Legacy777

Just use a very small amount of blue locktite on the oil pump screws. use blue on the crank pulley bolt as well, not red. Wouldn't recommend using anti-sieze though.

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/VIN_decode.jpg

95 was the year they supposedly swapped, however there seems to be a few 95's with the dual ports running around. You can look at the header pipe and tell right away if it's dual or single port.

You'd be better to find one from a first gen legacy, 90-94. However it would "probably" work. I'd suggest recharging with 134a. I've posted a thread about converting to 134a, and would suggest you take a look at that. Search for 134a and my name.

So all you did was install the CC? What wiring did you have to modify to get the cruise installed?

The factory manuals don't list a cfm. I doubt you'll find that info. It does list the motor wattage at 120 W

There's no reason for them to buy any sort of gasket kit to do those three things. The rear main seal is 10 bucks, tops. The rear cover they're talking about is more then likely the yellow looking thing on the right of the engine bell housing http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/DCP_3992.JPG It just takes rtv silicone to seal it. 4 bucks....tops. Oil pan is the same thing, uses rtv silicone to seal it. So to do those three things, the materials should not have exceeded $30-$40 at the VERY most. Get your car back, see exactly what it says they did on the invoice and let us know once you get it back and I can tell you if it's bogus or not

What work were you having done? Unless they were rebuilding the motor, there was no reason to buy the engine rebuild gasket kit. Where in Houston are you? What shop did you take it to?

He needs to clarify which lights he's talking about, and whether they dim, or if they turn off completely. As I said, the lights and other accessories turn off when the key is in the start position.

Glen's correct. The headlights, radio, acc, etc turn off when the ignition is in the start position. I'm telling you...it's the contacts.

the sunsport was just a special edition of the normal 94 wagon. It got a few tidbits here and there. As for all the swapping stuff, I'd ask over on the old gen side, they'd probably know.

More then likely it's overcharged. If they're low on refrigerent, the compressor typically just runs all the time. I'd tell the dealer it's not normal, and that they need to fix it. If they won't, tell them, they'll be getting the bill when you take it to another shop. May also be worth complaining to SOA about the dealer and your problems.

I wouldn't really worry about it. It'd probably be a good idea to check pressures, but if everything's good, I wouldn't worry.

Are you sure you are not hearing a click? When my starter solenoid contacts were giving me issues, I thought I didn't hear a click at first, but there was one. Open your window and listen carefully. If you hear a click, more then likely it's the solenoid contacts.

yeah, you're probably one of the few/only ones I know of. I understand your reasons for wanting to do it, but it is a safety device that really should be there. What if someone else drives your car? I think the thrust bearing issue really isn't too big an issue. Oil does still remain in there. I hosed out the ej22t engine I am rebuilding with water and degreaser. This was with the heads off and oil pan off. When I split the block, there was still oil around the bearings. So for that short period of time at start up, I don't think it's a big deal. If you want to use your starter without pressing the clutch, you should tie a toggle/push button switch in parallel to the clutch start switch. That way, under normal circumstances, and when other people drive your car, everything works as supposed to. Yet when an "emergency" occurs or when you want to, you can start the car without depressing the clutch.

yes, on the pass side of the engine bell housing http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2486.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2487.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2488.JPG

Most people typically rip out the air suspension and put regular struts & springs. If it comes to needing to replace the suspension, I'd highly recommend that route, compared to repairing the air suspension. $1000 is a little on the light side for the air suspension in my opinion. I'd say you could probably replace the air suspension with springs & struts for 500 or so for parts. There are other subaru model springs that will work, so you can usually find used stuff for cheap that will work. Clutch....I guess it's your standard job...about 4-5 hours or so. So probably around 400-500 bucks. to have a shop do it. Just a guess.

Does the link work? You need to RIGHT CLICK AND SAVE AS the pdf document. Do NOT try and open it from the web.

Take off one of the plastic end caps of the timing belt cover and check the timing belt to see if it's still tight. Only other thing I can think of is the wiring from the cam sensor is bad. However that typically doesn't go bad instantaneously

Check out my site http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/subaru.html Go to notes & tips, engine related. It tells how to pull the codes via check connectors.

The red fluid is more then likely automatic trans fluid. It's probably not leaking out of the front diff....or it shouldn't. The front diff should have differential fluid which is typically brownish. I would check the front diff level and atf fluid. Either way, it should be ok in driving it to the mechanic.

Ditch the crappy manuals and d/l the factory one from me. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ It's for the 92, however most of the stuff is the same.

may want to also try http://forums.nasioc.com/forums

Sorry, no I don't know what the 98's final drive ratio is.

4.111 is the final drive ratio.