Legacy777

you can get info on how to check the codes on my site.

If it only works on high, i'd say it's the resistor pack. Pull the glove box out, and you should see the resistor pack there. Check the wiring and see if you can get a used one to swap in to verify that's the problem.

I had a similar issue with my 90 where it would stall out on me. It did this intermittantly for about a year. Finally traced it down to the MAF sensor. When you replaced the MAF sensor, did you get a new one, or used one? Is your car MT or AT? I'd start with all the connections on the sensors. Only sensors i could think of that might cause this would be the crank/cam sensors. Or possibly something electrical. Something you might want to try. At night in a dark place, open the hood and use a spray bottle and spray a fine mist over the engine, coil pack, sensors, and see if you can get the engine to faulter. Make sure to take off the plastic engine cover while you spray.

subaruparts.com is fine for normal stuff that is in stock. They have good prices and such. However if you're ordering stuff that isn't in stock, they're not the best.....or as you have found...

Where was this part located? Can you find where it is on any of these pictures? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors There is absolutely no electrical connection the ECU has with tire pressure. I'd say what you experienced is pure coincidence, and/or the ECU finally had enough drive cylces of everything being ok for it not to freak out.

Like I said, the part #'s they gave you are either bogus, or someone screwed up. They are not valid. You can check them yourself at www.subaruparts.com Yes, you can tell what gear ratio the trans is from the outside, if you can find that info I mentioned. That number should be on the transmission somewhere. Thawa, what info are you talking about? gear ratios or part #'s? Gear ratios I pulled from the FSM's, and verified/feel comfortable with after talking with several owner's of various MY's. Part #'s.....I have the factory part book....plus can subaruparts.com to verify the #'s.

BTW.....those are not valid part #'s. Not quite sure what they relate to, or where you found them I doubt you'll find the orig part #'s. You should be able to find a # on the trans that starts with a TY or TZ or something like that. If you can find that #, I can tell you what year and model the trans came out of, as well as final drive ratio.

90-94 MT non-turbo trannies had 4.111 final drive ratio 90-91 AT non-turbo trannies had 4.111 final drive ratio 92-94 AT non-turbo trannies had 3.900 final drive ratio 91-94 MT & AT turbo trannies had 3.900 final drive ratio

Nope......not unless you have a problem, or sensor that throws a weird signal. Unplug the tps or other various sensor with the car running. CEL should come on.

If you want to swap rear differentials to match the 3.900 gear ratio, you can do that. Everything should be compatible then. You'll just have a different final drive ratio then you did before.

On the first gen legacies you can check the codes yourself. Info is on my site.

Did it work before the conversion at all? Sounds like you've replaced a lot of stuff. Could be evap core, expansion valve, or possibly temp sensors related to the ac system.

there is a littel black button with a red stripe at the top left of the corner of the shifter assembly. Press that button and you can shift the selector out of park. The click you hear is part of the shift interlock system.

if it's not showing up in the current codes, it just means there's nothing wrong/out of spec. yeah pull the EGI/TCU fuse now, and see if the power light continues to blink at startup.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG other various pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/

if you're still getting code 41, I'd say it's a pretty sure fire bet the ECU is having some issues. You can clean whatever you want, but you're still going to have issues.

you need to check for previous codes before pulling the EGI/TCU fuse. Previous codes may be nothing to worry about, however it may give you an idea into why the power light is going off.

yes you will need the cruise brain. I believe it is just to the right if you took the glove box out.

the canister purge solenoid you can let go, it's just emissions crap. The knock sensor however I'd probably suggest replacing. My bad on the knock sensor price. You can get one for around 40 bucks from subaruparts.com part # is 22060AA031 http://www.subaruparts.com/cart/?pn=22060AA031+&submit.x=6&submit.y=1

could be coolant temp sensor, or possibly torque converter lockup solenoid.

Have you recently replaced the thermostat? Or has it been replaced at all. Any thermostat that is a non-oem unit tends to have issues. They are different shape, size, and have different characteristics for how they react to temp changes, etc. May be worth checking. Also suggest checking the things THAWA suggested.

The canister purge solenoid is part of the evap emission system. It sits under the pass. side intake runners. it's about 100 bucks, and is something you should be able to replace yourself if you have a little mechanicing skills. pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG this pic, it's the sensor with the blue connector. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG the knock sensor is about 60 bucks...maybe less I think. The old sensors tended to crack and give you CEL and other issues. The new sensor has a white connector. Again, it's not overly difficult to replace if you have some mechanic skills pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

Did you get the code checking procedure from my site? Did you do the previous codes check as well? You may want to try that as well, also you may want to try resetting the tcu. You can do this by pulling the EGI/TCU fuse out for 15 min. The number of blinks of the power light at startup (16) is a default blink sequence to let you know the TCU found a sensor or received a signal that is out of spec. The 16 really doesn't mean anything other then that.

Welcome

this it? http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/obs.html