Legacy777

What screw did you adjust? Typically those type of things/screws should not be adjusted as they are set from the factory. I'd suspect the idle air control valve.

it should be just to the left of your throttle body. It may be slightly different then your car, but you can see the pcv valve on my manifold http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2468.JPG

yeah....server is back up.....minus one processor.

There is AC specific stuff you can buy. It's made by Interdynamics. It's called Auto Air Conditioner Cleaner & deoderizer. Works much better then lysol.

Don't know the model it came from, but it's a 5spd AWD tranny.

It's Legacy777.....not legend My server's motherboard took a dump, and won't have it back up probably until next week. If you can wait that long, I can have things back up.

Shoot me an email, I'll email you the scans.

Unplug the maf, remove it, and start the car. It'll probably not run real well, but it should run.

Yeah check the filter box area. The engine will make a certain hum sound through the intake.....but I don't know if I would describe it as a trumpet.

Not really......The liquid filled (round) mounts will probably provide more isolation/noise damping. The regular square ones are really pretty soft. The sti mounts use the same mold as the square ones, however the rubber is a much much harder rubber.

As long as you're using a WRX ECU, you should be golden. You just need to figure out which wires are which, and wire up the WRX TPS connector.

Yes the mounts are interchangable. Make sure you get the rubber mount & the mounting bracket. Depending on the type of mount liquid filled (round) or rubber (square) the bracket will be slightly different.

Yeah my server is down with a bad motherboard. It may be next week until I can get it back up. The main difference between a 4-wire & a 3-wire is that the 4-wire has an idle switch. The 3-wire calculates this idle start point based on the reading it takes when the car is started up. There is a guy on the legacycentral bbs that has tried to work around this, and I don't know if he was successful or not. There's really no way to just do plain wiring and get the ECU meant for the 4-wire to not have issues with the 3-wire. There needs to be some electronics involved. You may want to search the bbs.

Yes, there is a rollover valve, but that's it.

Yeah, I'd try a different set of axles. The smaller diameter axles are AWD axles, however they should be fine to use on the FWD vehicles.

Have you or your mechanic tried to check and see if any codes are stored in the ECU? Instructions are on my site. I would start there.

The instructions on my site are for all 90-94 legacies. Both the green & black diagnostic connectors need to be disconnected normally!

It's just to the left of the steering column, under the dash. Disregard the labels. It is the TCU, not ECU. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/images/ECU_connectors_2.jpg

I believe others have tried to patch it, but it doesn't work. Just get another radiator.

Read my post above! Rent or buy a pressure tester to pressurize the system. You will more then likely see it leaking right where I said.

A viscous coupling attached to the center differential.

Have you checked the fluid level? Dropped the pan/replaced the fluid?

The ECU you decide to use will determine what you have to do. The automatic ECU can be made to work as a MT.....so I would just do that, and keep all the sensors meant for the AT engine. You can read more about what needs to be done on my swap write up www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

The 91-94 turbo legacies had 3.9 final drive ratio as well as the 92-94 AT legacies.

The plastic end tanks crack in the front. It's pretty common. You're going to need a new radiator.