Legacy777

On the MT's. Power is transferred to the driven shaft, which then transfer power to the center diff where it's then transferred to the drive pinion shaft for the front and transfer drive gear for the rear. So yeah, it drives both front and rear. Here's a scan that might help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWDMT_description.jpg

I finally got around to tearing into the ej22t motor I picked up a few months ago. It's an oil piggy. I got it taken apart down to the long block. I should have the heads off tomorrow. Here's pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/2

Unfortunately we didn't get that model in the states, or were even able to get it.....so I don't know how much info you'll find. There are a few people from new zealand that are on the board I believe. They may be able to chime in.

Have you done any work on the oil pump? It's possible that the o-ring that seals between the block and engine is worn, or that the screws on the backing plate of the oil pump have come loose. This would cause it longer for the oil pressure to build up.

I wonder if your timing belt broke. Pull one of the end plastic pieces off that surround the timing belt. There's three screws, and it should come off. Make sure the timing belt is still intact.

check tranny fluid, see if it's brown or smells burnt. Do a couple figure 8's in a parking lot and see how it feels.

I don't remember if there's any adjustment on the pedal or not, but you still had room to adjust it at the cable. Like I said, I wouldn't adjust it too much because you'll be putting pressure on clutch fork when the pedal is fully released.

welcome

yeah the sti's are just crazy

I had a different whistling problem, which turned out to be a leak in the muffler. So that is possible.

Another vote for the thermostat. Replace it and see how things act. Also, make sure you use a subaru tstat. Myself and others have had issues with non subaru tstats.

The 95 engine had single port exhaust heads, some changes to valve size, and valvetrain setup, as well as some other stuff here and there.

There is a check valve that wears, and it allows fluid to drain out of the torque converter. Supposedly it is on the outside of the tranny, and can be replaced. I can not confirm that, nor tell you how difficult it'd be.

Check out the legacy forum on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums They should be able to tell you.

Subaru doesn't have their stuff straight. I've seen far more then 15 91's myself.....let alone everyone else.

these pics should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors Coolant temp sensor http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG Oil pressure sender http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2480.JPG

You need to align the pullies and crank to the proper timing marks and then reinstall the belt.

I wouldn't recommend running two air struts and two normal struts. Just replace all the air struts with conventional struts and springs.

With how the car drives, I just can't see it being a clutch issue. With how it was driven, if it were a clutch issue, it would have slipped. Like Russ said, we're at a loss as to what the problem is.

You really can't clean the evap box out just through the hole for the resister pack. I guess you could look in, and see how icky it is though

remove glove box, look at resister pack straight ahead, remove it, insert new one, and reassemble. it's very easy. here's a good pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/accomp/DCP_2945.JPG

Is the check engine light on? You might want to see if there's any codes stored in the ECU. Instructions are on my site under the notes & tips, engine related section.

You really need to get all the old oil out of the system. Mineral oil does not mix with PAG oil and does not work with R12. The receiver/drier should get replaced, but it's not mandetory. Other then that, you can pretty much just dump oil & 134a in, and let 'er rip.

it's normal, don't worry about it.

I'd suggest replacing your coolant temp sensor. They're not overly expensive, and can really affect how the engine runs.