Legacy777

Yeah the JECS MAF was what I have too.....I haven't heard of too many of the Hitachi ones failing.

The head gasket can be changed with the engine in the car. Space will probably be a little snug, but yes it can be done. Are you aware there is a bleed screw on the passenger side of the radiator? Open that, refill the coolant and see where you temps are. I'm not saying your head gasket is ok, but it sounds like you have an air pocket in there.

yup, check the fuse

Do you have the Hitachi (silver) or JECS (black) MAF sensor?

The big pipe under the intake manifold is the coolant cross pipe. There is a pipe that comes up from the water pump. There is small line that comes off of that. It goes to the throttle body, then from the throttle body to the IAC valve, and then back into the cross pipe. Your leak is somewhere in that piping. Check all the smaller piping/rubber lines.

If you have a spare MAF sensor, try swapping it out. I had a similar issue that turned out to be the MAF sensor. Have you checked the ECU codes?

You still must have some form of heat exchanger. You can not inject CO2 directly into your intake. The kit by DEI offers two main places for cooling, the intake and fuel. Take a look at this link: http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sc&cid=1 Specifically the intake http://www.designengineering.com/products.asp?m=sp&pid=4

Is the kit injecting CO2 directly into the intake manifold? If so, I see no way that can be beneficial.... So the cam belt is off about 4 teeth from what it's supposed to be? Any header that fits the 2.5 liter will work on your 2.2 liter. Borla makes a header, and there's a few others. It will require some custom piping at the outlet of the header since that changed between the older 2.2's and the newer 2.5's

To remove the plastic trim, there's two screws behind the cup holder, two screws that face upwards (you need to take out the ashtray to get at them). Once those are out, you can remove the plastic trim. The screw in the back of the ashtray. Loosen it slighty, don't unscrew it all the way. Then you can remove the ashtray mount section. The metal cage around the radio has 6 screws. The radio antenna disconnects further down the antenna lead, rather then at the back of the radio.

How badly is it rubbing. When you spin the wheel by hand, does it keep the wheel from moving. What do you mean you've adjusted the brake shoes to the maximum?

They do pretty well. Get some decent snow tires and you'll have an extremely capable winter car.

I pull the hose off the pcv valve and lower vent line. I put the hose back on the pcv valve but upside down. Pour a little bit of seafoam in the hose, then put my finger over the end of it so the pcv valve opens and sucks in the seafoam.

The knock sensor is not behind the power steering pump or alternator.... See the round black thing with the bolt through it. That's the knock sensor http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2481.JPG

Mike, You posted this question multiple times in multiple forums, please bring back the orignal thread if you wish to continue conversation about it, or did not feel that you got your questions answered. Thanks

Yeah, they're pretty easy to replace. If you look straight down just to the right of the throttle body (looking from in front of the engine), it'll be down there.

The EJ22 speed sensor sends a 0 or 5V to the ECU. So depending on what the older ones were like, you may be able to use it. If you check the ECU codes, it should throw a VSS code if it's not getting the signal. So that would be a way to confirm that may be the issue.

Can you provide a little more information about the problem. When did it start happening, did you change anything...any other info? Does the engine stall? I'm not sure how speed is related to the problem unless that's when your rpms go above that point, but I would assume they're going to be above that point when you accelerate anyway.

Take it off. If the bolts are still intact. Just take the shield off. If not, take a cut off wheel or torch and cut the heat shield off.

Yeah, they're a little flat looking.

How does the car run? If it runs good when cold and when warm, it's probably not the coolant temp sensor. Does your throttle body have a screw like this on it? http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tb/ If so, see if it's screwed in all the way....if so unscrew it a little. You can pull the battery for 30 min or so to clear the ECU. It's possible running it without the airbox caused issues, but I doubt it. Wait.....did you use all the sensors/ECU and such for the EJ22??

Insert a fuse in the FWD fuse holder. If the rumbling goes away, you have torque bind. You can search for more info on it. But check to make sure you have all four of the same tires, also check tire pressure, and change the transmission fluid. BTW, your automatic doesn't have a transfer case. The AWD is handled in the rear extension housing. The clutch packs can wear out, and need to be replaced.....I would assume that's what your mech. was talking about.

Yeah....it the visors had a real stupid design. Let's make the wear piece out of plastic so it rounds off after time and the visors don't stay up......

I'd also recommend keeping the car. There are some small incidental stuff that you will need. You can keep your ECU, there are some other issues. Check out my AWD & 5MT swap write up. A lot of the issues can be found on there www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

I've done two crank seals by putting them on the oil pump first and then installing the oil pump. They've been fine. I agree that if you aren't careful you might screw it up, but the ones I did are fine.

In your geographic area....I'd offer 3500-4000 if in excellent shape. No more. How many miles are on it? They are good cars, but they are not that rare. Subaru has some stupid ridiculous numbers for these cars. They're total hogwash. Check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org There's more cars on that board then what Subaru said was made.