Legacy777

Just want to thank CCR (Emily) for the great job, and for helping me out and putting up with my questions I may have time this weekend to start the assembly...we'll see. Here's pics of the heads http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/09/default.htm Various teardown pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

This is for a 92, but the diagram should give you some ideas. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ Please do NOT try and open the pdf, right click and save as. BTW, what symptoms are you having with the AC?

I'd question those weights. The new legacy is made out of a lot of lightweight materials. I'm pretty sure it's lighter then the WRX, and I can't see there being a huge difference in weight between the RS & WRX. Check out www.legacygt.com for specific info on the new legacy.

The main thing is with the stock turbo....anything much above 14 psi, and you're completely out of the compressor's efficiency range, and you're not really getting much more flow, just creating a bunch of hot air. If you want more boost, you need a bigger turbo.

The AC system is different. There was the calsonic & zexal ac systems. Then I think in 92 or 93, they went to r134a. If you can provide the year and the system, I should be able to help.

Intake manifold: Depends on the heads. You'd need to match the intake to the heads. Exhaust system: Depends on whether the heads you use have dual exhaust ports or single exhaust ports. The rest of the exhaust should fit, but may require some tweaking to get it to fit. Most of the older parts from pre 2002 are "fairly" compatible. There's some intricacies in parts, but a fair amount of stuff is swappable.

I think 14

Yeah, changing the thermostat won't affect when the fans kick on. They kick on when the ECU sees 200 deg F coolant.

Hmmm......not sure what to say about that....

It's probably low on refrigerent. I'd just convert it. Replace the receiver/dryer, flush the system, put pag oil in, and charge the system with 134a to 3/4 of the R12 capacity. I've got a thread detailing my conversion process if you search.

What does the noise sound like? Is it a whiring sound? Does it change with speed?

I don't think it came with one from the factory, however the dealer could have isntalled one, or a previous owner.

You can reuse the head bolts. I've talked with CCR and reputable subaru mechanics, and they don't replace the bolts. My only question is should the torquing sequence be the same as the FSM states, or something different.

Does the rattle change with vehicle speed, engine rpm, or bumps?

Are the black or green diagnostic connectors connected? If they are, disconnect them.

Yeah, check tire pressures, also, you may want to change trans fluid. Lastly, put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder and see if the binding goes away. If it doesn't, then it's most likely the duty c solenoid, and will need to be replaced.

15.9 gal

I wouldn't worry about it. Not all manufacturers are going to mount the plastic trim so it's completely centered. Is the outer wheel itself going up and down when you turn it? If so, by how much?

You're probably experiencing torque bind. There is a fuse holder in the engine compartment on the passenger side near the strut tower. Put a spare fuse in there, and then drive the car. See if the problem goes away. If it does, I'd suggest changing/flushing the transmission fluid as a start. That may help some, it may not. Also, some have added LSD additive to the ATF fluid. If putting the fuse in doesn't help, the duty c solenoid could be stuck open, or there could be other problems. Regarding the height control. Here are instructions to diagnosis it. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AirSuspension_diag1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AirSuspension_diag2.jpg The blinking height light is more then likely a separate issue.

Does it have a "manual" button? I don't recall how to pull the TCU codes on a an auto that doesn't have the manual button, but if you do have a manual button, you can try the instructions on my site. Go to notes & tips, trans related.

I don't have the impreza info unfortunately.....however I'm sure someone on nasioc could help ya.

Convert the suspension to standard struts & springs. Cheapest way to go is find a similar wagon in the junkyard, take the entire spring/strut/top mounts, and replace the struts with new ones. I'd recommend KYB GR2's, which can be had from www.tirerack.com Also, depending on the condition, you may need to replace the top mounts. I would think you could get all four complete strut setups for 40-50 bucks New struts will run you about 350-400, and new top mounts 30-45 a piece.

I can't think of anything particularly tricky.

Yeah mean the coil pack on top of the engine? It's straight forward. Unplug the connector, and spark plugs, loosen the bolts holding it to the intake manifold, and replace.

Do you have an illuminated CEL all the time, or did you just check the codes, and find those. If you don't have a steady CEL, reset the ECU, pull fuse 14 for 30 min. Drive the car around, then recheck the codes with the black connectors. IAC valve http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2470.JPG Crank sensor (thing with the wire going to it) http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt/DCP_2703.JPG