Legacy777

Does the CEL stay on, or is it off, and those were the codes that showed up? What I'd do is clear the codes, drive the car for a little bit, and see what codes come back. That will help narrow down what the culprit might be.

might be the coolant temp sensor.

It depends if it's the speed sensor or if it's the gauge cluster. Usually the ECU will accept some margin of error when it comes to not receiving a speed sensor signal. However if it goes on too long, you will get a CEL. The AWD won't work either.

Do a compression test. Add a squirt of oil to the cylinders and then check again. If the pressure is the same, then more then likely it's the valve guides. As for it cutting out. Only thing I can think of is that your hitting fuel cut. Everything worked out good with the tranny swap. It's done and up and running. I've got a write-up for it, if you want to take a look. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

It has rear discs.

Lookin nice Ken.

Have you checked compression ratio? How many miles are on the car? What's your gas mileage like?

Yeah, probably the speed sensor.

Hmm....I wouldn't think engine speed signal would cause the issues you are seeing. I guess what I'd want to see is a wiring diagram, and make sure the engine speed signal is coming from that one wire from the ECU. I'd then verify that wire is good. It might be that the engine speed signal is just a bad code when it freaks out. Yeah I'd suggest checking the ECU codes, and see if anything correlates.

I thought I had an email with the part #, but I can't find it. Email oxygensensors.com and just ask them. They should be able to help you out.

I'd reset the computers, and see if the codes come back. If they do, you're going to most likely need to replace them. The O2 sensor isn't super urgent to replace, but I'd do it at some time. The MAF sensor is probably what is causing the stalling. Check that wire and see if it's good. If it's not, you might want to replace it, reset the ECU, and then check to see if the MAF sensor is throwing a code.

Try this link http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg If that don't work, try this https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/transbrakebandadj.jpg https://www.mail.experiencetherave.com/subaru_manual_scans/Subaru_Service_Bulletins/1991/4EAT_FWD_and_4WD_Brake_Band_Adjustment_On_Car_Servicing.pdf

teague's sells maf adapters www.boxer4racing.com

Try again. I've been having issues with my server. I had a real close lightning hit the other week, and I think it might have fried my router. I spent last night reconfiguring the router, and trying to get my laptop NIC to work properly. I think I may have issues with my cable provider, but I'm not sure which issue is causing the intermittant issues.

In reality....there's really nothing you can do that won't adversely affect how the car runs. Remove the snorkel in the fender if you haven't. That's super cheap (free), and should make the car feel a little more peppy.

I can understand clutch issues....but what's up with needing two new pistons??

I'm pretty sure the 2-3 shift is controled by the brake band, so it may need to be adjusted.

Cam sensor is located on the driver's side, just behind the cam pulley http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2699.JPG Crank sensor is located just below the alternator http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2703.JPG More pics for your viewing pleasure http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt This should also help http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/elect_unit_loc/6-3_electrical_unit_location10.jpg

I'm assuming you have a first gen legacy 90-94 with MT. I would probably ignore code 12. The hard starting symptoms are analogous to a bad temp sensor, which is code 21. They can be had for about 20 bucks or so at www.1stsubaru.com I'd start with that and see how things work.

Being that your car is carburated and has a distributor, that brings a lot more things into play that could be causing it. Unfortunately, I'm not super familar with subaru engines that are carburated. I'd probably start with the fuel filter, maybe spray some carb cleaner in there. One of the jets might be plugged. You should probably check the distributer cap & rotor for wear, as well as check ignition timing. PCV = positive crankcase valve. I doubt this would cause your problem though.

Look at this scan http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AT_front_differential.jpg item 13 is the speedo drive gear.

Gotta be an axle. The speedo is driven off the differential gear. So if the speedo is working, that means the tranny is moving and working.

steady blinking means no codes. Mine does what you describe occasionally with the idle. I chalk it up to the idle air control valve freakin out. It's not really a big deal...so I just live with it. Your other issue is regarding the tie rods. They are supposed to be able to pivot back and forth. As long as they don't have slop, they should be fine.

the 90-94 legacies had dual port heads. The 2.5 headers will work, however you will need to have a shop work up a custom pipe to fit how the angle of the header dumps into the intermidiate pipe where the cats are. Ultimately, you'd probably have to replace the section where the cats are.

I really doubt you'd be able to use a WRX MAF. Different MAF sensors have different levels of flow and a corresponding transfer function/lookup table in the ECU. Because of this, swapping MAF's isn't really something you can do.