Legacy777

There's bound to be some bubbles, but there shouldn't be tons The ATF fluid should be dextron III.

Overfilling isn't horrible horrible.....but it's not good. To properly check the level, get the trans to operating temp, drive for 5 miles or so. Park on a level surface. With the engine running, slowly cycle the gear selector from park to 1 and then back up to park. With the engine still running, check the AT fluid level on the dipstick and verify that the level is between the H & C marks for the "hot" side. Depending on where the level is, you'll want to add/take away fluid.

I had a similar issue....turned out to be the MAF sensor, however I would check/replace your spark plugs & wires, fuel filter, and maybe run a tank of injector cleaner through.

Does the 4-wire tps not fit on the 3-wire throttle shaft? I'm not sure where the idle switch on the three wire throttle bodies are, or if there is one. If there is one, you'd just wire it to pin 1 meant for the 4 wire tps, and then wire the remaiming 3 wires to the 3-wire tps. If there is no idle switch, you have to get a 4-wire throttle body.

Go to my site and read the instructions on how to pull the codes from the ECU. More then likely it's the temp sensor.

Trust me, with that kind of mileage they are worn out. If you put new struts on, you'll be surprised at the difference. If KYB makes GR2's for the outbacks, I'd suggest them.

Actually the 4-wire tps has the idle switch built into the sensor. The 3-wire sensor does not have the idle switch built into the sensor. You should try and find a 4-wire tps. Here's a pic of the 4-wire tps. You can see the idle switch point http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/Chiltons/TPS.jpg

The thing is....I really don't see that many differences in the wiring setup. There are some things that I see the AWD has that the FWD doesn't have, but I don't see how that would be affecting things. Check out some of the wiring diagrams on the electrical portion of my swap page http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html

There's a joint right under the rear seat of the car. Undo that, and you can separate the two sections. If that is the original muffler, and you have a fair amount of mileage on the car, you might as well just get a new muffler section that is prebent, and all you'd have to do is bolt it up. It's something you could do yourself in an hour, or an exhaust shop to be able to bolt up in 30 min or less.

So you pretty much just dropped the old AWD tranny out, stuck the FWD one in, and plugged the harnnesses up.....correct? I know this may sound like a silly question, but did the FWD transmission work fine when it was in your car?

There are some minor electrical/wiring changes between the 90-91's & the 92-94's. For example the main engine wiring harness uses three plugs on the 90-91's vs two on the 92-94's. Despite the small issues, you should be fine in swapping the motor over and dealing with the small issues.

You are probably going to need a FWD TCU.

Welcome to the board Melissa. Is colombo your last name? I ask because it's mine

check out www.subaru-svx.net you can buy a 5spd conversion kit from these guys http://www.smallcar.com/svx/index.htm

I'd check with some of the guys in New Zealand. I don't know of any new zealand specific subaru boards off the top of my head, but I'm sure there is some out there. They have gotten the twin turbo imports from japan as well. As for the code reading. I "think" that all manufacturers went to OBD2, including overseas models. If that's the case, you should be able to purchase any OBD2 scan tool, and read the codes yourself.

If you do that....it's probably going to play hell with the TCU since the TCU will be looking for AWD stuff. I suppose you could give it a try and see how it works out.

All the first gen legacies/liberties have the same problem. The shaft that the visor is on is made out of plastic, and uses a cornered edge to keep the visor up. Over time, this edge wears, and the visor won't stay up. I've tried mucking with it, and never really got it to work properly. I ended up buying a new visor.

I'd be curious what the exact engine code that he's getting is. Also, it's possible that a vacuum hose is weak and leaking. Other possibilities could be fuel injectors, ignition, spark plugs, etc. The first thing I'd probably do is a basic tune up, filters, plugs, etc. Give the engine a basic once over.

picture is worth a thousand words http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG It's the brown connector sensor.

Your coolant temp sensor might not be functioning properly...or possibly the thermostat. One other thing might be the concentration of antifreeze & water mix you have in there. If it's more then 50/50, the system may not be transferring as much heat as it needs to, and the fans are staying on.

The fans should cycle on and off, however the fans will stay on all the time if the hvac selector is on either of the A/C selections or on the defrost setting.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22828&highlight=yellow+headlight

He's talking about the car, not the box ones. If I didn't have my truck as a second vehicle, I'd entertain getting a tC. It'd be a nice get around town car.

If subaru sells a bunch of these....who's to blame subaru for wanting to make money??? Plus if they do sell a lot of them, and have extra money, there more then likely to use on other projects or performance oriented stuff.

It's the automatic seat belt computer http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location06.jpg