Legacy777

It's for a 92, but should be the same http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/

Yeah I have impreza RS strut bars on my legacy. The front fit without modification. The rear required a little bending of the plate to angle it correctly

I don't quite understand what you're asking. Can you provide some clarification.

knock sensor is the thing with the white connector http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

It probably won't stay tightened because the torque spec in the manuals are incorrect. It should be torqued to about 120 ft/lbs

4 posts down will have a link to where you purchase the contacts from http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=2447&page=9&pp=10&highlight=start+secret

You have to buy subaru pads in order to get new shims.....

If it's still sealed up, the only entry point is the vent lines. If you change both the diff & at trans fluid when you get it, I don't think you'll have any issues. For more precaution, after you have it in the car and driven around for a couple hundred miles, change the fluid again.

That's pretty damn cool!!

It's really not that hard to change out the diff if you have the right tools and know how. If you have limited mechanical knowledge, I don't know if I'd recommend doing it yourself since some parts can be a little tricky. I believe there are newer AT's with a 4.111 final drive ratio. However if you go too new, then you run into wiring differences. I'd say if you can't a 4.111 trans, but you can find a 3.90 one, just swap the rear diff. I don't think labor costs would sky rocket.

I'm not saying it's not a headgasket issue, however I would recommend bleeding the system using the bleed screw if you haven't already done that.

nice! Did you pick it up from another board member?

Are you getting heat from the vents? There is an air bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator that needs to be unscrewed to allow air to be bled of the system.

Do you get a check engine light or anything when the speedometer doesn't work?

It'd be less work if I wasn't completely rebuilding the motor, but for me, I might as well. You could always buy a built motor... Still, I think the motor swap will be much less work then the AWD & 5spd swap http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

What year legacy? Here's factory scans for the SOHC 2.2 http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg Also, here's pics from my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt

Your ISP probably blocks port 8080, that or you're using a proxy server on that port.

It's not that the tranny changed.....they just changed the final drive ratio and some of the gearing. I believe 1st & 2nd is different. 3rd & 4th are the same.

The key itself should have the key code on it as well. I didn't have luck with the door lock.

You can put some disc quieter stuff on the back of the brake pads. I'd say the noise you are hearing is pretty common. What happens is the pad vibrates with light pedal pressure, mostly due to them not fitting real tight. With the goop on the back of the pad, it helps absorb the noise from pads.

I probably posted various pics before, but I made a page that I'll be updating as I go along. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/ I split the block today, and cleaned the crank up. The rod bearings definitely need to be replaced. The crank bearings are ok, but I'm going to replace them anyway. I need to get the cylinders honed, and I'll be set to put her back together

You don't need to pull the motor to do the head gasket. It does make it a hell of a lot easier though.

The r134a systems, you should be able to add refrigerant yourself. Unless you can get a hold of R12, you'll have to take it somewhere, or convert it to 134a. I've got a write up on here. I wouldn't recommend mixing refrigerents. Never heard of 414b.

Is the bolt positioning where the crossmember bolts to the chassis the same on both sides? If not, then the chassis is probably tweaked, and there's probably not much you can do. A frame pulling machine might make it a little better, but I doubt it'd be perfect.

The older cars had the two temp sensors. The large one went to the ECU. The smaller just went to the gauge, and has no effect in how the car runs.