Legacy777

Sounds like something's gummed up in there. I had this occasionally when I was AT. How old is the fluid in the tranny? You might want to try running some transmission specific seafoam through the auto tranny and see if that helps.

this should help get you started http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Legacyradiodiag.jpg

yeah.....clear codes and then see what comes back

I've added some more goodies. All can be found here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/ Again, Please right click and save the pdf's. Thanks 1980_Subaru_Manuals 1990_Legacy_FSM_Supplement 1990_Legacy_Owner_Manual_Scans 1990-1994_Legacy_Parts_Manual_-_Engine 1992_FSM_(Engine_&_Electrical) 1992_Subaru_Service_Bulletins 1999_Legacy_FSM 2000+_Legacy_FSM 2002_WRX_FSM 2004_Impreza_WRX_STi_Factory_Service_Manual Chiltons FSM_Scans Subaru_Service_Bulletins Technicians_Reference_Booklets

yup....check the codes and see what you find.

Some stuff may swap over from the 95-99 legacies, but body interior stuff is usually specific to the generation it's from, ie 90-94. Only big issue you should worry about with salvage titles is with insurance and getting them insured and/or possibly passing safety inspection afterwards.

Very little is swappable. The car has been completely redesigned. About the only thing I could think that would swap over would be the brakes....and I WOULD want to do that, since the brakes on the 05 are far better. If you want to go through the hassle of swapping the booster, it's supposed to be reinforced. I'm not sure whether it will fit though. Only drawback to the larger brakes is you need larger wheels.

Replacing the slave cylinder isn't hard. There's two bolts that hold it on. You loosen the clutch line, and secure it to the new one. Bleeding the system of air can be more of a pain in the butt then installing it. I too suggest you make sure that's the problem before replacing it.

The OEM subaru filter is a purolator filter. I'm pretty sure it's not the pure one, however I don't see purolator changing how/where the bypass valve is located. I don't know of too many filters that don't have the bypass valve in the bottom.

No, it sounds like you're on the right track. Did you test the signal at the ECU pins or at the ignitor? If you tested at the ignitor, you may want to test at the ECU to verify wiring is not an issue.

No problem Glen The gear in the picture is for the crank. The bigger pullies are for the cams. The crank sensor is located on the front of the engine just above the oil pump. Take a look at the pictures I took when I did my injectors and timing belt. I labeled a lot of the sensors when doing the injectors. The timing belt, I don't think I labeled the pictures, but you can get an idea how everything goes together. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors

it's not everything, but enough to help ya out http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/

Yes those tabs can get broken, and basically cause the motor not to work. As I mentioned the sensor puts out a small electromagnet field and those tabs break that field. That pulse get's sent to the ECU. The ECU is programmed with the fact that the tabs are irregularly placed around the gear. Because of this, it knows the exact position of the crankshaft. Same is true for the camshaft.

There are no magnets on the gear or the pulley. Here is a picture of the crank gear. You can see the little tabs I was talking about. Unfortunately I didn't get any good pictures of the back of the cam gear. But it has a similar set of irregularly patterned out knotches. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2716.JPG It'd be worth checking the sensors to verify they're actually outputting some sort of signal, but as others have mentioned, definitely check your wiring and grounds. Also.....did you put the ECU in the engine bay? That's not really the best place for it, especially since it's not water tight.

The The way the crank & cam sensors work is they emit a small electromagnetic field/pulse or whatever. The crank gear and cam pulley has marks or breaks in the normal pattern of the gear/pulley that interupt that electromagnetic field to let the ECU know what the timing is and when to fire. I just really don't think you would get only one bank firing if you had a bad cam or crank sensor.

yeah....2yr old gas isn't too good to be running through the engine. Put some sea foam or some other fuel stabalizer/cleaner in the tank. Fill it up 1/2 way, try to run it good, and then fill up with good gas, and hope you didn't suck up anything too nasty. I'd also probably suggest changing the fuel filter too. As for the PS pump pulley. How is it wobbling? I've never seen one of them wobble/come loose. Is the shaft on the pump damaged?

Glen, The only reason I don't think it's either the crank or cam sensor is because he is getting spark at one bank of cylinders. If the cam or crank sensor was on the fritz, he probably wouldn't have any spark at all. I'd still probably recommend checking the ECU for any codes it might have stored in there.

here's the service procedure http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1999_Legacy_FSM/3_Transmission_and_Differential_Section/3-2_Automatic_Transmission_and_Differential/MSA5TCD99L187.pdf As for parts. If it's just the duty c solenoid, then all you'll need is that and probably an o-ring. Are you absolutely sure your problem is with the duty c solenoid? Have you tested it to make sure it's open/broken? here's the testing procedure for the duty c solenoid http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/2002_WRX_FSM/scans/2002_wrx_dutyc_sol_testing.pdf It's for the 2002 wrx, but the procedure and connectors are the same.

It does sound like the coil pack is good. I'd say the ignitor or ECU is to blame. Test the ignitor and then the ECU. If you don't have the factory manual, this will be of some help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/

Keep the unaltered 93 TB on there. The only component that really might need replacing is the TPS. If you want to swap TPS's you can do that. However you will need to adjust the TPS for the TB. You do that by setting the idle switch. Instructions are here: http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg I'd recommend a 10w30 for these motors. The owner's manual says not to run 5w30 if you're going to be doing extended freeway or "high speed" driving. Hope we're on the home stretch here.

You may want to try asking that question over in the transmission forum on www.nasioc.com There's probably a lot more people that have done the six speed swap or info.

Sounds like I'd definitely put in a new O2 sensor On TB....is the 93 TB the one you adjusted or is it the 91? I think from your post, the 91 is the one you adjusted. So you swapped back on the 93 and all is good? Other thought.....do you know how old the coolant temp sensor is? That may be something you might want to replace. it's 20 bucks from subaruparts.com and can affect how much fuel the engine is getting.

You're not supposed to touch those throttle stop screws The TB is bench flow tested at the factory and adjusting that can mess things up. As I mentioned before, adjusting those screws is trying to fix a symptom, not a problem. More then likely the high idle issue is/was related to your horrible gas mileage problems. Unfortunately I really don't have any more suggestions as to what the problem may be. Other then testing all the sensors with a multi-meter and checking over everything....I'm sort of at a lost. That air bypass screw is what got me. I swapped TB's and the problem went away, I was like WTF? and finally found that screw. If you still have your other TB, you could try swapping it and see if the high idle goes away.

If the sensor is truly bad, and you need a new one, the trick to getting them out is pretty much beating them out. If you can get at it from the other side you can beat it out. If not, you'll have to get creative with a chisel and punch, while not damaging the tone wheel. I removed the abs sensors and tone wheels from the AWD rear hubs when I did my AWD & 5mt swap you can see the tone wheel mess and such in some of these pics http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/06/default.htm

glad to hear it was something simple.