Legacy777

it's the connector color. If it's gray, it's the old connector. If it's white, it's the new one.

they updated the knock sensor. You can get a new one for about 30 bucks

They'll fit just fine. I don't know if there's any issues as far as power and such is concerned.

I have some info scanned. You can take a look at it on my server. There isn't much different between the 92 fsm and the 93 & 94 model years. http://main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/

do a search....others have tried this....it doesn't save much on fuel. Also, as thawa mentioned, you're sending 12v constant to the duty c solenoid. It's meant to see a pulsed signal. It's going to wear out much quicker in that scenario.

welcome.

I'll do one better....give you the factory spec info http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/wheel_arch_meas_1990.jpg

Thawa is correct....period...end of story. Unless it has this sticker, it's not LSD! http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyswapparts/DCP_3010.JPG As for the ratio, it came in 3.90 only. You can find one from the imprezas in 4.111. The svx had 3.545 ratio....so it's really not worth while unless you swap in a wrx tranny with the 1.1:1 stepper ratio. You can still find them around, however they are a little rare. You just need to do some hunting. The old gen 80's subarus have them as well in some models. So you may want to look there as well. I'm closing this thread. The question has been answered several times now. If you have another question, or want to see if anyone has a LSD for sale, please start a new thread.

Look on the diff. It will have a sticker with the final drive ratio and if it's a LSD

I don't know if he meant by non-slip meaning lsd or not. But I can tell you for sure that out of all the first gen legacies, 1990-1994, including turbo models, the 1991 turbo was the only one to get a LSD rear diff.

You're not really going to gain any hp from this....however throttle response will be better. If you live in colder climates, there is a possibility of the TB icing over if given the right temp and humidity.....it'd be pretty rare, however possible.

all first gen legacies had an open rear diff. The 91 turbo legacy was the only year that had a LSD in the rear.

If the duty c solenoid is functioning, stick a fuse in the FWD holder. This will cause all line pressure to bypass the clutch plates. If the duty c solenoid is not operational, putting the fuse in won't do anything. About removing the driveshaft. I suppose you could do that....but it's going to play hell with your TCU and shifting. I'm not sure what the rear output shaft will do in terms of rotating and speed difference between the front.

I don't think it has to do with being replaced. I do know the later first gen legacies, 92+ did not have the diagnostic O2 light on the ECU, so it's very possible they did the same for the abs computer as well.

Have you tested the injectors or the wiring on the injectors? With subaru's wasted spark ignition system, you can't have one side working and the other not working. Unless your spark plug wires are toasted.

The question was asking about the 92 legacy....so I was mainly referring to the first gen legacies.

All you can do is give it a shot and see

they are 100% non-interference

The intake gasket is going to be a little tough to diagnose. I say this because mine were going. I tried starting fluid and everything to see if engine would rev up. Couldn't get it to do anything. So either I didn't have a leak, or it never showed it's face. The oil trick would be interested to see if it works.

Yup....your compressor seized. Mine did this a few months ago. You can take off the rear belt....or just not turn on the a/c and you should be fine. The best solution would be to disconnect the electrical connector from the compressor. that way the clutch won't engage if you accidently hit the a/c or defrost buttons.

100% duty of the duty c solenoid will give you zero torque to the rear wheels. 0% duty will give you full line pressure to the rear clutch plack, and essentially 50/50 torque split. The towed with all four wheels off the ground is due to the automatic and it having AWD. You can tow a MT AWD car with all four wheels on the ground for a short distance. With the way the automatic transmission is designed, you won't be able to convert it to RWD. The RWD comes from an extension housing on the rear of the transmission that is fed transmission line pressure through the duty c solenoid to a set of clutch packs. Check out these scans for more detailed info http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg The rear diff can handle the power....the clutch packs are what can't handle it. the final drive ratio on the n/a legacies 90-91 MT's & AT's are 4.111. The final drive ratio on the n/a legacies 92-94 AT's are 3.900. n/a legacies 92-94 MT's are 4.111. turbo legacies 91-94 are 3.900.

when you pull the plugs on the side that aren't "firing" supposedly....are they wet with fuel? Have you tried pulling the ecu codes? instructions to get the codes are on my site. Due to the wasted spark ignition....it's not really possible for one entire side of the engine not to have spark since the front bank of cylinders utilize the same coil. Same goes for the rear...they share the same coil.

For the 360 lock....yeah you need a new lock cylinder. It's a pretty common failure point. If you want to retain the same key, yeah you'll have to have it rekeyed. dealer is the only place I know for a lock cylinder. There are two nuts that hold on the door handle. The handle has two studs that stick out the back that these two nuts bolt onto. To remove the door panel, take the three screws off around the speaker trim. Pop the little black plastic plug thing out at the top of the door handle. Unscrew the screw. Pop the little plastic piece off the door panel...just below the arm rest portion. Unscrew the screw. Next go around the edge of the door panel and pop the little plastic pieces off. To remove the door panel, pull up and slide back at the same time. You need to unhook the front of the door panel to slide it back so you can pull it up. It's easier to do this with the window down. Once you get it off, roll the window back up, and then unplug the electrical connector from the door panel. Peel back the plastic. There's two nuts as I mentioned, holding the handle, and two rods attached via little plastic clips. Just unsnap them and pull the rods out of their sockets. You can then remove the door handle. I'd suggest not driving around while you have the door handle apart. My mom put down the window when I had to replace mine, and ended up bending the one rod and popping it out of its lower socket....unbelievable pain to get back in. When you put everything back together....hook up the electrical connector and roll the window down...it makes things easier.

Thanks guys yeah I wired in the clutch switch, and it does disengage the cruise. I did a little more looking into the cruise thing. If I hadn't switched the cruise relays, the AT cruise computer would have worked. The relay for the MT is normally open. The relay for the AT is normally closed, and the computers are setup for each different relay. I'll let everyone know when I get done with the in depth write-up.

Finished the AWD & 5MT swap yesterday! Took a drive last night. It's quite different. The car handles really well, not sure if it was bushings or the struts or a combination, but it definitely handles much better. I worked out a few issues with the cruise today, had to swap computers, and adjust the clutch pedal clevis pin. Probably best to check out the page I've got setup for pics and info....then me blabbing on http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/trannyswap.html I'm planning on writing up a pretty detailed list/instructions/info on the swap. I'll post when I finish it.