone can give you some more info. Also, more in your neck of the woods. http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/

I've got the same o-ring kit, but I didn't know if there was a specific one for the a/c system.

Not sure if this is the correct model you're looking for.....but that's about all I got http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/EJ20G_ECU.pdf

where'd you get your o-ring kit? Was it a generic one, or specific to your ac system? I need to replace some of the seals on mine, and on the used compressor I put in the shaft seal is leaking......so I may have to swap compressors again.

I'd say go with AWD, yeah you can put an RS hood on the normal models. Two places I'd recommend you check out are http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org & http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums