Legacy777

It's not that bad. The MT tranny is pretty light compared to the AT. It'll help to have a second person there to tilt the engine back while you're under the car. This will help align the tranny & engine. I've got pics from my swap of various tranny and other parts if you want to take a gander. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

Yup, they made the turbo legacy from 91-94. It was available in a 5spd all those years in sedan body. The 91 had a VLSD rear diff and a few other goodies the 92-94's did not. You can find out a lot more info about them on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

ultra gray rtv silicone stuff to reseal the oil pump. that sounds like everything.

check out my write-up on my AWD & 5spd swap. It's pretty invovled, however it can be done. Engine swap would "probably" be easier, but there's still items you need to take into consideration if you want to do it right. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

I'd definitely suggest going to a different dealer and have them look at it. The car is brand new, and they should take care of it.

No prob, some of the stuff in here may be of use to you as well http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans

here's the info http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/

I've got factory manual instructions and pictures from my timing belt change. However my server is down for some reason. When it comes back up, I'll post the info.

Just curious, Did you use an OEM Subaru t-stat or aftermarket one? I'd suggest replacing the coolant temp sensor as well. They can be had for about 20 bucks at some of the online subaru parts stores.

Some people have undone the return line and ran the car to get all of the fluid out, and tried to keep adding fluid. Personally, I wouldn't really bother. Just drain the fluid and refill.

That is definitely the speedo cable base piece. It goes into the differential housing. If you checked the level on the yellow handled dipstick on the passenger side, while the car is off and "cold" and it's still overfull, drain the differential fluid and refill through the yellow handled dipstick hole on the passenger side. 80w90 is fine to use. Check your owner's manual for the capacity amount. BTW everyone it's an automatic. The MT speedo cable goes into another cable, which leads to the transmission, and does not have the base piece that connects to the front differential.

If you're problems go away with the FWD fuse installed, the duty c solenoid is fine, and it's the extension housing/clutch packs. Try changing the fluid and using the MT additive that has been talked about. Tires will play a role in binding. If you have mis matched tire sizes, there can be a speed difference between the front and rear output shaft. The TCU detects this and tries to shift power around. Under normal straightline driving, the speed difference is not much, however can be great enough under turning conditions to cause problems. check out www.subaruparts.com & www.1stsubaru.com

what car? You won't damage anything. Your engine puts out more torque then what you can get on a torque wrench. If you have a newer subaru, most have hydraulic lifters and there's no adjustments that need to be done.

What does the connector plugin look like? What color is it?

If I had the money, sure I'd be game to bring it over there

Transgo makes shift kits for the 4EAT. 88 and up though. http://www.txchange.com/sk.htm#Import SK® RE4R01A Nissan RE4R01A, RL4R01A Mazda R4AX-EL, Subaru 4 speed ECAT, Nissan – Infinity – Truck - SUV V8 RE4R03A, Isuzu Diesel JR403 1988up 4 speed with or without lockup Corrects/Prevents/Reduces: Planetary burnup; 3rd clutch failure; forward clutch burnup Soft 1-2 shift; 2-3 cutloose; Band burnout and low lube flow causing overheating and total burnup

Yeah, there's a code stored in the TCM. I'm not sure if the procedure to get the codes on my site will work with your car, but you could give it a try.

No there's no way to control ignition timing with the stock ECM. If you have a seperate controllable ignition module, like one of the MSD units, you could do it. You can however view you ignition timing and other various sensors by using vrg3's ECU scan tool software. You can find out more info on www.bbs.legacycentral.org in the electrical forum. There's a sticky in there about it.

The manual button does not lock the car in 4wd mode. this is from my site on the manual button's function Manual Button The manual button has some controversy as two what its function is. But I'm here to disavow any of those rumors. Firstly, the automatic transmission normally runs a power split of 90% front 10% rear. This is under normal driving conditions. Secondly, the manual button ONLY works when the shift lever indicator is in the positions "3" or "2". Ok, so you're ready to hear what this thingy does. It is a very primitive version of traction control. When the shift lever is either 3 or 2, and the manual button is depressed, it will keep the transmission from going into first gear. By doing this, you have less torque, more evenly distributed power, and a less chance to slip and slide around. So to recap, when the shift lever is in the 2 position the transmission stays in 2nd gear. When the shift lever is in the 3 position the transmission chooses between 2nd and 3rd gear. If the shift lever is any other position then the two above, the manual button does absolutely positively nothing.

The tranny's alright. Yeah it was a little weird getting in the car. I really don't drive the car much on a regular basis because I'm like 5min from work, and short trips are worse for it. Overall I'm happy with the conversion. The AWD gives you much more grip. My main beef with the swap is the shifting. Subaru MT's are not very smooth shifting transmissions, and the throws aren't short. I've done some tweaking with the linkage and tried different fluids. I still get a little bit of grind between 1st & 2nd if I accelerate hard in 1st and try to shift. It seems to be a less of an issue when cold, so I'm going to probably try some 80w90 gear oil and see if that helps. Other observation with the automatic vs. manual is the automatic in some occasions seemed to provide better torque delivery, and more then likely it did, because of how you get torque multiplication with the torque converter. Also, the automatic had better gearing the manual. I just wish there were some decent roads to actually drive the car on...

It's the metal plate that connects the engine to the torque converter.

I will caution you guys on one thing. I don't know too much about the old gen stuff, but as far as the new gen stuff, there are two types of clutch setups. A push style and pull style clutch. All the turbo'd cars got the pull style clutch, while the n/a cars got the push style clutch. I don't know if you can differentiate by just looking at the pressure plate or not. here's the blowup for the turbo clutch setup. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_turbo_clutch_blowup.jpg I know some guys were looking into swapping the WRX clutch & pp onto a turbo legacy. Everything bolted up, except the wearing surface on the turbo legacy flywheel was slightly smaller then the WRX setup. So unless they did something extremely different for the old gen stuff, I would assume it would be similar.

If you physically move the gear selector to the 1 postion it will force 50/50 torque split on the automatics. I'm not positive about the 2 position however. It may, or may not. As for the info in the above threads, it's pretty much correct. The 4EAT system is actually pretty good, and will in most cases react faster then the MT system will. This is simply because the AT system is electrical based. Yes it does have its short-comings, but it's not bad. The MT's system. The fluid in the center diff is actually a silcone based fluid. There are clutch plates in there. Inner, and outer plates. When a speed difference occurs, this fluid heats up and causes the plates to lock up. The most torque split that can occur is 50/50. I believe it's a common misconception with most AWD systems that power can be transfered all the way front or back. It can't, the best you can hope for is both front and rear output shafts spin at the same speed, which is 50/50 torque split. You can not take away power from the front or rear output shafts. The new VTD is actually pretty cool. It uses a center diff with a planetary gear system that controls default torque split via the gearing. So under normal conditions the default torque split is 45/55. There is a clutch pack that when engaged locks the inner and outer planetary gears together and forces 50/50 torque split. The system is for the most part, pretty much on or off, so you have the default torque split or 50/50. The only draw back to the subaru system compared to fancy high priced systems is that power can only be transferred forward or backward, and not side to side. The VDC system is subaru's answer to that though. It's a traction control system that can brake individual wheels and keep the car on the intended path and limit slip if you have one wheel spinning in the front or rear.

http://www.subiesport.com

There's places/holes on the flex plate where you can insert a big pry bar or something to keep the engine from turning over. Yeah, you'll have to rotate the engine to find them though.