Legacy777

fixed typo

First thing I suggest doing is checking the ECU for trouble codes. You can do this yourself via the instructions on my site. Next......does the problem only happen immediately when you start the car, or is it still there after a minute or so of driving until things warm up? I don't think any of the things the mechanics say are the issue. The catalytic converters usually don't go bad, and when they do, they get plugged up and you'll have decreased performance all the time, especially when warmed up. The injectors.....if the injector was bad bad, it would throw a trouble code. Other thing you might want to check/replace is the coolant temp sensor. it's a 20 dollar part that tells the computer how to adjust the air/fuel mixture of the engine. It would explain the poor running while cold....but not necessarily the issues when it rains.

To check AT fluid level, warm up the trans/car to normal operating temp. Park on level surface, cylce the gear shifter slowly from park to 1 and then back to park, leave car running, and then check fluid level

what thawa said I suggest you read my swap page very carefully to understand what's all involved. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

Is it a tube or cable?

If you come to a complete stop, the car will start in 1st. If it's a more of a rolling stop, yeah it'll probably stay in 2nd. The logic in the auto trannies is pretty good. If you floor it, it will downshift to lowest gear it can.

alternator. go have the charging system tested at autozone or some other auto parts store. Have them test both the alternator and battery.

To add a/c would probably be a more involved job.....I'm sure it can be done, but I don't know of anyone doing it. The first gen legacies are some of the most reliable subies out there IMO. timing belt change interval is 60k miles. They are non-interference engines, so if one does go, it won't damage engine. here's pics from my tbelt change http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

The factory manual says for the 2.5 liter manual tranny, final drive ratio should be 4.111 The GT had the 2.5 liter, so final drive ratio should be 4.111

Redline only makes one kind of fluid for autos, and it is the D4 ATF fluid. I don't understand why everyone hates the 1-2 shift. It's a solid shift. I hate the mushy crap feel of soft shifts.

Check out my site. It has the procedure on how to pull any codes that may be stored, as well as put the car in a diagnostic check mode. I had an intermittant problem sort of like what you're describing. It turned out to be a bad MAF sensor. Does the car run horribly all the time, stall, etc? Try unplugging the MAF sensor and drive around. It'll probably run like crap, but it'd be worth seeing if your particular issues go away. They're about 300 bucks new.

As long as the compressor is good, and you have some mechanical apptitude, you can retrofit the a/c system for about 50 bucks in parts, and 40 bucks to have a vacuum pulled on the system and charged with 134a. I've got a detailed post on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

there is no viscous center diff, or viscous anything in the automatics. They use a multi-plate rear clutch pack. That is more then likely what you need. The dealer is going to pull the rear extension housing off the transmission and replace those plates in the clutch pack. Please see this thread for scans of the AT's AWD system and the rear extension housing & clutch pack. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22885

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/3_Transmission_and_Differential_Section/3-1_Manual_Transmission_and_Differential/MSA5TCD99L147.pdf http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/3_Transmission_and_Differential_Section/3-2_Automatic_Transmission_and_Differential/MSA5TCD99L172.pdf Remember, despite the fact these scans are from the factory manuals, and "should" be correct, it's always important to verify it, because I've seen lots of errors in the manuals.

No it doesn't always take off in 2nd. Whever you heard that, they had their information mixed up.

Just curious.....have you bothered to put an ohm/volt meter on that lead? Usually the FSM gives you what the ohm/voltage should be if you want to test the solenoid. I would think that'd give you a good indication of the wiring too.

If that wiring harness is bad between the connector and the tranny.....you'd have to run a new line down and splice it in at the tranny. You wouldn't be able to replace that harness without taking apart the tranny. Either way....to test that wire, you're going to have to unwrap the electrical wiring loom. You could run a T-tap on the duty-c solenoid wire and connect that to 12v. If that does help....then just run a new wire to splice into the connector and wire before it goes into the tranny.

The automatics use a computer controlled rear clutch pack system to transfer power to the rear wheels. You can take a look at these scans for more detailed info http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg

I asked you this on nasioc... what trim level?

pretty much any other other newer subaru wheel will work. SVX wheels will not work. Wheels need to have 5x100 bolt pattern and probably at least +45mm of offset

tirerack is going to have the best prices on kybs. Still think KYB makes the best all around struts for every day use & performance.

you're already on there....at the top http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/links.html#vendors

I'm planning on updating my site. I would like some suggestions on what you might like to see regarding the first generation legacies. Also if you have a vendor you've dealt with and don't see it on my site, please let me know. Any suggestions/comments are welcome. I'll be gathering comments and sorting through everything in a little bit.

I highly suggest you replace all four at once. Replacing just the fronts or the rears (especially just the rears) can put you into a situation where the car's balance/handling is thrown out of whack. I speak from experience. I put new struts on the rear and the fronts were relatively new, but a strut of lesser quality. The car was extremely tail happy and the rear end would break loose on turns. With that said, I highly recommend KYB GR2 struts. They are an excellent compromise between a performance strut and good ride. They are about 20% stiffer then the stock setup, but by no means super stiff. Replace all four, and you will be amazed in the transformation of your car.

It's probably a dieing alternator. Have her take it to an autozone or something, and have them check the electrical/charging system.