Legacy777

IMO, all you really need is the crank seal, cam seals, oil pump o-ring, timing belt, and if you want, replace the tensioner. If the idler pullies have issues or if there are other things that don't look right, you should probably replace those as well, but typically you don't know that kind of stuff until you take the timing belt covers off.

I would suspect the diff....but not sure what in the diff. Have you tried applying the brakes and accelerating? That would probably give you some more confidence about whether it was specifically the diff or transmission.

No it's not. The turbo legacy oil pump outputs more pressure due to the oil squirters.

probably the coolant temp sensor. Read the codes from the ECU. Instructions can be found on my site.

They're both oxygen sensors. The first oxygen sensor sends information to the ECU for a/f ratio control. The second oxygen sensor is a catalytic converter efficiency monitor. The second oxygen sensor is not really necessary to run, but it will throw a check engine light.

please continue discussion in the original thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34407

This was posted in OT http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34407 Please continue the discussion there. Thanks

The thing about this kit....and the reason I haven't gotten one is that it removes it lift from the suspension geometry. There's actually anti-dive built into the stock suspension setup. With the anti-lift kit, you remove the anti-dive. So the car has the tendancy to dive more under braking and what not. The increase in the amount of dive is said not to be much, and the amount will definitely depend on your suspension setup. I will probably just be replacing that rear link with an upgraded link that is stock in geometry, but has the stiffer bushing.

yup, check codes, and tell us what you find out. Instructions for checking the codes can be found on my site.

welcome. yeah I still need the turbo ECU....it didn't pan out

good deal

Read the article I wrote up. It gives you the jist of why I don't recommend drilled rotors. The summary of it is....a rotor is a heat sink....the more material there is, the more heat it can hold. Drilled rotors remove material from the rotor, and reduce the amount of heat it can absorb. I go into more details in my writeup what the purposes of cross-drilling & slotting are for, but the majority of the reasons they originally used that technology was the brake pads. Brake pads have come a long way, and those original reasons why they used slotting & cross-drilling aren't really an issue any more.

I haven't done this, but I've looked into it. I'm pretty sure there's a write up on scoobymods, and some more info on nasioc. May want to try looking there as well.

Any of the FWD differentials should work.

the ECU is the MPFI unit.

For a street car.....neither. If you must have something, I'd go slotted. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/brakes.html I'd actually recommend cryo-treating the rotors over anything.

read my swap writeup www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap Granted I added awd, but that was relatively easy. There is a lot of components and things you need to take into consideration. It's not super difficult, but it is time consuming, and the challenge is keeping track of everything, and knowing exactly what to do. You will have more issues with electronics because it is OBD2.

subaru has been using the ej20 motor since at least 1990. It's gone through revisions, but it is a very stable platform. In stock form, I haven't really heard too many issues. If people start upping boost or playing around, I have heard of issues.....

Remember there is a difference in the rear springs & top mounts between the 90-91 & 92-94 legacies. However that's not really an issue. All the 90-94 AWD rear struts are interchangeable, and will bolt up to your rear knuckle. However, like the KYB guy said, there are some height differences between the model years. The 95-99 rear struts will mount up to the knuckle, I don't care what the KYB guy said. I can't however comment on the perch height/ride height.......so that you'll have to deal with. Bottom line....get rear AWD struts and the springs to go with them, and bolt them up. If it sits sort of weird afterwards, you then know you may need to play around with the different struts to get your ride height correct.

Ok, I looked at the fsm. The speed sensors are located on the driver's side of the transmission towards the rear. There are actually three. The rear most one, located on the rear extension housing is the vehicle speed sensor 1. The next one front and near the top of the rear of the main transmission case is the vehicle speed sensor 2. The furthest one forward is the torque converter turbine speed sensor.

One way you could check is jack the car up off of all four wheels, put the fuse in and see if you can stop the rear wheels from spinning....or see if they're not spinning at all. Gently applying the ebrake would be the easiest way to accomplish this. If the motor doesn't bog or speed start to slow down, then you know that's what the fuse is for. Try the test again, but this time with the fuse out. Don't hold the ebrake on very long with the fuse out.....it's bad.

Rear struts on a FWD car are different then the rear struts on an AWD car, and are not compatible. There's a possibility that the strut top mounts and possibly the springs are different as well. I don't know for sure. I'd really try and find struts, springs, & top hats from an AWD car. The struts you picked up will connect to the knuckle in the front....that's not a problem. If you pick up KYB struts....get the ones for the 92-94 legacy. I would highly recommend getting 4 struts rather then just 2. You can severely alter the handling characteristics of the vehicle. I speak from experience, and it can cause the rear end of the car to spin out a lot easier, etc.

with how the MPT designed automatic transmission AWD system is, adding a fuse will not make it 50/50 torque split. The only way to get 50/50 all the time is if the duty c solenoid completely fails.

Please do not start more then one thread of the same question. If you have further questions, or didn't get your original question answered, please address it in your original thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=34447 thanks

You should be able to check the codes yourself. I'm pretty sure the 94 impreza was still OBD1. The procedure should be the same as the legacy, and instructions are on my site. As for not leaving codes....yeah I've heard of it happening.....but I'd suggest checking the codes yourself.