Legacy777

nah I don't think it's the MAF. I'd spray some brake cleaner in the IAC = idle air control valve tube. There may be gunk in there that's causing it to stick. Other possibility is the injectors. See if you can find some seafoam and run some in your gas. Does the weird idle thing happen without touching the gas pedal at all?

MAF = Mass Air Flow Sensor

may want to ask this over on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Corky is correct, in the US the legacy was first available as a 1990 MY You may want to check scorpion lift kits. I think they should work.

The F isn't part of the part number, so you have the same computer.

The 90-94 stereo's are the same to my knowledge.

how come? Did it just not work?

huh? the black connectors are not the clear ECU connectors. They are only the read mode connectors. You need to find the green connectors to do the d check, and to clear the codes.

Have you tried to clear the codes? Have you run the car in D-check mode with the green connector, and/or tried to clear the codes by connecting both the black and green connectors? If you've done all that correctly and the codes are still there, I would check your wiring.

Yeah I'm sure I need to cut the hole. Apparently on the first gen legacies other then the turbos they didn't cut the hole because the trannies were cable operated. Looking at the pedal system, I should be able to get things lined up enough to get the studs through the firewall, and then mark the hole.....hopefully.

I ran into something tonight.....the fuel separator thing is different on the wagons and sedans. Anyone have an AWD leg parts car lying around, or know of any in a junkyard around you? I really need this part along with the lines by next week. here's more info http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20211 TIA!

very nice!!! That's definitely a pretty involved project.....I really need to learn how to weld

yeah....you have to wade through a lot of info and take it with a grain of salt until you verify it yourself, or know the person posting it knows what they're talking about.

here's a pretty good thread over on nabisco http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=7244879 I still do agree with them and what I said earlier that it's really not necessary on a stock engine, and it will hurt emissions and such.

Yes you are correct. If you are traveling on the hwy with adequate airflow to the radiator, there's no need for fans....ie ECU to regulate temp.....and yes in that case, I agree that the tstat is more or less regulating the temp. If the radiator cools the coolant too much, the tstat will close slightly and start to restrict flow, which "should" bring temps back into where they're suppsed to be. I will say however that the OEM tstats have a higher resistance to temperature changes. So they're not going to open and close much if at all due to temperature swings. I found this out when I put an aftermarket tstat in, and experienced weird issues with the temps decreasing. I do think that what I orig. said is not necessarily totally true, because in certain circumstances the tstat is doing more of the regulating of the temps. So I guess depending on what type of driving you do most will inherantly determine what temp control device (tstat vs ECU/fans) is regulating the engine temp.

hey kev.....sounds pretty weird.....might be just a bad battery. A buddy had one go last week in his civic....got some weird things happening...it was all of a sudden. Got a new battery and all was good.

I think your switching of open loop and closed loop in your previous post is what had me confused Again, I'm going to ask, where did you get your data, how do you know it drops back to the point dictatec by the stat? Have you taken readings from the ECU? I'm not trying to argue here, just to discuss. I have watched the temps for my car on the select monitor and seen what the normal operating temp range is. Bottom line is the ECU controls what temp range the engine is going to run at, NOT the tstat. All the data and info I've read/learned supports my opinion that putting a lower temp tstat in a stock car without modifying the ECU is a waste of time and won't change things. The reason I'm asking for data or proof is not to argue, but to learn if my opinion is incorrect, and can be proven incorrect by data/facts. I think you mean Josh....not Matt. As for the "accepted" fact.....I don't think so. That may be a good rule of thumb, but in any good experimentation or engineering testing, you support/dispute a rule of thumb or practice by testing and real data. If you could show me a 10 degree drop in air temp via sensors across a range of engine operating conditions, then yeah I'll believe that rule of thumb. Yes I have done the TB bypass mod to reduce heat soak in the TB and intake. Has it helped, yes. By how much, I don't know, and I'm not going to begin to try and quantify how much gains/improvement/etc were had by doing this. Without doing a lot more testing, I can't give that info. Qualitatively I can say that throttle response is better, the car feels a little more peppy, and the TB is a little cooler. Again....I'm not trying to pick a fight, just have a discussion. If you can provide data/facts to support what you're saying, I have no problem saying I am wrong, but until then, I'm going to go on my opinion based off the facts and knowledge I have learned.

yup

Yup....it's a hydraulic clutch turbo 5MT......so I get that added extra complexity and get to cut a hole in the firewall for the clutch MC.

nice looking legacy i really need to get my glass headlamps in....they look so much better then the plastic ones

swapping a 91 turbo legacy tranny & LSD rear diff in my legacy. As for the why.....why not....hehe....actually I have been wanting to do this for some time....I just prefer driving MT vehicles, plus my AT isn't in the best shape, so a few months ago I started collecting all the pieces to get the swap in progress.

I don't get what you're trying to say with your last statement in quotes...you talk about going from open to closed loop earlier, which the temp sensor is a contributing factor in the ECU's decision to go from open loop to closed loop and back, along with a few other sensor inputs, like the O2 sensor and so forth. However upon startup/warmup I would venture to say that the ECU is open loop. Would you agree? I don't think that 12 degree of head start is going to last you your entire drive to really make a difference. I could be wrong, but I sort of doubt it. As for your other claims of stuff running cooler and more power, do you have any proof/data to back those claims up, or are they more or less like the "butt dyno?

sweeet!!

Thanks Corky, hahaha...yeah there's parts all over the place. It should be a good project to keep me busy though

Well I started tearing down the donor car today for my swap. I setup a mini page/journal type thing http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/trannyswap.html