Legacy777

What do you mean the gas pedal feels spongy? If you can monitor data, that would be a good way to try and determine what's going on. Can you monitor more then one thing?

You might want to contact the dealer, and see what info, if any was stored into the computer when it was sold. They should be able to do this via your VIN number.

I don't know if haynes or chiltons has anything. Shoot me a pm, I've got something that might help. As for the subs.....I think they have an amp built in. Personally, I'd just scrap them, and add an external amp and sub. At this point, you're probably going to be better off getting an aftermarket deck that has rca outputs.

To be quite honest, without knowing the high side pressure, it's hard to say whether it's the switch or the fact the system is generating too much pressure. My nissan pickup cycles on and off too frequently. When I checked the low side pressure, things looked ok, but the high side was too high. I'm pretty sure it's overcharged. I'm planning to just evacuate everything, clean the system out, put the specified amount of oil back in, and recharge the system. Personally, I'd just take it to a shop that will give you an ac system diagnosis for a specified amount of money. Most shops will do that. I had mine looked over for like 30 bucks or something. Other option is to buy the manifold gauges, which is about 100 bucks. Then, if you want to do the work yourself, you need a vacuum pump as well.

So you had someone push the throttle all the way, and you could still turn the throttle plate by hand to its fully opened position? I think there's a cable adjustment, that's what needs to be adjusted. If it can't be adjusted properly, you'll need to purchase a new throttle cable.

The black connector is the ECU check connector. When it's connected The check engine light will blink with the codes stored in the ECU, or if no codes are present, it will flash in a steady interval.

How do you know the AWD is not working?

If you want increased longevity out of rotors, get them croyo-treated. I've been extremely happy with mine.

ehh, I don't see any reason why an aftermarket belt wouldn't work.

The first gen legacies had non-interference engines, so you should be good to go by just slapping a new t-belt on. Only other things I'd look at are the oil seals, possibly replacing the water pump, and resealing the oil pump (depending on when the last time they were done). You may want to check the timing belt tensioner as well. See if it's leaking or anything out of the normal. The belt's failure could possible be due to the tensioner not providing enough force to keep the belt tight.

Big thing with brakes is what type of environment do you plan to use the car in.....that will help you in determining how much you want to spend. My personal advice, for a street driven car that you just want some extra braking capability, put better pads on. It's relatively inexpensive, and can really improve stopping capability over stock pads. Here's the spreadsheet I did that jamal was talking about. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/brakemath.xls

Are you sure it's not a charge issue, rather then the switch issue?

I don't know for sure whether the 96 has an electronic or cable driven speedo. But check around the area where the front differential dipstick is. On the cable driven speedos, there's a base piece that fails, and causes the speedo not to work. The VSS2, which gives you your speed in the dash and to the ECU is typically driven from the front differential.

I suppose it's possible if the front O2 sensor was out, and the car was running very rich for a long time, that you might cause premature wear of the catalyst. Having the rear one go out, and not replacing it, isn't as big a deal.

More then likely you can probably just get the bracket that holds the caliper. This will move the mounting position of the caliper further out, so it accepts the larger rotor. People with the 2001 RS's will do this very thing to fit WRX front brakes on. Buy the larger rotor and the caliper bracket.

Thanks Ed. I think the only thing I would probably do different is use PAG oil instead of esther. I've had one compressor go out on me. I don't know if it was just coincidence.......and the compressor I have in now is knocking. I don't know if it's due to the fact esther oil doesn't lubricate as well as PAG oil, or the fact that the guy who pulled a vacuum on the system, didn't do it long enough. I might just be having bad luck with used compressors. I've got my own set of gauges and vacuum pump, so I know it'll be done right the next time. I'm probably going to swap out the compressor when I do my motor swap some time this summer. That or when the current compressor craps out, I'll swap it out.

selectable 4x4? All the newer subaru's had full time awd. Anyway, the imprezas a pretty good car, a little more base model then the legacy, but a good car still.

Can you provide any more details....which wheel? anything?

Do you have an auto or manual tranny?

I think 3500 is good if it's in good condition. If it's moderate condition, I probably wouldn't pay more then 3k at the most. Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org for tons of info about the turbo legacy.

What model subaru do you have? All the "newer" subarus either have a distributeless or coil on plug ignition system. For the distributeless ignitions you can use the MSD Dis 2 ignition system. For the coil on plug ignitions, you really can't do anything. The rev limiter option is there, however you can't increase the rev limit because the ECU has its own rev limiter. You'd have to bypass it first.

When's the last time you've used the A/C? Did it work fine then? From what you described it sounds like the system is either under or over charged. It'd probably be worth taking it to a shop for an a/c diagnostic.

No it doesn't have to come from a 2.5. Any 4.111 tranny with a "push" style clutch will work.

You can remove the oil pump, replace the o-ring and reseal it. You can also remove the backing plate and check that the clearences between the rotors are within spec.If that is good.....you probably need to replace the lifters. They may have been gummed up due to infrequent oil changes.

It'll bolt up.....the electronics however is a little more difficult.