Legacy777

here are some pics of the timing belt job I did.....there are pics of the timing marks for the crank gear and such that might help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

How are you tighten the belt. You basically need to loosen the bolt on the pulley.....and then use the long bolt to tension things up. Then tighten down the bolt on the pulley.

I wouldn't say it's not uncommon for the screws on the oil pump backing plate to be loose. I've heard quite a few people talk about it. Mine however were not loose.....and were pretty tight. So....not sure why that was the case....

If the code points to a limit switch, I would start there, maybe test the switch, make sure it's ok.

take the belt off. try to turn the shaft. it should turn freely, yet not have any slop in it. If it doesn't turn smoothly/freely or has some play in the shaft, you're goin to need another pump.

The rattling is probably a loose heat shield........If you jack up the car, you should be able to feel around on the heat shields and see if they're loose. If they are, just take them off. If need be, cut them off.

Guys.....let's play nice or we won't be playing at all!

I haven't checked it recently.....don't have a thermometer.

triflow and pb blaster really are two different things... PB blaster is meant as a penetrating oil. In that respect it's the ****! Give it some time and it will unstuck those bolts that are severely stuck. Triflow is more of a lubricant. It has teflon in it, and I would use it over pb blaster if I wanted a lubricant, not a penetrating oil.

Because one of the sensors is not within its specs and it's throwing a code in the trans computer. I'm assuming you have a first gen legacy. Go to my site, notes & tips, trans related. Instructions are there to pull the codes from the transmission and what they mean. When you pull the codes, post back what you find out.

You need to remember that bad press spreads 10 times as fast as good press does. So for every headgasket failure....there's someone without any problems. If you really want to play the statistics game you really need to know the whole pool and hear from everyone in the pool.

the first gen legacies had 130hp 135 ft/lbs of torque. I've got a lot of good fsm info on my server....will probably be beneficial http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans also if you haven't checked out www.bbs.legacycentral.org I'd suggest doing that.

failure of the end tanks are pretty common on the first gen legacies. Radiators in that price range are goin to be copper/brass radiators. You currently have an aluminum w/plastic endtanks. I did some research on the copper/brass radiators.....and it's just something I didn't really care to have the dissimlar metals here's a thread with a lot of info in it http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2445&page=1&pp=10&highlight=radiator+copper+brass

I definitely agree with this statement.....subaru owner's typically are not sheep. I for one like to have something that is unique....road less traveled if you will.

Yeah....they really need to advertise the legagy gt....NON outback. If they can get the advertising right....you'll pull in a younger crowd with the legacy. Simply because it's a very nice car, stylish, agressive, yet has the balls to back it. If I didn't have student loans, I'd probably get one. I think professionals in their late 20's is not an unreasonable market. lothar, I was thinking of headin out to one of the subie dealerships in town to see if I could do a test drive. You wanna go some time?

Subaru needs to apeal to the performancing minded individuals who want a little more class then what the wrx has to offer. ie the legacy gt. Very nice looking car with some balls to back it. My personal opinion still is that SOA's ad campaign sucks! This is along the lines of what I would like to see http://subaru.com.au/downloads/464644.mpg

to get the evap out, just take the glove box out, and you should see the evap box right behind it. on the first gen legacies there's 2 bolts holding it in place. Once the lines are removed from the a/c system under the hood the box should just pull right out. and no you don't need to remove the heat exchanger to get the evap out.

thanks sea, I'll see how things work. If it really looks like things aren't working well. I'll redo it.

You can do the retrofit yourself without any kit. You'll want to evacuate the system. Replace the receiver/dryer. Take the compressor out and drain the oil out of it. There is a haynes air conditioning manual that has a lot of good info, oil & refrigerant amounts. But basically you want to dump all the old mineral oil out of the system. You then want to use esther oil. Put all but 1 oz of the specified oil in the compressor. Put the remaining in the receiver/dryer. Seal everything back up. Take it to a shop, have them pull a vacuum on the system and charge the system to 75-80% of the r12 amount of refrigerant. On mine 1.8-2.0 lbs of r12 was required. So I used around 1.5 lbs of r134a. Let me know if you have any questions.

DGmachinist, you might want to be a little more receptive to ideas. While subarubrat's idea may not be for everyone.....no reason to say it's not helpful. Don't expect to get much from mods. But if you're just looking for bolt on stuff, you can look into underdriven/lightweight pullies, msd dis 2 ignition, magnecor wires, TB bypass mod, and just a simple tune up....replace all filters, run some injector cleaner through, etc.

that's actually what the fsm says to do....weight it

system calls for around 1.8-2.0 lbs of R12 refrigerant. 75-80% of that amount is 1.35-1.6 lbs of R134a. Two 12oz cans equals 24 oz of 134a. There's 16 oz in 1lb. 24 oz is 1.5 lbs. Since you really won't get all of the 134a out of the can.....I put in 2 cans and just recently added a touch more from a third can.

rweddy, Let us know what you find out from SOA. Thanks

I flushed the entire a/c system out with a/c system cleaner before doing anything.....so the amount of oil I put should be pretty accurate.

I opened up the used compressor I put in.....it was pretty much bone dry. I added the specified amount of esther oil per the what the haynes a/c manual stated my system required. I did the same thing before. Yes I replaced the receiver/dryer. Let's say I have too much oil and/or water in the system.....is there any damage that could happen.....or just not as good cooling efficiency.