Legacy777

I can replace the starter in probably an hour. Give or take 30 min. It should take a professional mechanic around the same time if all he's doing is swapping an old starter out for the new one. As for the quality...more then likely the starter pep boys sells was a subaru one that was rebuilt. If it has a good warranty, I wouldn't worry about it.

there's some fuel lines that run near there, but nothing with oil.

no, the 93 doesn't. 91 was the only year there was a VLSD.

They don't have anything different then what the rest of the cars have.

may want to try the svx network. They'd probably be able to give you definitive answers www.subaru-svx.net

Just put antifreeze in.

You may want to install one, see if it fixes the problem, and then install the other. If you install both at the same time, and your problem is gone, you won't know which one fixed it.

It's all the same. I could stick an impreza front or rear hub on my legacy and it'd be no problem. I'm pretty sure even a brand new wrx hub would be interchangable.

You can try a generic O2 sensor from www.oxygensensors.com or get one from a subaru dealership. You may want to try www.1stsubaru.com or www.subaruparts.com for discounted prices. As for the rotor issue, the rotor's aren't "warping" per say. Check out this article http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/warped_rotors_myth.htm I've also got a write-up about cross-drilled/slotted rotors. Personally, I would say the issue is the type of pads that are on there. They are lower end or lower temp pads, and when used heavily on mtn roads, they can overheat and leave pad deposits, which can cause brake shudder. First thing I'd do is clean the rotors with some emry cloth or sand paper to get rid of the pad deposits. See if that helps, if it does, and the issue comes back, you may want to look into more performance oriented pads with a higher temp range.

Have you checked to see if there are any codes stored in the ECU? You can find instructions on how to pull the codes from my site. As for the starting issue, it's probably the coolant temp sensor. It's a $20 sensor at www.1stsubaru.com or www.subaruparts.com so I would suggest starting there. It may also fix your power issue. As for the grinding in the transmission. Is there any slop in the shifter linkage? Have you changed the fluid recently? It's probably the syncro, if that's the case, there's probably not much you can do unless you rebuild the engine.

Here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2721.JPG

That's not right. The oil cooler does not go into the oil pump. The pump is different on the turbo legacy. It outputs a higher pressure due to the fact it has oil squirters in the block.

I'd probably suggest replacing the O2 sensor, especially if it's giving a code for it. Not sure it will cure the problem, but it'd be good to replace it with that many miles.

yeah it's a pain in the butt getting the torque converter in. There's a thread or two about this on www.bbs.legacycentral.org There is a seal cup piece on the end of the shaft that needs to be put back in the pump shaft, and getting that in can be a real pain.

1stsubaru and subaruparts are the main places I know that have parts catalogue. I don't know if they're going to have stuff back that old though.

No, the 2.2 in the 95 is different then the 2.2 in the 90. There are too many little things that changed, but the big thing is that the 95 has single exhaust port heads, larger valves (both intake & exhaust) different lifters, and some other stuff as well.

Have you tried to pull the ECU codes? I'd suggest the coolant temp sensor first.

it's pretty simple. Typically if you let the car sit overnight the pressure in the fuel system will go away. The filter is next to the driver's front strut tower. You just unscrew the clamps holding the lines on, put the new one on, and tighten the clamps.

what is the oil sandwich adapter?

they're all the same size.

where exactly is the oil on the cover, directly in front of the center of the engine, or off to the side. You really don't have to remove the radiator, just the fans. You'll need to take off the crank pulley, and probably should replace the timing belt since it's now coated in oil. It's not too bad a job

IMO, all you really need is the crank seal, cam seals, oil pump o-ring, timing belt, and if you want, replace the tensioner. If the idler pullies have issues or if there are other things that don't look right, you should probably replace those as well, but typically you don't know that kind of stuff until you take the timing belt covers off.

I would suspect the diff....but not sure what in the diff. Have you tried applying the brakes and accelerating? That would probably give you some more confidence about whether it was specifically the diff or transmission.

No it's not. The turbo legacy oil pump outputs more pressure due to the oil squirters.

probably the coolant temp sensor. Read the codes from the ECU. Instructions can be found on my site.