Legacy777

Your tranny is probably going south. I've heard of others loosing just one gear/reverse. Eventually the problems will spread. Your probablem is more then likely in the valve body. You could try having it flushed....maybe something got lodged in there.

Probably wouldn't start because the engine is super flooded. As for the lights on the dash....I don't really see how that's related. I'd try the battery disconnect first.

Before anyone says anything will swap with anything.....what year/model engine do you have, and what are you looking to swap. Whether the engine is n/a or turbo brings in complexities, as well as what phase it is, exhaust port (single or dual port), intake manifold fitment, etc.

Are you just looking for pictures, or actual engineering drawings?

might help to specify what type of car/model/year

You may want to check on www.bbs.legacycentral.org I think someone was asking for a transmission decoder from that number.....and I don't recall it was answered or not.

Basically it controls the amount of lockup on the rear clutch plates....so essentually controlling AWD. Check out these scans, they may explain it better. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWD_transfer_system3.jpg

Mis match tires can cause torque bind due to wheel speed differences. Torque bind when left alone I think is more likely to cause issues to the clutch plates, rather then the duty c solenoid, but I can't say for sure that the duty c solenoid wouldn't be affected by driving extended periods with mismatched tires.

That is NOT TRUE!! The rear rotors are most definitely slip on like the front. All the newer subarus are like this. That large nut holds the axle to the hub. You do NOT need to remove that to replace the rotor. Make sure you have removed the caliper & caliper bracket. There are two bolt holes on the rotor that you can screw a bolt in to help free it from the hub. I don't recall the thread pitch/size. If you don't plan to keep the rotors, bang on the front with a hammer to help loosen the rust.

It's very possible the front and rear diff ratios are different. If you continue to drive it, you're going to kill the transmission again. You should be able to put a fuse in the FWD fuse holder next to the passenger side strut tower (on a left hand drive car). This will temporarily disable the AWD. Do you know what year car the new transmission came out of?

The chances of you finding anything is going to be pretty slim. Typically engineering drawings like that are proprietary, and not floating around the general public.

It's possible something was restricting oil passages, or that subaru might be disassembling it to verify there's not a problem with manufacturing. I'd say, just be happy you got a new engine

You can buy a reman'd cv axle for around 55-60 bucks at autozone. They have a lifetime warranty. Labor, should run you about an hour or so... Wheel bearing....I've heard around 200-250.

Yeah I'd say they're pretty reliable. You're going to find a lot more sti owners on http://forums.nasioc.com/forums I'd suggest asking over there as well.

Does the car sputter at all, or does it just instantly die? It might be the coolant temp sensor. Have you done any other troubleshooting/diagnostic to make sure you have fuel, spark, etc?

The fan kicking in shouldn't cause that, however the AC compressor kicking in could.Other then that, not sure I can be of much help without knowing more. I'm assuming you've checked your coolant level in the radiator right?

may find something on www.endwrench.com

If you hear something moving when you push the buttons, it's possible the linkage is disconnected. Stick your head under the dash on the driver's side and have someone push the buttons on the hvac unit, and see if you see any levers move on the air box behind the stereo.

On the older models the fuse holder is next to the passenger strut tower in the engine bay. On the newer models I believe it's in the fuse box in the engine bay.

Does the engine run, or is it just that you're getting CEL's for misfires.

Should be able to find the info you need in one of these scans http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/2002_WRX_FSM/

It's supposed to lock. Have you tried turning the wheel all the way from left to right with the key out?

Is your defrost or AC on? If so, the fans will be on.

it's a new gen vehicle....so we can talk about it right here.

It doesn't sound like anything is really wrong. Some of the control logic in the newer automatics is a little weird, and that may be what you're experiencing.