Legacy777

I'm assuming you have an automatic? If so your experiencing binding in the AWD system of the transmission. First thing I always suggest is to replace the transmission fluid. If that doesn't help, we can go from there on suggestions. Do a search on torque bind and you'll find some more information.

Just drain the front differential, and put the appropriate gear oil back in. Pretty sure you need 80w90 GL5 oil. If you didn't put anything in the transmission, you should be ok with that. Just curious....how are you checking the level of the automatic transmission?

First thing I'd suggest is replace the CEL bulb. You could be spitting in the wind and going a completely wrong direction. If the ECU can give you some info on where to look, why not use it. My suggestion would be to check your MAF sensor. I had a very intermittant problem for over a year where I'd be driving along on the freeway and the car would just lose power. I'd put it in neutral and rev the engine to bring it back. Most of the time that would work. Some times it didn't. Also if I was just driving around town or low rpms, the car would usually just stall.

Have you had the codes pulled to see what code the ECU was actually throwing? It might be a barometric sensor....but I'd have the codes pulled to check. Autozone will do it for free.

Yeah not sure how the wiring will compare to the loyales, you'll have to let me know.

unplug the O2 sensor, start the car up and see what happens.

change the tranny fluid first......see if it gets better.

Sounds like you've got some major issues with the tranny.

75w90 GL5 gear oil. You have to fill the tranny through the dipstick.

Hey Matt, I bought a 95 nissan pickup. I've actually been driving it around town more then the legacy. Yeah I like the results.....there's a few issues I'm still working on, but it's nice

I speak from my experiences with the "import scene" here and around houston. It's just a different crowd compared to someone that would drive a LGT. For people in their mid 20's, the WRX will still more then likely be a more popular car. It's cheaper for one, and more modable.

Thanks cookie. Yeah it's nice to everything done.

The swap's done, and I finally got everything written up. Let me know what you think http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

I'm sorry, but the WRX is FAR from obsolete. The LGT is a different car that fits a different market.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

You may want to ask on www.nasioc.com

The legacy is a far more refined car with some good power. The WRX is a boy racer car IMO. Give it some time, and there will be aftermarket stuff for the legacy to improve upon the factory's setup.

Yeah....it's seemless. The automatic AWD systems are faster in reacting then the manuals.

you'll be fine

The turbo 5spds have 3.90 ratio, and the n/a 5spd have 4.111 ratio. The turbo 5spds also have a hydraulic type clutch with a pull style clutch vs. the n/a legacy that has a push style clutch that is cable operated. The turbo's gears are supposed to be shot peened for added strength.

The thing you need to remember is that the transmission uses this gear oil as well as the differential gears. Each requires a different set of needs for lubrication. If you put the 75w140 in there, shifting will probably become more difficult since the gear oil is thicker. I'd stick with what the manufacturer recommends.

I ran the Redline D4 ATF for a little while. I can't say it made my tranny any better, but it probably didn't break down as easily. It's a shame because I probably got less then 8,000 miles out of that fluid before I did a tranny swap.

Actually....you're going to run into a few issues with the electrical. The 90-91 MT's & AT's had different injectors, MAF's, coil packs, ignitor, and IAC valves. The main reason being is that the AT's have a JECS ECU, while the MT's have a Hitachi ECU. Here's what "I" would do. Take the ECU out of the 90 legacy, and swap it into the 91. You'll need to make sure you swap the AT MAF & ignitor over to the new setup. Also, the "diamond" coil pack from the MT cars tend to handle a little more power, so I'd keep the diamond coil pack and put it on the AT motor. If you do all that, you "should" be fine. The ECU's wiring has an AT/MT identifier pin. Depending or not if this pin is grounded, it tells the ECU that it's an AT or MT. So the wiring should be good....and you'll just have to plug in the 90 ECU. I have a technical packet for the 90 legacy. It lists the differences in sensors. I'll verify that the sensors I listed are the only things that are different.

beats me. I just know that until I rolled the engine over the belt didn't seem to be as snug.

The access panels are in the trunk if you have a sedan, or behind the seats under the carpet if you have a wagon. There's two access panels. You'll need to remove both. The pump side has a level sender on it, as well as the jet assist side. What you can do is take some emery paper, or very fine sand paper and go over the metal contact points to help remove any oxidation or other dirt that may be causing issues with the signal.