Legacy777

I ran the Redline D4 ATF for a little while. I can't say it made my tranny any better, but it probably didn't break down as easily. It's a shame because I probably got less then 8,000 miles out of that fluid before I did a tranny swap.

Actually....you're going to run into a few issues with the electrical. The 90-91 MT's & AT's had different injectors, MAF's, coil packs, ignitor, and IAC valves. The main reason being is that the AT's have a JECS ECU, while the MT's have a Hitachi ECU. Here's what "I" would do. Take the ECU out of the 90 legacy, and swap it into the 91. You'll need to make sure you swap the AT MAF & ignitor over to the new setup. Also, the "diamond" coil pack from the MT cars tend to handle a little more power, so I'd keep the diamond coil pack and put it on the AT motor. If you do all that, you "should" be fine. The ECU's wiring has an AT/MT identifier pin. Depending or not if this pin is grounded, it tells the ECU that it's an AT or MT. So the wiring should be good....and you'll just have to plug in the 90 ECU. I have a technical packet for the 90 legacy. It lists the differences in sensors. I'll verify that the sensors I listed are the only things that are different.

beats me. I just know that until I rolled the engine over the belt didn't seem to be as snug.

The access panels are in the trunk if you have a sedan, or behind the seats under the carpet if you have a wagon. There's two access panels. You'll need to remove both. The pump side has a level sender on it, as well as the jet assist side. What you can do is take some emery paper, or very fine sand paper and go over the metal contact points to help remove any oxidation or other dirt that may be causing issues with the signal.

Are you sure you've got the marks aligned properly? The crank one can be a little deceiving. I've got pics from my tbelt change if you'd like to take a look at where the marks should be http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt Also, here are the factory pages for the timing belt change procedure http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg Once you get the belt on, tensioner installed and pin pulled, roll the engine over by hand a little bit in both directions to take the slack up. You can use the bolts on the cam pullies to roll the engine, or put the crank bolt on temporarily. If you don't do that, the slack won't be taken up. If you try to start the engine.....it'll jump.

I don't think you need a press. I've taken the pulley off to change it. It's not worth tearing apart....just get a used one for cheap.

The 2.5.....i can see.....the 2.0....no

yeah.....if you adjust it too far, the shifts will be too hard or possibly not change gears at all.

the brake band is on the top of the trans. here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakeband.jpg It "can" be adjusted without removing anything, however it's a real pain to get at regardless. I can try and look at the factory info on the brake band adjustment.

I don't know if they make a rebuild kit. You may want to see if you can find a used pump.

I don't know why people are suggesting to swap in an EJ20TT or EJ20T. It's not going to have squat for torque compared to the EG33 that's in there. With that heavy a car, you'd have one gutless wonder. If money isn't an issue, and you have time and money for the maintenance, the svx's are nice cars....but do require a little more TLC.

What are you looking for, the fuel pump connector, or the access panel to the fuel pump? The connector is under the rear seat on the passenger side, and is commonly covered with a thin black foam piece so it doesn't rattle, move around. Typically it's near the front of the back seat sill. The pump access panels are in the trunk.

You might want to just try running copper NGK's. Subaru's don't run too well on the bosch plugs for some reason.

I'd do all the routine maintenance stuff.....filters, plugs, wires, etc if you haven't done them since acquiring the vehicle.

Or you can get a plastic trim piece from any audio place, and cut it to fit. That's what I did. Check out my page for pics.

The engine rpms are going to jump up a little.....they shouldn't go way up. If you're in neutral and do the switching thing. What do the rpms do?

All at's are going to read higher when shut off....it's just normal

You are checking the tranny level correctly aren't you? You're suppose to warm up the trans, drive it a couple miles. park on level surface, leave the engine running, slowly cylce the gear selector from park to 1st, and then back to park. Then check the fluid level with the car STILL running.

Someone said it's on the outside of the tranny, however I've never really looked for it or verified its location.

There aren't any manuals for the first gen legacies on subaru's techinfo site.

I don't think it's motor mounts because all my drivetrain mounts are sti hardened mounts. I get a little of the jerkiness occasionally. It's usually when I'm not paying as close attention to get the clutch/gas just right. Plus I think it's amplified since I have a LW flywheel now.

Are you talking mainly in first gear, or all the gears? Can you describe exactly what it's doing.

there is a valve that commonly fails on the side of the transmission. It's some form of anti-drain back valve that keeps fluid from draining out of the torque converter. If this is worn, or not working properly, you'll get more fluid out then what the manual says. Also, if there's other issues/seals internally that are worn, you'll probably get more fluid out. One thing my tranny did was when you first start it up in the morning, it wouldn't want to move. I'd have to let it sit for 2 or 3 seconds in gear before it would move. That would seem to coincide with the anti-drain back valve not working, or other issues. If you have similar symptoms, I'd say it'd be normal to get more fluid out.

I don't know if I'd say they "would" fail prematurely.....but you may issues.

Not sure the silicone method would be a permanent fix or not. You could try it I guess.