Legacy777

Not sure exactly what you're asking. Are you looking to get a 3 month warranty? Also, I'm going to move this to the appropriate forum.

Sure, the marks will line back up after the belt has made one complete revolution of the entire cam/crank gear/pulley train. As to how many rotations did the crank or cam make.....don't have a clue.

Man.....you guys are freaking beating a dead horse, then kicking it, and then shooting it. The bottom line to the question asked is.....you really don't need to be concerned with TDC when doing the timing belt. Just rotate the engine until the crank & cam marks are aligned, take the belt off, put the new one on, and be done with it.

Pretty much all the components between the turbo & non-turbo models are compatible. The turbo models did typically get some better goodies though. Not sure about overseas models, but in the states the turbo models got different gearing, better brakes, beefier transmission, etc. I'm sure LSD's are around from the legacy, but you can use an impreza one as well, just need to match final drive ratios. The legacy actually is a pretty decent rally car as is. Do the things needed to make the car safe and suspension/brakes....and you should be pretty good to go.

If it's the compressor clutch, I was not successful in removing it. I'd just keep using it until it dies....

This is the same as the "Hold" button on the first gen legacies.

We're venturing down the road of semantics........

It shouldn't, the main thing I can see happening if left for a long time is inconsistent wear or premature surface wear on the cam.

The haynes book is stupid. There's absolutely no reason to do that. Just align the timing marks that are on the pullies to the marks that are on the cam covers. Make note of the mark that's on the crankshaft gear. The mark is on the front of one of the teeth that is read by the crank sensor. It's not the arrow on the front of the gear.

You really need to flush the system thoroughly. I had a compressor knocking, replaced it. It worked fine for a while, but did eventually die. I recently yanked the condensor out, and there were small metal flakes at the bottom outlet. I'd really recommend pulling all the components out and flushing them thorughly. They make a flush, however brake cleaner will work just as well.

If it is that box, I do have one. I yanked it when I did my 5spd conversion. You can have it for the cost of shipping. Here's a pic of the box, and some factory scans which might help in diagnosing the problem http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap/electrical.html#shiftlock

1500 rpm is normal for cold idle. You're car is fine.

If the timing belt is relatively new...it should like fairly new. It should be semi-clear as to whether or not it's been changed recently. Also, here's factory scans of the timing belt change procedure for the legacy. Should be similar. Also, make sure you torque the main front crank pulley to 110-120 ft-lbs. All the manuals, including the factory one have the wrong torque listed. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt4.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt5.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt6.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt7.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/Timing_belt8.jpg

I'd ask over on nasioc....someone's bound to know....

Hey Michael, Honestly, this is a pretty easy job. All that needs to be done is to remove the valve cover, take off the rocker assembly, pull out the old lifter, bleed the new lifter, put the rocker assembly back on and put the valve cover back on. It'll be easier on reassembly if they turn the engine by hand so that the lifters aren't resting on any cam lobes. Personally....I can't see this being any more then 2 hours worth of labor for one side....and that's being very generous for someone that has no clue to what they're doing. I think a good subie mechanic should be able to do the one side in an hour or so. There's some pictures of the heads & rocker assemblies here http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/14/default.htm

Subaru is weird....they will have a different part # for an item that is almost exactly the same except for one small thing. It could be a small little clip or something that's different, but it'll get a different part #. What i'd recommend is putting those part #'s in an online subaru dealer's database and see if anything's been superceded. www.subaruparts.com is a good one to use. Other then that, I'd go out to a subaru dealer and see if you can find any physical differences. If not, it's probably just numbering thing......

First thing I always suggest when troubleshooting ECU codes is to clear the codes, drive the car around, and see what codes come back. Typically if you get more then one code, it's possible the other codes could be caused by a "hiccup" from the real problem. As for your problem, I'd suspect the coolant temp sensor, even though there's no code stored for it. They will sometimes not throw any code, and may even test ok, despite being the problem.

You don't need to replace them. I contacted a dealer in the Seattle area I trust, and they NEVER replace the head bolts. I also contacted Emily at CCR regarding the head bolts, and she said I don't need replace the bolts either. That was good enough for me. So I reused them.

More then likely the coolant temp sensor is bad. It's almost a tell-tale sign that the CTS is bad when the car runs bad when cold but ok when warmed up, or vice-versa.

Fix the pulley, and check the key way on the crankshaft to make sure it's not damaged. That bolt needs to be torqued to 110-120 ft-lbs As for your check engine light . Check the engine codes. Instructions can be found on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Any idea when the last time the transmission fluid was changed? I'd start with that. Maybe something got gummed up in the valve body.

Have taken a multi-meter to see if there is power at the wiring connector? I'd do that first, and see if you have power.

It sounds similar to the cobb filter for the RS's. It's basically an enclosed cone paper gauze/oil filter. They're not bad. I'm not sure if the ganzflow is foam & oil, or paper & oil.

You need PAG 100 oil. I believe the total system oil amount is like 5.8 oz or something like that. I can check, I've got a book at home. Dumping out the old oil, measuring it, and putting the same amount back in is fine too. You should replace the receiver drier as well since the system is open. Just curious, why are you replacing the compressor? Did it die?

http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2486.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2487.JPG http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2488.JPG