Legacy777

Welcome Andrew.

instructions on how to pull the codes is on my website. Pull the codes and post what info you find.

It might be... You had like 7 pictures...give or take 2 or 3, and the email was like 9mb. Those are pretty big pictures.

there are a couple good write-ups in the subaru conversion forum on http://forums.nasioc.com may want to check that out, as well as this page http://wac.addr.com/auto/obs/disc/disc.html

I'm in seattle till monday. I won't get to post pics until I get back.....I'll have to resize them....they're a little big

depends on what book and/or cd......if they're both the same, and you like to have paper in front of you...get the book.

The automatic transmissions have a torque split of 90/10 under normal straight dry driving conditions. So the front wheels are going to be most of the work. WHen slip occurs, the torque split can increase up to 50/50 Manual transmission cars have 50/50 torque split all the time. Manual tranny cars use a viscous limited slip differential to control torque transfer, while the autos use electronics.

pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trannyresistor3.jpg Don't do what the picture says...leave it plugged in http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/trans_connector.jpg

I think if had put the transmission in first gear it might have given you enough clearance. When you put it back together, just put the bolt in through the other side and nut on the transmission side. The one in my pic is the newer style....which isn't necessarily better.

That's weird....did it look like the line was kinked? I'm assuming it didn't rust out. Wonder if it got damaged during install, or while someone was working on the car.

http://techinfo.subaru.com

I would think the resistor should be there. However where it's located.....not really sure. Do you have any manuals for the car?

Which bolt are you talking about? http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/15/DCP_3352.JPG http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/swap/12/DCP_3315.JPG

or here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/ I've got the 2002 manuals, and what's on the site corky posted, but in a much better format, if you want to suck it all down.

Welcome to the board. What model & year subie do you have? I haven't ever heard of that happening. Where in the hard line di it break? Down near the tranny or up along the frame rail?

when they turn on, are they kind of dim? Do you hear the clicking from the blinker? Might be a short, or probably a bad blinker unit. There's a bimetallic strip in there, and that may have worn out.

ok....so you used a non-abs jdm valve....not a usdm one.

The proportioning valves are different between the abs & non-abs cars. You should really try and find a prop valve from a non-abs car. What the ramafications are for using the abs one on a non-abs car......I'm not sure.

usually if the light is on all the time, even after a reset....it's probably bad.

So the starter cranks? but the engine doesn't start?

Andrew, I'm not sure what the gear ratios were like overseas, but the turbo legacies in the states got 3.90 final drive ratio. However.....that really doesn't matter. The differential is staying the same. You're just replacing the gear sets. You can do whatever you want with the gear sets. You can remove the drive pinion shaft from the driven shaft. These scans may help show what I'm talking about http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_AWD_drive_pinion_assy.jpg here's the main shaft http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_main_shaft_assy.jpg

Is it throwing a check engine light? If not, you can try shooting some brake cleaner down the intake tube of the IAC valve. There's probably some gummed up carbon in there.

email me the pics, I'll host them and post..... jlegacy(at)surrealmirage.com

Yeah....is the check engine light on? If so, go to my site and you'll find instructions on how to pull the codes. You may also want to check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org as well.

You'll never get both valves exactly the same, and because of this, you'd be causing an even more dangerous situation by having different braking forces on each side of the car.