Legacy777

Are you referring to the swap I did, and converting FWD to AWD, or AT to MT, or both? I'm not sure what the other thread said, but assuming you get the same suspension and components for the same model year you're looking to swap, it should work fine, and all the holes will be there.

I haven't heard any issues with syn ATF. I ran redline D4 atf for a short time. Syn ATF will resist breakdown due to hotter temps. I'd also suggest putting in an ATF cooler to help extend tranny life.

The chassis has all the bolt holes there. It can be done, I did it. If you plan to use a turbo legacy transmission, expect a little more difficulty, because you must drill a hole in the firewall for the clutch master cylinder. I've got a full detailed write-up on my swap http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/swap.html

here's some pics from my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

I replied to your other thread.

I don't have any of the transmission manual scanned, and I don't believe the guy I got the engine & engine electrical from does either. Is there anything in particular your looking for? If you're getting a duty B solenoid error code, I'd check the wiring going to the duty b solenoid and see what the resistance is. I can then compare that to what the manual says. These scans should help you determine which pins are the duty b solenoid http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TCU_I-O_page2.jpg Some of these electrical diagrams may help as well. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html The duty b solenoid handles torque converter lockup. The car will work, and drive, you'll just get worse gas mileage and performance because the torque converter isn't locking up.

You could try spraying starting fluid around some of the hoses and see if the idle revs up. Does it run poorly at idle, or only when driving around? You may also want to post your question on www.bbs.legacycentral.org

I think if you get the entire spring/strut & strut top mounts, they should fit.

Backing plate....is this on the front or rear? If they're what I'm thinking of, the front's just bolt on....shouldn't cost you more then a few bucks from the junkyard. The rears need to be pressed on. As long as the hub/backing plate that the parking brake bolts onto is not falling apart, I'd just leave it. If it's just the shroud surrounding the rotor, don't worry about it. I chiseled mine off to fit larger rotors.

Glad you got it fixed up!

There should be a little clip you can depress, and the connector should come off. Just be patient with them.

The newer models have both speed sensors on the transmission, not in the dash, and yes speedo & cc will both not work if the speedo don't work. If your speedo was out for long enough it would affect the transmission shifting, and the lockup of the torque converter. Eventually the fans would stay on as well. It takes a few miles for this to happen though.

here's a link to photo album for easy viewing http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/photos/showphoto.php?photo=3858&sort=1&cat=500&page=1

I'd definitely agree with archemitis, get the car going/running, see how the brakes are, and go from there. I actually had a pretty good brake setup on my stock legacy brakes. I ran performance friction carbon metallic pads. These things were great pulling the car down from higher speeds. The main drawback from the stock setup was the rotors were too small and just couldn't sink, and dissipate heat fast enough. Looking back at things now, cryo-treated rotors probably would have helped the rotors last longer.

There are few vendors that sell turbo kits if you want to go that route. Other option is to swap in a turbo motor from another turbo subaru. You're better off getting AGX struts then putting WRX struts on. Wheels, there's actually quite a bit out there now. Anything for the WRX should fit. I wouldn't really recommend going larger then 17, and would probably recommend going with 16" Wheels definitely and dramatically change the appearence of the car. You can swap a turbo hood over from a 92-94 turbo legacy. The 91's are different. You won't find much if anything in terms of bumpers

The newer models don't have a mechanical cable going from the transmission to the combination meter. They have a speed sensor, and relay that info back to the combination meter where the motor in the combination unit makes the speedo turn. It's possible some dirt or other gunk got in there and the speed sensor can't read the gear. Or it might be an electrical issue. Without diagnosing some more, it'd be a little hard to pin point it.

There's not much stuff out there specifically for the first gen legacies, however mechanical stuff from newer models can sometimes be swapped over. What kind of stuff are you looking to upgrade? Feel free to check out my site, and what I've done with my legacy, as well as www.bbs.legacycentral.org

Michael, I'd be very curious to know whether this works! I've currently got 205/45 r16's on my legacy. The speedo is off about 6% at 60mph, and going to the wrx sized tire 205/55 r16 would put it about where it needs to be. However I'd like to go wider, and 225/50 r16 would be nice...if it fit. I currently have the Goodyear GS-D3's and have been extremely happy with them, and would like to get them again. They do offer them in the 225 size. Another plus, they tend to run a little narrower compared to other 225's. So that may help. I probably won't be looking to replace mine for a little while, so if you do decide to go with the 225's, I'd like to know how they, if they fit.

Are the XT6 calipers 2 pot calipers? Are you current calipers single pot calipers? Do you or anyone have any information regarding piston sizes of the calipers for your car and the XT6, and possibly MC bore sizes? If you have all that info, it's pretty easy to come up with an answer whether you need to mess with swapping your MC or not. Does your car have the same bolt pattern as the Legacy? I'd also recommend against cross-drilled rotors. I wrote up this article a while ago, but the information in it is still good http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/brakes.html Here's a excel spreadsheet with some sizing info on calipers, MC's, etc that I created when I was trying to figure out what to swap over on my brake work. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls

You really don't have to worry about any fluid dynamics. The main thing you need to take into consideration when swapping calipers is volume requirements. How much fluid are these calipers going to use compared to my old ones. If it is a small amount, you can probably get away with leaving your MC alone. However if volume requirements increase enough, a larger bore MC is needed to meet those volume demands.

This is sort of true. You are correct in saying that output pressure of a larger bore MC will be less with a known input force, when compared to a smaller bore MC with the same known input force. As far as saying the brakes will be less effective, I'll have to disagree with that. Almost all, if not all production cars have over boosted brakes, especially the newer 90+ subarus. The older ones may not be as bad, but the brake booster still provides plenty of assist. The end result would actually be a better feeling brake pedal. A side benefit would be brake lockup would require a more pedal force, which is usually good.

I was looking through some diagrams last night, and both pins of the fuel pump relay are actually tied to the ecu http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical1.jpg

The MC will not affect bias in any way. A larger/smaller MC will affect pedal travel mostly, and feel slightly. To answer your question, more then likely the WRX will not work. Where do the brake lines come out on your current MC? To the side and to the bottom? Do you have ABS? If you have ABS, you probably have them only to the side. If you have upgraded to larger calipers, and are having issues with pedal travel being too much, you could probably upgrade to a legacy MC. If you can give me some more details on your current setup, and what you want to change, I can help you size things properly. I've essentially redesigned my entire brake system. The only thing left stock is the hard lines.

Got some more info. I wonder if the MPFI diode got messed up. It's tied into the ignition lead going to the alternator. The other thing I could think of after looking at the diagrams is the ECU might be tweaked. You need to do some more testing. Other thing I can think of if the fuse box has some fried stuff some where. Here's some wiring diagrams that should help out a lot. Diode location http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location12.jpg ECU I-O http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page3.jpg Power supply routing (you can see the outputs from the alternator here) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_power_supply_routing1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_power_supply_routing2.jpg Engine Electrical (last 2 aren't pertinent, but to be complete) http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical2.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical3.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical4.jpg

Glen, he's not talking about the main lead going to the battery. He's talking about the larger white wire in the plug that goes to the alternator. The newer alternators do not have this ignition lead. That wire should only have power when the ignition is on.