Legacy777

Find some pb blaster and spray the bolts real good the day before, or a couple days before. Best penentrating oil out there...period!

there unfortunately isn't any fsm info for the first gen legacies on the subaru techinfo site. also...fixed the link... warp, you're welcome....that's going to be the only permenant fix...all the polishes and such leave the plastic open to the air to just oxidize again.

Unless you have a lot of work on the car already, or very attached to it....yeah it's easier to just get an AWD one. Sure it can be done, mine will be driving proof, but it's not a simple sunday afternoon task.

You can paruse what fsm scans I have on my site. I have a complete 92 section for the engine & engine electrical on there. They will be pretty much the same for the 94's http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans headlamp cleaning....this is the more permanent fix http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=739 abs diag procedure http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/absdiag.jpg I'd recommend checking out the legacycentral bbs. A LOT of info on the first gen legacies www.bbs.legacycentral.org

get 5 qts. rear diff takes just under 1 qt, and the tranny is like 3.7 or something like that. Your owner's manual will have the specifics on capacities.

yeah I guess that would be easier. The AWD portion really wasn't too bad....you're just swapping all the rear end components. Getting the AT out was a pain, and putting the pedal stuff in was a pain because I'm using a hydraulic clutch, and the 90 MY did not come with holes pre-drilled for the clutch master cylinder. So I had to drill the holes....and all that good stuff.

I believe the AT tranny cross members are the same, just the mount that is different. Check out my page which has all my swap info. I'm converting to 5MT, but the AWD portion is pretty similar. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/trannyswap.html

AT or MT. I'm going to assume MT. In this pic you can see the dipstick handle sticking out on the tranny in the corner http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legswap/04/DCP_3122.JPG better pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legswap/04/DCP_3123.JPG AT the differential dipstick is on the right, the tranny dipstick is on the left http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legswap/08/DCP_3217.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legswap/08/DCP_3216.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/legswap/08/DCP_3215.JPG

fans kick on around 200 deg F.

I took them when I was swapping injectors, and intake manifold gaskets. I removed the whole intake and cleaned things up and took a bunch of pics

coloradosubarules, One request....if you're original post even relavently relates to what you're going to post a question about....please keep it in one thread. You've got like 3 or 4 threads, and it makes trying to keep track of what's been fixed, what's not been fixed, and people's suggestions a little more difficult. thanks

The ECU can not possibly relearn anything by just sitting. It does relearn while driving though, and yes I do agree about that. The more you drive, the more it alters the base maps.

look at these pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

Ummm....you don't need to let it sit......sounds like you have another problem

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG brown one is for the ECU, (one you want to replace) the small one is for the dash gauge.

Do NOT start the car to try and get the crank pulley off! If you have a MT, put it in 5th, have someone step on the brakes and loosen the pulley. If you have an automatic, pull the acess plug on the tranny, stick a breaker bar or prybar in there to grab one of the access holes on the flex plate. That will hold the motor. As for the seals, getting them out is the biggest pain. You have to insert a small flathead at an angle, then press the end of the handle towards the engine, while the middle part is against the engine or against another screwdriver, so as to act as a fulcrum. While doing this, you have to make sure not to scratch the shafts either. If the crank or cam seals are leaking, you'll probably want to change the timing belt again, since it probably has oil on it. If you're going that far, you might as well replace the o-ring in the oil pump, check the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump, and re-seal it back up. If you're decent with turning wrenches, you should be able to do this job. You can see the access port on the bell housing in these pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/ You can see the pics from my timing belt change here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/ I've got a write-up in a thread with a little more detail if you want to search.

Yes it will cause issues long term. Or at least it did with mine. The theory behind this is fine when under acceleration, however under light throttle applications and idling, this puts a lot of excess pressure on the shift solenoids, etc. My car would not down shift when I manually moved the gear selector with the resistor out. I drove with the resistor out for only a little bit. After plugging it back in, whenever I downshifted from D to 3 it would act a little weird and has done so ever since. Some may not care to shift manually, but I did. One of the guys on the legacycentral bbs was going to use a power resistor that was a little higher in resistance as to firm up shifts, but not totally remove the resistor from the system. He was also looking at trying to make a switch or something that would use the resistor when at idle, but shorted the circuit once you reached half throttle or something like that. I'd plug it back in.

PLEASE do NOT post in all caps.

That's pretty normal in terms of down shifting. You have to dump it in order for it to downshift. I usually manually shift the gear selector because I want it to downshift, but I don't want it to jump down two gears and have the rpms up around redline. As for disabling overdrive.....again....just manually shift the gear selector.

When the power light comes on when you floor it, it just means you're driving "less" fuel efficient, and the shift maps will be more agressive. If it blinks it means there's an issue with tranny. You can check the codes by following the instructions on my site.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2471.JPG the thing with the blue plug

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1990_Legacy_FSM_Supplement/

yes that tube should be connected to the intake. Without that connected your engine is not getting proper air/fuel ratios and everything will be messed up. Reset your ECU after you connect it back up and you verify that this fixed your problem.

Acutally.....you lucked out. 92 was the only year the ECU was the same in both AT & MT cars. The ECU has an AT/MT identifier pin on it. Apply the appropriate signal +5v or 0v and that's how the ECU determines whether the engine has an AT or MT and adjusts the tuning accordingly. You can find the ECU I/O info in the fsm scans folder. If you need any other suggestions or help, let me know. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans

that's the newer IAC valves here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG