Legacy777

I wonder if your timing belt broke. Pull one of the end plastic pieces off that surround the timing belt. There's three screws, and it should come off. Make sure the timing belt is still intact.

check tranny fluid, see if it's brown or smells burnt. Do a couple figure 8's in a parking lot and see how it feels.

I don't remember if there's any adjustment on the pedal or not, but you still had room to adjust it at the cable. Like I said, I wouldn't adjust it too much because you'll be putting pressure on clutch fork when the pedal is fully released.

welcome

yeah the sti's are just crazy

I had a different whistling problem, which turned out to be a leak in the muffler. So that is possible.

Another vote for the thermostat. Replace it and see how things act. Also, make sure you use a subaru tstat. Myself and others have had issues with non subaru tstats.

The 95 engine had single port exhaust heads, some changes to valve size, and valvetrain setup, as well as some other stuff here and there.

There is a check valve that wears, and it allows fluid to drain out of the torque converter. Supposedly it is on the outside of the tranny, and can be replaced. I can not confirm that, nor tell you how difficult it'd be.

Check out the legacy forum on nasioc http://forums.nasioc.com/forums They should be able to tell you.

Subaru doesn't have their stuff straight. I've seen far more then 15 91's myself.....let alone everyone else.

these pics should help http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors Coolant temp sensor http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG Oil pressure sender http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2480.JPG

You need to align the pullies and crank to the proper timing marks and then reinstall the belt.

I wouldn't recommend running two air struts and two normal struts. Just replace all the air struts with conventional struts and springs.

With how the car drives, I just can't see it being a clutch issue. With how it was driven, if it were a clutch issue, it would have slipped. Like Russ said, we're at a loss as to what the problem is.

You really can't clean the evap box out just through the hole for the resister pack. I guess you could look in, and see how icky it is though

remove glove box, look at resister pack straight ahead, remove it, insert new one, and reassemble. it's very easy. here's a good pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/accomp/DCP_2945.JPG

Is the check engine light on? You might want to see if there's any codes stored in the ECU. Instructions are on my site under the notes & tips, engine related section.

You really need to get all the old oil out of the system. Mineral oil does not mix with PAG oil and does not work with R12. The receiver/drier should get replaced, but it's not mandetory. Other then that, you can pretty much just dump oil & 134a in, and let 'er rip.

it's normal, don't worry about it.

I'd suggest replacing your coolant temp sensor. They're not overly expensive, and can really affect how the engine runs.

Just to add, here's pics from my timing belt job. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt That should give you an idea of what needs to be removed. Also, if you have a visible leak, it's probably the sealent between the pump and block. The ultra grey silicone is the correct silicone to use.

I believe cobb tuning www.cobbtuning.com might have something, the access port.

They are supposed to be UNPLUGGED.

The late 90's 2.5 GT's did have some issues with head gasket failures. However it's really quite random. Some people have had no problems, while others have had. You may want to check out the legacy forum on nasioc too http://forums.nasioc.com/forums