Legacy777

running cooler thermostats really don't do you any difference. Look at what a thermostat does. It restricts flow to the radiator to help the car warm up faster. After temp has reached what it should, the thermostat opens....and pretty much stays open for normal operating of the engine. I don't think temps would get "too" cold for it to close back up partially. So let's look at what happens when you run a colder thermostat. It opens sooner.....engine doesn't reach NOT as soon. mileage and efficiency will drop. If you have a thermostat that doesn't open as much....I would think that would cause temps to elevate above what they normally are. Bottom line, the ECU wants the temp of the engine to be in the 180-200 range. fans kick in at 200, or very close to it. You need to modify the ECU or the coolant temp sensor if you really want the car to run "cooler" But if you run cooler, you're not going to be running as efficiently. The colder spark plug thing is the same way. A buddy with a 2.5 RS put a colder plug in thinking it would help since he had some "mods" the mods were simple bolt on......his car ran like poop and gas mileage sucked. We put the right plugs in....car ran much better.

they really didnt' need to replace the condensor Did they flush the system at all when they converted it? What type of oil did they use? Did it ever blow cold air?

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG It's the big one (brown connector) btw that pic is on the coolant runner, under the pass side of the intake manifold

yeah the retro fit kit is cheap as hell....the filter itself is insane....just buy the kit

combination meter is the thing where your speedo and gauges are.....aka gauge cluster.

http://techinfo.subaru.com

have you checked the codes? But yeah...sort of sounds like a coolant temp sensor.

there is no filter on the older cars. Only an internal screen, which is what's shown in the pic. There's no reason to change that, unless your tranny blew up and spewed metal shavings all through it. On the first gen legacies, there was an add-on filter kit. Not sure if the imprezas had something similar

So you're saying that in 150,000 miles you've never changed the automatic transmission fluid? I'd say you're pretty lucky to just now getting the problems you're describing. First thing I'd do is change the tranny fluid.

The vehicle speed sensor being out could cause some weird stuff to happen.....not sure if would cause stalling, but I'd suggest clearing the codes and go from there....to see if anything else comes back.

well the combination meter has the speed sensor in it......so yeah it's fairly important......but to control all that other stuff too....wow.

Hey Michael! Long time no see. So how's everything on your end? I'm finalizing all the crap from my AWD & 5MT swap. I'm going to start the tear down of the donor car this weekend. Should be a fun and time consuming project

http://techinfo.subaru.com

the holes should be there, as the impreza was based off the legacy. Really couldn't tell you about the gas tank though. You may want to check the owner's manual if you have them for gas tank capacities for the AWD models. If they're the same....they should fit. If you cut the driveline, make sure to have it rebalanced.

excellent info/fsm scans avk!

everything should bolt up fine. Only questionable thing is driveshaft length. I'm not 100% sure about it. Yes you will need to swap the gas tank as well......and you might as well just swap the whole rear subframe.

hmmmm that's very weird. Check the ECU codes. Since the light has come on, a code has been stored. No point in trying to guess the problem.

Yeah the codes should be the same for the OBD1 legacies and imprezas. and yeah I'd say the hard to start issues you're having are synonymous with the coolant temp sensor. Let us know if that fixes the problem

yeah sti tranny mount will work. Pretty much all the 5spd manual trannies use the same mount. sti engine mounts will work as well.

Have you put it up on jack stands or ramps and gone under there and tried to wiggle stuff around? Short of that.....not really sure.

Are all the suspension components stock? Might be an anti-sway bar, or a bushing on an endlink sticking.

you can get info on how to check the codes on my site.

If it only works on high, i'd say it's the resistor pack. Pull the glove box out, and you should see the resistor pack there. Check the wiring and see if you can get a used one to swap in to verify that's the problem.

I had a similar issue with my 90 where it would stall out on me. It did this intermittantly for about a year. Finally traced it down to the MAF sensor. When you replaced the MAF sensor, did you get a new one, or used one? Is your car MT or AT? I'd start with all the connections on the sensors. Only sensors i could think of that might cause this would be the crank/cam sensors. Or possibly something electrical. Something you might want to try. At night in a dark place, open the hood and use a spray bottle and spray a fine mist over the engine, coil pack, sensors, and see if you can get the engine to faulter. Make sure to take off the plastic engine cover while you spray.

subaruparts.com is fine for normal stuff that is in stock. They have good prices and such. However if you're ordering stuff that isn't in stock, they're not the best.....or as you have found...