Legacy777

The 90-91 AT & MT legacies had different sensors. The ignitor, coil pack, injectors, IAC valve, MAF sensor, and ECU are different. The ignitor & coil pack won't really matter. The injectors are timed slightly different, so your mixture will not be right on. I'd suggest swapping the AT injectors in. Also, the IAC valve on the AT's is a rotary type valve, compared to the MT's recipricating valve. The MAF sensor is also different. Swap the IAC valve & injectors from the AT car. Also, sounds like your coolant temp sensor is bad. Did you check the codes? Do that before you do anything else. The computer is telling you what it doesn't like....

When the shutter happens, what happens if you move the gear selector from Drive to Neutral? Does the shutter go away, or continue?

Nice tip! Welcome to the forum.

Sounds like the shift lock system is messing up. It could be the controller, it might be one of the sensors too.

Is it a grinding sound or just a vibration? I would say any sort of grinding is not good....

Please only post one thread. I'm going to close this one and link to your other thread in the marketplace. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=44749

Jamie, What's the oil pump seal? Is that the packing around the oil pump? Or do they now have a seal to replace using silicone/threebond?

You may want to also try asking your question over on www.legacygt.com/forums

They have to take the timing belt off to get at these things. I'd say, add a 1/2 hour of labor to replace the water pump, and a 1/2 hr to 1 hr to pull the oil pump, clean it, and reseal it with rtv silicone. Those times would be added onto the normal timing belt job. You might as well replace the belt while you're in there and have it off. Timing belt job can range from 200-400. I think if you were to have all that work done at the dealer, I would say somewhere in the 400-550 range. Give or take.

You could get a custom exhaust done, and yeah you could probably get SS. There may be some bolt on stuff too that's out there. These guys are a good subie shop. Not sure how close they are to you though. http://www.rallispec.com/

mmm cookie

When the outback was first introduced I don't think there was much difference between the legacy. As time has gone on there may be more different, but I still can't see it being too much different.

Is the TPS a 4-wire TPS or 3-wire? If it's a 4-wire TPS, it needs to be adjusted using the following procedure http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/TPS_testing3.jpg If it's a 3-wire TPS, it'll probably be similar or the same as this http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/2002_WRX_FSM/scans/2002_WRX_TPS_testing.zip

There's no aftermarket headlights that will improve lighting. You can replace an old headlight with a new assembly, but that's about it unless you want to custom make something.

You may want to try nasioc, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums there may be more people that live in your area on that board.

You should probably be good. Just make sure your brake lines and stuff are ok with the suspension at full droop.

What car/engine/year is this for? If you removed the electromagnet top, and put it back exactly where it was taken off from, you should be fine.

Just to clarify....there's no seal and o-ring. The o-ring is the seal. There are seals on the front however, only an o-ring on the rear.....and yeah it's a pretty simple task to replace the o-ring.

Take some compressed air and blow all the electrical sensor connectors out, and put di-electric grease on them. You can also do this for the spark plug wires too.

More then likely the utek is causing the problems. You need to figure out what the codes are. I'd probably go back to whoever tuned the utek, unless you did it yourself.

Yeah, check to make sure everything is working right with the clutch. There are two clips that hold the clutch fork onto the throw out bearing. It's possible something might be wrong with that. If everything is good, it's probably the synchros....in which case, you'd have to tear into the trans to replace them.

There is a fuse holder next to the passenger side strut tower. Put a fuse in there, and see if the noise goes away. Can you tell if the noise is coming from the transmission or some place else? So the noise is engine rpm dependent and not speed dependent?

That's weird they actually recommend the 5, because all the ones over here that I know of use the 6 range.

I'd probably agree to get the manual trans. I think that price is a little high for the mileage. But that's just me. Have you checked online for what the car is worth?

Subaru makes the best manual. I've got a semi-complete one on my server http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/2000%2B_Legacy_FSM/ You can also d/l it from subaru http://techinfo.subaru.com