Legacy777

Do you know what car it's out of? What model/year is your car? Is it auto or manual? They should be very similar, except maybe final drive ratio.

You'll need about a quart per diff. Specific amounts is in the owner's manual. You'll need about 5-6 qts of ATF fluid. The total capacity is around 8, but you never get all of it out when you just drain it. Brake bleeding procedure is the same. Right Front Left Rear Left Front Right Rear

Yeah the 93 should be a direct drop in.

The turbo and non-turbo air cleaner boxes are the same.

This info is incorrect. Check out NASIOC's news & rumors forum. The minivan is meant for japanese markets only.

The simple answer is you probably won't find anything. If you do, it's going to be crazy expensive. You can try modifying a kit for an impreza or later model legacy....

Probably not, I wanted the updated design put in the turbo legacy tranny I had rebuilt, but it wasn't possible. The 03 WRX may be different, but I can't say for sure.

Do they have a main headquarters/office in Poland? If so, try calling/emailing them. They may know more then the dealer. If they don't, I'm not sure what to tell ya.

Give Jamie a call at www.subarugenuineparts.com She should be able to help.

Are you talking about an alignment or to have them check the power steering? A 4 wheel alignment can range from $50-$100. As for checking the power steering...really don't know...depends on how many hours they spend, and if they find anything.

It's probably two different things, but you should have it checked out.

You may want to try contacting subaru of Poland directly.

I went to 92 engine management for a different reason. I had swapped in 92 fuel injectors. They were different then the 90-91 models. Since I swapped in the injectors, the car seemed a little sluggish and my mileage was crap. I attributed it to the differences in EM programming and the different injectors. I ran on my AT ECU for a while before I got my 92 ECU, and it worked fine. As I said, the ECU is outfitted to be able to run in either AT or MT mode as long as the identifier pin and other associated wiring is corrected.

If you're continuing to get the code, and have replaced the sensor. The problem more then likely is either in the wiring or that the cat is truly not working as well as it's supposed to. You don't want to clean it with solvents. They make cleaners you can buy and dump in your tank that's supposed to help, but I don't know how well they'll work. If you can find seafoam, give that a shot www.seafoamsales.com

Good deal. I'd also suggest resetting the ECU. That was allow the ECU to start off from a "fresh" point in case the MAF had been giving bad signals to the ECU.

Steve, I don't think there's much difference between those models. I'm not sure how many forester owners there are on here, but in terms of the newer generation cars. They are definitely more civilized and what not. If you don't get any further replies, you may want to check out the forester forum on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums I think edmonds may have a forester specific forum too.

Here are the scans I was talking about. This describes the AT http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg MT http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWDMT_description.jpg Center diff http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff3.jpg

I don't know if KYB makes specific forester applications. If they do, I'd recommend them. If not, I know people have taken WRX or STi struts and springs andd used them on their forester.

The engine management goes with the particular sensors that were used. If the AT sensors & ECU were retained, that's fine. Everything will work fine. If they mixed and matched sensors with ECU's, then that's not good. There is a MT/AT identifier pin on the ECU. That will tell the ECU what transmission it has, and will adjust things accordingly. Read my swap write-up. I go into detail the modifications that need to be done to get the wiring correct. www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

The AWD systems on the auto and manual trans are completely different. The automatic uses clutch plates, and a hydraulic solenoid which actuates the plates like a typicaly automatic transmission. The manual uses a viscous coupling attached to the center differential. There are inner and outer plates in the coupling along with a silicone type material that becomes more viscous as the plate "shear" it. I've got technical scans, but one of the drives on my server is crapping out. So once I take care of it tonight, I can post those scans. The rear housing is different on the FWD 5spds, however you really don't see many of the rear housings and transfer sections of the AWD trans floating around. I would just try and find a complete AWD 5spd.

Yeah the rear end must come out, and pretty sure you're going to have to remove the rear crossmember as well. I don't think there's enough room to snake the gas tank out with it in.

Have you read my write-up? www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap All of the 90-94 legacy tranny's will work. Your 94 4EAT has a 3.90 final drive ratio. The 91-94 turbo legacies were the only ones with that final drive ratio. So unless you get one of those transmissions, you will need to swap the rear diff too. Dual range transmissions were not available on the 90-94 legacies. Your best bet is to find a donor car, that way you have everything, and don't have to piece-meal the parts needed.

It can....but it sometimes won't. Mine didn't throw a CEL until it was REALLY bad.

It sounds like the system wasn't probably bled of all the air. Is your model normally aspirated or turbo'd? The normally aspirated radiators have a bleed screw on your driver's side of the radiator to allow air to escape. I would start there.

As I've found out with my recent compression test on my n/a ej22. The actual final values may be off from what they're supposed to be due to gauge inaccuracy. However cylinder pressure variance is important. When you did the compression test, was the engine warmed up all the way, injector connectors pulled off, and throttle plate open all the way?