Legacy777

Congrats. Yeah the belt can be a little tricky to get on some times. The camshaft seals can be a pain too. Once you've got the technique down, it's pretty easy though.

Yeah those cylinders look pretty good for 180k.

This is the ECU This is the TCU

With the key in the ON position, I would test that you have 12v on one side of the connector for the FWD fuse. If you do have 12v there, I'd suspect something wrong with the duty c solenoid. If you don't have 12v there, you may want to check some fuses. Regardless, if he drove it until there was clunking, he may have done irrepairable damage to the AWD system.

So your problems/hesitation started after you added the intake OR the BOV? Have you tried going back to stock and see if that fixes your problems?

You'll have to get the pullies at a dealer. www.subarugenuineparts.com has beat out 1stsubaru & subaruparts for prices

These pics may help. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/reardiff/ I seem to recall that one or two of the bolts go through into the housing of the diff, and may need some silicone sealant on them, howver I may be completely off base.

Does the car run ok when warm? I'd agree it sort of sounds like a coolant temp sensor.

It was like the early-mid 90's when things changed

You need to jack up the front end, put your hands on the struts and other suspension components and try and move them, see if anything is loose

ej22t motors came in the 91-94 turbo legacies. Stock hp was 165 with around 180 ft-lbs of torque.

Yes it's possible that you can have an oil seal leakage. I'm not sure the type of oil seal that's in there though.

Ditto on the old style replacement. But yeah, if it's cracked, you should replace it.

Yeah, I'd suggest pulling the codes. You could be searching a completely different system then where the actual problem is.

The PDM kits for the n/a's have been out there and working pretty well for people.

You can use the instructions on my site for the codes. You can use this as a scan tool for OBD1 on the first gen legacies http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/bcbfscan/

The carbon would only be on the turbine side. Just run some sea foam through. I wouldn't really worry about it though. Turbine temps get pretty high and cook stuff off.

You can remove the fan and clean the junk out of there. You need to remove the glove box and it should be like 3 screws holding the fan in the blower housing.

Do you have the model number? It should be TZ or TY something.

Be wary....if they set up camp....they could've chewed through other stuff, and wires....which could cause you lots of problems....not to mention....there's probably dead mice in there....

I'd recommend checking out www.rslibertyclub.org/forums and www.bbs.legacycentral.org

may want to also check out www.legacygt.com/forums

You're probably going to have to go to the dealer, or try and find one from a junkyard. The rear strut mounts from any 90 & 91 legacy sedan or wagon & AWD or FWD will work.

If you're only driving a mile or two, you're going to get considerable less mileage then what the "standard" city mpg is. I drive about 1-2 miles to work every day in my nissan truck, and the mileage is absolutely horrible, yet if I drive on the highway, I get great mileage. I really doubt anything is wrong with your car. At most, I'd recommend you change your thermostat....and/or possibly the coolant temp sensor. I just really can't see anything being wrong with your injectors.

I'd recommend keeping your stock intake. Just remove the resonator in the fender.