Legacy777

If you've had it up on a lift and felt everything in the suspension, and it's tight....the mount is probably ok.

Yeah, I'd start with the ECU. You could probably find a used one for 100 bucks or so. No idea if that would solve all the problems, but that's where I'd start.

It was built before that. Like I said, I had a 1990 Legacy wagon that has an SIA vin number.

The struts are a common wear item. If you've got over 80,000 miles on the original struts, you're doing pretty well. It's time to replace them.

Yeah I would think the torque converters are the same. As for electrical, I believe the only thing different on the AWD's is the duty c solenoid. So you should just verify that the pins for that sensor is there. I'd have to look at things more closely, to be absolutely sure, but you should be able to d/l the tcu i/o from my server.

Yeah, the access panels are in the trunk in the front.

If your suspension components are all ok, then I'd suspect the tires themself. If they have softer sidewalls, the car may sway slightly and not feel as planted. Also, if your struts are still original, they are probably shot, and in need of replacing. That will go a long ways to improve the ride/handling/feel of the car. I'd recommend KYB GR2's.

welcome

put a little vasoline in the hole and on the o-ring. That should help keep it from moving. That or everything needs to be relatively dry/clean and the o-ring should stay put.

If you want to do the swap, I'd suggest finding a cheap first gen legacy to swap all the stuff over from. It'll be much cheaper to buy the whole car then to get all the parts piece-meal.

The idle motor is on top of the throttle body. It may just need to be cleaned. It's possible the plunger is getting stuck and causing the check engine light. Or that the electrical connections are not good. You may want to post in the meet & greet forum to see if there's anyone around that can give you a recommendation on a mechanic. You may also want to try the regional forums on NASIOC, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums . There's bound to be some other impreza owners near you that can recommend a mechanic.

You may still have oil flow, but low pressure. If you're getting some pressure at idle, and "normal" pressure at higher rpms to fill the lifters, and the lifters don't leak....I wouldn't necessarily say they are going to make noise. If the sender is working correctly, what I'd lean towards is the o-ring between the block & oil pump not being aligned/installed properly during the oil pump work. I'd recommend pulling the oil pump back off and checking things.

MRT is a speed shop in Australia. They sell performance parts for subarus. I've got one of there mufflers I was running on my car when it was normally aspirated. I've got a different exhaust on there now that I swapped in a turbo engine.

ahh ok.

Yeah....that's why I have my camber set at -1 deg all the way around....because of the way I drive Plus it improves handling.

You're always going to have a little bit of oil residue and stuff in the PCV system....there's just no way around it. You could put in a separate oil catch can, but unless you have a turbo'd engine, I wouldn't really worry about it.

Too bad you're not closer. I'd give ya the MRT muffler I have for free!

It's possible some gunk got stuck in the oil pressure switch. Let's hope that's what happened, or that it's bad, because the oil light comes on when oil pressure is in the single digits. If the engine was run that long with that low of oil pressure....bad things are sure to happen.

Honestly.....Sometimes I think the subaru community has better knowledge then subaru does themself I've already given my piece on the numbers not being accurate, so I'm not going to bother.... But they once again give incorrect information. There were most definitely first gen legacies 1990-1994 that were built in the USA. I owned one and stole parts for my swap from it. You can email Subaru again if you'd like, but I think it's a futile battle.

A longer bolt won't really do anything. You could get an additional camber bolt and put it in the bottom bolt spot. here's another camber bolt that will work http://z1auto.com/prodmore.asp?model=wrx&cat=handling&prodid=223

You "should" have a camber bolt. Did it get replaced with a non-camber bolt?

Our cars have a camber bolt already. It's the top bolt holding the bottom part of the strut to the spindle. They either don't know this, or they're trying to screw you. Either way, camber bolts don't cost $100!! If they have maxed out the stock camber bolt, and still can't get it aligned, then it sounds like you got something bent underneath. Personally, I'd go somewhere else.

Yeah, you've probably damaged the viscous coupling on the center diff. Whether you have metal chunks floating around is unknown. Get four IDENTICAL size and make tires on that car.

Seafoam is O2 sensor safe.....and is an extremely good product/cleaner.

You may want to ask your local subaru dealership if they have a wiring diagram they could copy for you. I believe you're out of the USA, but you may be able to d/l the info you need from here http://techinfo.subaru.com