Legacy777

You may want to try checking the codes for the tranny.....see if anything is throwing an electrical code http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html

You can try taking the belt off the pump. Then spin the pump by hand. If it's loose, or you can feel it grind, it needs to be replaced. Yeah you can try a junkyard for a pump, or a local parts store may have one cheaper.

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As others have mentioned......is the check engine light on? What maintenance have you done, plugs, wires, filters, etc?

First step is to clear the codes. Connect both the green & black connectors together. You're supposed to drive the car up to a certain speed, but you may not have to. That or you can try connecting just the green connector and see if it'll start in d-check mode.

you're goin to need a few more things. One big thing you need to check is that the final drive ratio is the same as your car, so when you put it in, the rear diff and the front don't fight each other. Dave did a writeup on his swap. His site has been down, but you can keep trying www.legacycentral.org.

clear the codes, and then check again to see what codes come up again.

there's a lot more then 500 of these around. The numbers from subaru and floating around are wrong. As for your issue. I'd say you have a sticking IAC valve. Take the tube off from the intake and spray some brake cleaner down in there. Leave it sit, then repeat once or twice more. Reconnect tube to intake and take for a drive. If you want to get real anal, you can remove the IAC valve from the intake to clean it.

I've used clay bars, and honestly, don't care for them. They make more of a mess then they help, and I've got some polishing compounds that leave the surface much smoother. Clay bars are however pretty decent in removing overspray though.

may want to ask someone on here http://www.rslibertyclub.org/forums/ Granted it's geared more towards the first gen liberty/legacy, but they may have a better idea.

What codes have come up? Have you tried to clear them and see what comes back? Have you run car in D-check mode? What trans computer codes are there? I've got all the info on my site how to check codes, and use d-check, if you don't already know.

zymol japon. It's about 30 bucks. You can get it at www.emmonscoachworks.com It's not the easiest to put on, and once or twice a year, you should apply zymol's HD Cleanse on the surface. This is not the same zymol you can get at a parts store, and like I mentioned....it's not exactly the easiest or shortest wax job you'll do. The results however are pretty amazing. Here's a few pics of my car after waxing http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/zymol http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legacyzymol

you should be able to remove the air susp computer to get rid of the idiot light.....and/or pull the fuse.

Yes it can be switched over, and I'd suggest going that route, rather then trying to fix it. Your best bet is to go to a junkyard and find a similar vintage legacy and get all four struts & springs with top mounts so you have all the parts. Then buy some new struts, KYB GR2's would be the way to go. Put the new struts & old springs and top mounts together. Then just swap everything out. I believe there is a thread that has some detailed info on the swap process. Not sure about total cost. But I would think you could get the junkyard stuff for under 100 bucks. Struts would probably cost you under 300. If you do all the work yourself, you should be able to do it for around 400, and I would think definitely under 500.

Yup, that's right.

Just to clarify......what marks are you using to align the cam sprockets & crank gear? The cam sprockets should be aligned with the plastic covers. The crank gear should be aligned to the mark on the oil pump. Here are pics of my t-belt job.....they may be able to help see if you have your aligment off http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/

the a/c comp will cycle on & off, and is probably causing what your feeling. It's normal.

what doesn't work.....the heater & a/c or the blower fan? The blower fan has a resistor pack that is installed in the evaporator box, right behind the glove box. If you remove the wiring from the resistor pack the blower fan should only work on high speed. If the car is warmed up and the fan doesn't work.....and then you remove the connector from the resistor pack and the fan works on high speed....then you simply have a problem with the resistor pack. If it still doesn't work, even on high speed, I'd suggest testing the leads going to the motor to make sure you have proper power. If everything's good.....I'd say the blower motor is bad.

Actually dashton it's the other way around. Putting the fuse in the fwd holder supplies +12v to the duty c solenoid which causes it to remain fully open, and the fluid to bypass the rear awd system. M6, as long as the solenoid works....putting the fuse in should eliminate the binding. If the duty c solenoid is totally shot....putting the fuse in won't make a difference. It's a good way to do some diagnostic work yourself. here's some fsm scans & diagrams that may be of use understanding everything. http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg As for the leaky valve covers.....yeah that seems awfully expensive.

Clear the codes and then try to read them again.you may want to run the d-check mode too.

The 1990-1994 legacies do not have an egr valve. You can go to my site, notes & tips, engine related, and read the instructions on how to pull the codes. That will tell you exactly what is wrong. Once you get the codes out, post back, and we can help troubleshoot.

here are some pics of the timing belt job I did.....there are pics of the timing marks for the crank gear and such that might help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

How are you tighten the belt. You basically need to loosen the bolt on the pulley.....and then use the long bolt to tension things up. Then tighten down the bolt on the pulley.

I wouldn't say it's not uncommon for the screws on the oil pump backing plate to be loose. I've heard quite a few people talk about it. Mine however were not loose.....and were pretty tight. So....not sure why that was the case....

If the code points to a limit switch, I would start there, maybe test the switch, make sure it's ok.