Legacy777

Yeah I'd say that's probably the dropping resistor for the auto trans. Only other thing I can think of is a DRL resistor.... You can always disconnect it. If you get the power light or AT light to blink, then you know it's the dropping resistor.

check out www.bbs.legacycentral.org Matt Monson should be able to answer your question. I believe the ej18 heads will increase your compression ratio, by how much I don't know. Another thing to note is the EJ18 has slightly smaller valves too. I don't recall if it was just the intake or exhaust, or both.

I should be able to look up those numbers in my parts book this evening and tell ya if the tranny came out of a 1st gen legacy or not.

What you're describing is normal. If you want to test the valve, remove it, and try and blow through the valve. You shouldn't be able to. If you use a hand held vacuum pump, you should be able to open the valve and will be able to blow through it.

blackbart is correct regarding the final drive ratio. So if it's not 3.90, then it's gotta be a 90-91 AT tranny.

have you done normal checks? plugs, wires, etc?

you may want to check out the http://legacygt.com/forums

Yeah there is a coolant plug. You can see the plugs in this pic. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/02/DCP_4290.JPG I may have a spare plug, because I installed an oil cooler on my engine. If I do, you can have it.

You should try and find the black diagnostic connectors. They are the connectors you need to connect to try and pull the codes. There's info on pulling the codes on my site. That is very weird the light is not coming on when you disconnect sensors. I wonder if the wiring is messed up, or if the ECU has an issue.

Not really sure. I swapped out my AT before I had a chance to try the stuff.

The WRX clutch will not work. A later model impreza rs clutch should work. I'd recommend checking out www.bbs.legacycentral.org A lot of info on the first gen legacies.

It shouldn't stay on all the time. It will turn on under hard acceleration, and should turn back off when ease off.

Thanks for the comments on my site. About the turbo.....it's already done http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/

The hill holder you're talking about is something different, and should be an entirely mechanical system. I don't think the leveling suspension and hill holder are going to be tied together, but subaru has done crazier stuff.

The 90-91's were 4.111. I'm not sure about the 95+, but I would assume they're also 4.111. There are two different codes on the transmission. That TY..... number, and a six digit numerical number. They should be on the driver's side, where the starter bolts in. I believe the TY number is on a white label. You can see the top of the white label in one of those pics.

TCU - Transmission Control Unit. It's the computer brain for the automatic transmission. But you have a manual trans, so you won't have one.

You'll be fine. The only issue is that the trannies/syncros can be tempermental depending on the oil you use. This just doesn't go for WRX's. My turbo legacy tranny is big time picky. It hated the valvoline stuff. I ran some neo synthetic in it, and currently have some stuff that a lot of porsche guys use. It's better, but there's still a grind from 1st to 2nd once things warms up. I'm probably going to add a little bit of penzoil syncromesh to it, and make it a cocktail. One of the guys on NASIOC has a few posts about a tranny cocktail of different fluids that seem to work really well. I believe his board name is uncle scotty.

The main differences that make the turbo legacy 4eat better is that is has one more clutch plate on the forward & high clutch assembly. Is it really worth the money, and or hassle to try and find a turbo legacy 4EAT? I don't know...probably not, unless you're making gobs of power, even then, the stock turbo leg tranny wouldn't hold up too long. Only big catch as mentioned is the different drive ratios. However the 92-94 normally aspirated 4EAT's had a 3.90 final drive ratio, so if you found one of those, it'd be a direct swap. Here's a post from Larry Witherspoon from the yahoo bc-bf legacyworks group about the tranny differences >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Sent this to a "generic" Subaru forum last nite as an addendum to an auto trans discussion For Turbo Legacy and SVX owners...ESPECIALLY Turbo Legacy Auto Trans Part Number TZ102ZJ2AA SVX Auto Trans Part Number TZ102ZM1AA The MY 91 - 94 Turbo Legacy auto trans is unlike most other Sube auto trannys but is also found in the MY 92 - 97 SVX Some would look to a WRX for a replacement trans and that's fine, but if you can find one in good shape from a Turbo Legacy or SVX you will have the added advantage of a trans built for a heavier car Be careful trying to use an SVX trans in a turbo Legacy. The SVX had two different gear ratios...3.9 and 3.545. The torque converter for the 3.545 won’t fit the Legacy Turbo 3.90 flexplate. As far as the torque converter differences, my info has it that the SVX and Turbo Legacy converters are not interchangeable. They have different overall diameters and different mounting bolt circles. The Subaru Factory '91 Model Year Update Course gives the following tranny info comparing the Legacy Turbo auto tranny to the auto trans for it's normally aspirated sister; Of great importance in my opinion is the last sentence, which provides information about a condition I believe unique to the Turbo Legacy, and why it is so important to try and stay with a Turbo Legacy trans and electronic control units if you have one of these rare cars; "The TCU and ECU do NOT interface on the Turbo Legacy" (unlike all other Subarus) ===================================== In order to handle the increased torque produced by the turbocharged engine, the 4EAT Transmission uses a larger Torque Converter. For additional strength, the input shaft has also been shotpeened. In both the Forward Clutch assembly and the High Clutch assembly, the number of drive and driven plates has been increased by one (1), while the retaining plate thickness has been reduced. The Low/Reverse Brake assembly has increased the number of plates by two (2), but the thickness has been reduced. The outer diameter of the Servo piston (band application) assembly has been increased in order to provide more band clamping force. Of course, the servo piston seals have also been enlarged to match the servo piston diameter. Due to the new piston shape the number of "O" ring seals has been reduced by one (1) Lubrication passages have been added to the Planetary Carrier assembly for increased gear durability. Finally the logic in the Transmission Control Unit (TCU) has been changed to match the mechanical changes to the 4EAT. And a new Select Monitor Cartridge (P/N 498348400) has been introduced which supersedes P/N 498347500 and P/N 498347501. This cartridge will also operate on the 90MY Legacy. The TCU and ECU do NOT interface on the Turbo Legacy ====================================== For rebuilt Sube transes my first choice for a stock rebuild would be Colorado Component Rebuilders http://www.ccrengines.com/ though I have found local auto trans specialty shops that could do the job. You just have to ask questions you already know the answers to so that you weed out the wannabees. I now have a "bulletproof" trans from Level 10 Performance Transmissions http://www.levelten.com/ which I went to because the SVX forums speak well of them, and since the SVX only came with an auto trans, those guys know where to go JMO of America http://www.jmousa.com/ did my torque converter, and are one of the few torque converter performance specialty shops around. An insight to their torque converter performance upgrade can be seen here http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0211ht_converter The downside to the extra performance and durability in my case is an uncomfortably hard upshift at low speeds from first to second and second to third...I hear the tires chirp on dry pavement all the time A place called TransGo http://www.txchange.com/transgo.htm has a kit for the Legacy 4EAT auto trans which is less expensive than the Level 10 reworked valve body, but I understand there's machining to be done on the valve body plus the replacement parts so once you locate a good tranny man maybe it would be a wash as to which is less expensive. However a still less expensive alternative is their "Shift Improver" kit (part # SKRE4R01A). This $50 kit has 4 plastic rings for the transmission that are designed to handle greater temperatures than stock Subaru parts ABSITIVELY POSOLUTELY install an external cooler, it's so important for increased longevity the JMO torque converter upgrade includes one in the price! Now if I can just get my engine done maybe I'll be able to enjoy all the money dropped into the trans! Larry autotransking Witherspoon

Your coolant temp sensor is probably bad. They're like 20 bucks from www.subarugenuineparts.com I'm assuming you have an automatic trans. The black connectors can hide behind the TCU. If you remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the TCU in, you can usually move it out of the way enough to find them. Also, some of the later years had the connectors on the right side of the steering column. This pic may help some. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg

Is it too high or too low? I'm not sure we got the self leveling feature in the states, so I'm not sure if anyone will be able to help. I would suspect you probably can't adjust it manually though.

what year & model is it for? I'd try a junkyard and see if they have what you want.

you don't need to disable the AWD, that's counter productive for putting chains on....

I don't recall exactly what the rules are, but I think there's a loop hole where AWD vehicles with snow tires or "good" all seasons are exempt from chaining up. However it's been several years since I've lived in Wa, so things may have changed. If you do have to chain up, I'd go with what's in the manual.

I don't know if the wiring is in place, but if you want to go the aftermarket fog light route, they usually come with all the wiring. The vanity mirror, if they offered one, you can check out www.subarugenuineparts.com as they'll probably have it for the least amount of money.

You need to use dextron III not mercon III. If the ATF fulfills both specs, that's fine, but it needs to be dextron III. In addition to the previous comments, you need to have the engine running and slowly cycle through the gears and back to park before checking the atf level.