Legacy777

Because subaru uses a two part cat......if they replaced the cat improperly that could be the cause. Does the CEL blink all the time even when the diagnostic connectors aren't plugged in? You may want to check out my site for more info on how to pull any codes.

You need to test the knock sensor......if it's out of spec, it would be the cause or one of the causes for your CEL.

You guys aren't really giving any solution to the problem....you're trying to fix the symptom. i hope I don't come across as an rump roast....not in the best of moods right now. NOx is high heat, and is typically caused when the mixture goes lean. The 90-94 legacies do not have an EGR valve. These motors also tend to run pig rich.....so to fail on a NOx test is a huge indicator something is not right with the engine or catalytic converter. Where did you fail the NOx test.....at idle or higher rpm? They didn't load test your car because it's AWD correct? I would check for a vacuum leak of some sorts, and I would also be curious to know the condition of the cat converter. If you pull the plugs out....what do they look like? If they look good and everything's normal......I'd really start wondering about the cat converter. Subaru uses a two stage cat converter. The first converter handles reduction stages of the chemical reaction and then the second handles the oxidation stage. I'm pretty sure that's the right way.

they started in 1990 with the introduction of the legacy. it went through some revisions/changes in 95 I believe, and think they ended it a little while ago. the boys on nasioc would probably know when it ended.

may want to also check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org A lot of info on the first gen legacy

here's some various pics of the interior of my legacy as well inside of the door, which may help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/stereorewire/

yeah....that's jason's (aka boostjunkie) on www.bbs.legacycentral.org The car unfortunately isn't in his possession any more.......was in a wreck.....I believe one of the other board members picked it up to try and fix it....

why not just switch the wiring harness from the intake manifold? It's pretty simple to take off. I'll have to look at the diagrams again.....I'm beat now....just got done cleaning the house.....

I think first you should be asking yourself, why do you need performance injectors. Unless you have a turbo, there's really no need to get higher flowing injectors....especially since the stock ECU isn't tuned for them. You can get your stock ones balanced & blue-printed with improve spray pattern and even out the flow characteristics between them www.rceng.com has a good rep....they did the ones I have in my car. BTW....do you have a MT or AT. Depending on the trans setup....you will have different injector types.

to be quite honest with you.....I've looked at those diagrams and I got to be looking at things wrong....or incorrectly. I think I see where the connectors are....but don't know how they're referenced to the fold out pages where they show where the connector is. Even on the 90 FSM's......it really didn't show me anything.....granted I may not be looking at things correctly? Got a quick lesson on how I should be looking at these electrical diagrams.......

would help if i typed it right.....huh works now

I'm assuming the knock sensor is in the same vicinity for the newer engines....if so I've got various engine pics, including knock sensor http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

yes.....dealer only......any subaru dealer should have it... www.subaruparts.com has them

See.....the marks on my belt never lined up with the marks on the pullies either. I think it really doesn't matter......you can either line up the marks on the cams & crank......or just put the belt on and make sure that the marks on the timing belt match before and after. I ended up lining up the cams & crank and put the belt on that way...... I wonder if subaru techs are trained to do it another way?

I didn't get a chance to look at the fsm for the 90 last night......I'll try and do that when I get home today from work. I really wonder why the 90 has it, if in the 92 fsm it says it's for a turbo car.....unless it's just dummy wiring that goes nowhere.

The stock 15 or 16" subie wheels have an offset around +53-55mm or so. If you plus size, you typically want a slightly less offset then stock, so 55 in a 17 might be too much and rub.

I did a little more work then just t-belt.....so I had some extra tools.....mainly the camshaft holder tool. The t-belt alone is pretty straight forward. The oddball things you may need is a big socket for the crank pulley. I would highly recommend you have a vice to recompress the tensioner.....or buy a new one. It needs to be compressed very slowly, and short of a vice.....it's near to impossible to compress it. The other hiccup which can sometimes happen is keeping the motor from moving while you're trying to loosen the crank pulley. If you have a MT. Have someone get in the car, put it in 5th, and step on the brakes while you loosen the pulley. If you have an auto, there is an access hole on the bell housing, which you can stick a pry bar or breaker bar in there to catch the back side of the flex plate. here's pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2486.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2487.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2488.JPG That's pretty much it. Oh....just a clarification.....you pretty much NEED to take the radiator fans out to get enough room. I was referring to the radiator itself....some people opt to take it out.......I didn't think it was necessary.

can you give me the fig number you're looking at, or which page......so I can see what you're looking at? I can then try and compare that info to the 90 fsm. edit: Ok....I think I know which one's you're talking about. The connectors right behind the battery....right? I guess we need to figure out what goes through E3.......

www.subaruparts.com is another decent one. Cheap prices and no issues....as long as the part is in stock. If you get a yellow dot.....I'd try and go with another online place or dealer.

If it's like my 90 legacy, I believe there is a cable, or something attaching it. I tried to get mine off, but after almost losing a screw & springs coming out, I just decided to put it back together.

Thanks Matt

Well i spent sunday and monday rewiring the stereo. I pretty much gutted the entire interior.....put down new rca's and ran speaker wire. It was a little bit of a pain running new speaker wire in the doors through the rubber boots already there. It's all back together.....sounds really good. I also fixed the center console box.....the hinges were busted. I re-revitted some new hinges on from another box....since mine already had my adjustable gain control for the sub on it. I also found that the floor pan in the rear driver's corner had been damaged.....some how something hit it, and put a nice little hole in it. I gooped it up with silicone pretty good. I'll probably do the same to the outside.......it was a little disturbing to see light from inside the cabin. Here's some pics of the ordeal http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/stereorewire/

can't find it....as in not being able to find it on the car.....or not being able to find the kit # pic of the filter http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/transfilter.jpg part # 31099AA091

Are the lines leaking where they go into the unit? Or is the unit itself leaking somewhere? Short answer.....there really is no way to bypass the unit. It handles splitting the two lines from the MC into four lines to each wheel. You may want to try and find a used unit.....if you do....be aware there are different models for the abs units.

easily......no....