Legacy777

If it's like the legacy, you need to remove the glove box, and the cross-brace that holds it in. You should then see the motor. There's three screws holding it in. You need to remove those and the tube that connects to the motor. You may need to remove some of the metal bracketry in there to get it out....or at least I did. That should get you at that area where the motor and blower is. If they nested real bad, it wouldn't be a bad idea to take the evap box out. You'll have to discharge the a/c system.....but depending on how much of mess they left in there.....I'll let you decide. I have pics of mine....it was a mess http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/acevap/

At night, take a water mist bottle and spray it around the electrical stuff, coil pack, wires, wiring harness and see if you see any arcs. may want to try dielectric grease on the plug wires.

You may not want to put a resistor in there. If the ECU sees the resistance is good, and tries to send signals to it, and it doesn't respond....it may cause other issues..... The relay dropping when ignition goes off is a good idea. To elaborate. I think the cruise type thing is setup in the switch, purely an electrical switch vs. mechanical/toggle. Doing something like this would reset the AWD circuit and leave it untouched when power is cut. I'd probably go this route. You should be able to find a generic push button electric switch somewhere. Yeah, you should be able to get at those duty solenoids pretty easily. I don't remember if you even have to drop the valve body....been too long since I had mine out.

No mine isn't a turbo.....at least yet anyway... yeah jeeps are hunks of junk.....you couldn't give one to me. I worked at a dealership for a summer.....they had so many things wrong with them. Check out those other two boards I posted. Someone on there may have the wiring diagram information you're looking for.

what's the battery like? Has it been replaced recently? Might be there's just not enough juice when it's really cold to make the starter fully engage.

neil, please keep all replies in the original thread, it's ok to bump it to the top, but try not to post duplicates. I'll close this one, so all discussion is in your orig thread. See my reply in your orig thread. Thanks

I suggest buying/replacing all four at once and not just the fronts. You can severely through off the handling characteristics of the car by only replacing the front or the rear. I speak from experience. Yes replacing the worn fronts will help, but replacing all of them will give a much more balanced setup. As for the cartridge vs. whole setup......It wouldn't be that much cheaper for just the cartridge. You should be able to get GR2's (which i highly recommend) for about $70 a strut....

Neil, Couple places you may want to check out http://www.bbs.legacycentral.org & http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums As for your question, about the only thing you need to do when converting the wiring/computers from auto to manual mode is take care of the MT/AT identification pin. On some of the US models, if the ECU has +5v to that pin, the ECU runs in a "manual trans" mode if you will. Only thing else you'd need to wire up is swap the starter interlock with the clutch kill......or you could just bypass all of them....it's up to you. here's some ECU pinouts for the US spec legacy http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/ECU_I-O_page3.jpg

O2 sensor values should swing from 0-1 volt, 0.1-0.9 are prob the most common ranges you'll see. The only time you should really see it at a fixed value or relatively fixed is if you are accelerating, or if the sensor is not warmed up. Under full throttle acceleration I get around 0.7-0.8 volts. Which does indicate I'm running rich, but that's a typical subaru trait, especially at full throttle.

yeah....replace temp sensor....it was like 20 bucks from http://www.newsubaru.com

I've been away....but you guys seem to have things under control. Everything I've read that you've guys posted is correct in the operation of the duty c solenoid.

Read some info on Daniel Stern's site about lighting, bulbs, etc. http://lighting.mbz.org/ Some may not agree with him, but he is very reputable and knows his stuff.

that center bulge is the second cat.....not a resonator.....assuming your exhaust is like the US models. If not....then I'm not sure what to say....... a resonator is pretty much just an open area with a few slats or something to shift the sound waves around.

just curious.....what is this for.....?

the 90 & 91 MY's the auto belts came standard.....I don't even know if you could get them in the states without the mad mice. I think the 92-94's it might have been an option....

Yes it has two speed sensors. Speed sensor 1 is in the tail shaft of the transmission. It reads the output speed of the rear wheels/driveshaft. Speed sensor 2 is in the combination meter in the dash, which measures speed from the front diff, and also displays speed on the speedo. The tcu, then uses both of those readings to determine how to adjust the AWD transfer.

People have played around with this before. Simply opening the circuit on the duty c solenoid will force 50/50 split all the time. There's been talk about it not being the best for the duty c solenoid, but if it's occasional and on snow, I wouldn't be too concerned. I'd just find the line for the duty c solenoid and wire a switch in line or a relay. I'd probably go with the relay route so the switch (if lighted) doesn't interfer with the signal.

Pull fuse 14 it's in the fuse panel under the dash on the driver's side. It's labeled EGI/TCU. Pull that fuse for 15-30 min. That will clear both ECU & TCU. here's fuse box diagram http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/119.jpg and fuse listings http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans/118.jpg

thanks guys :-)

Look at you mr. thesaurus

Yes, that could be fouling things up. The VSS2 is in the dash, and controls the speedo, etc. I had the base cable from the tranny go on mine, so no speedo. Without a speedo reading the ECU does not know when to engage the lockup on the torque converter. I had very similar issues on mine. Clear the ECU & TCU and see what happens.

Sounds like a possible issue with the torque converter lock up solenoid. How many miles are on the car/tranny? Honestly, once these trannys reach a certain point.....they're just going to have issues....not much you can do about it, other then get a lower mileage one, or rebuild the current one.

So you're saying it's the axle that's the problem?

here's the knock sensor http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG You can get at it relatively easily

nope