Legacy777

Or the low voltage isn't enough to engage the relays.

I'm not sure about the 95-99 engines, but there were differences of sensors between the MT & AT engines. The sensors matched the ECU. On the 95-99, I don't think they did that. I honestly had thought that the 95 had the single port, however there are a few people that have said their 95 has the dual port. I think 95 may have been a bubble year....where they had both the single and dual port exhaust heads.....don't quote me....just a guess.

http://techinfo.subaru.com You may be able to find out the info you need on crutchfield.com. They may have the radio pin outs and connector diagram. Also, some people on this board or http://forums.nasioc.com/forums may have some info.

Not really....they just don't want people paying for 3 days and d/l all the manuals.

Unfortunately.....no way around it that I know of.

I'd double check to make sure the timing belt is installed correctly. It may be firing, but at the wrong time.

Get your power issues taken care of and see if that affects your temp issues.

The stock speakers are 6.5". I don't know the depth, but the stock front speakers have a bracket to angle them upwards. So you can get spacers and run a deeper speaker. I'm running infinity kappa 63.i's in the front, with 1" custom wood spacers. The front mount depth is like an 1". So if I can fit them in there, you should be able to fit most other speakers. The rears, you have a limited top mount depth due to the deck lid, but the bottom mount depth shouldn't be an issue.

Do you know what car the cd changer came from? Do you have an owner's manual? You may want to check and see if it mentions anything about a 6 cd changer in it. What I'd do is try to find out what car the changer came from, get a wiring diagram for it, and get one for your car, then check that the pin outs are the same.

On the highway if I'm behaving....around 20ish. Around town 16-17 when I'm on it. I need to check my most recent couple of fill-ups though....I haven't checked them.

Hmm...yeah I'm not really sure how to disable the alarm. Have you asked the subaru dealership? Have you looked to see if there's a fuse?

Bolt ons MSD Dis 2 ignition Stock sized lw pullies lw flywheel magnecor 8.5mm wires CES 3" turbo back exhaust modified stock air box I did datalog during the pulls. I'll have to check the time. Yeah, as for starting at a lower rpm, that would have been better. I mainly just wanted a baseline before I started doing any other mods, so I had an idea of how much I gained.

The pilot bearing goes into the flywheel. It doesn't matter about whether the motor came from an auto or manual trans car.

As some of you may or may not know, I rebuilt and swapped an ej22t engine from a turbo legacy into my legacy. The motor's broken in, and I took it to the dyno. I got 153 HP at the wheels, and around 156 ft-lbs of torque. Not too bad for a pretty much stock ej22t with bolt ons. The dyno I was on doesn't use any correction factors, so it's pretty accurate, and is probably lower then most. Other interesting note is the tuner guy mentioned I'm running a little lean until about 4500 rpm, most likely due to the fact the small turbo builds boost so fast, but then I'm running a little rich afterwards. So a little tuning will probably smooth out the AFR. Boost level stayed pretty consistent across the entire rpm range. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tlegdyno1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tlegdyno2.jpg Pics of the engine rebuild & swap if you haven't seen them. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t

Your automatic does not have a center diff. Just change the trans fluid, and see if that helps things.

Yeah I don't know.....the plastic one on my turbo looked fine. I resealed, and put it back on.....

Unfortunately, you can't tell the final drive ratio from the trans number http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/engine_%26_trans_decode.jpg Your duty c solenoid is more then likely fine. I say that because inserting the fuse makes the torque bind go away. You've either got different final drive ratios, or the clutch plates are going. Only way I can think to check the final drive ratio is the drain the fluid from the diff, pear inside, and see if you can count the teeth on the ring gear.

Hmm....might be the switch. I'm not sure how the wiring is setup though.

You may want to post in the meet & greet forum as well.

The shop should be able to put the car up on a lift and determine where it's leaking. I think that would give you a pretty good idea whether it's a seal or something seriously wrong with the transmission.

The aluminum ones were found more then likely on the 90-91 legacies. I'd venture to guess that in 92 they went to the plastic one. My 90 engine has the metal one. My 93 turbo engine I rebuilt had the plastic one. There's no difference to my knowledge and should be 100% interchangeable.

You can not just swap on the extension housing an make the FWD transmission AWD. You must swap the entire transmission. Plus even if it would work, your front & rear final drive ratios would be off as the FWD transmission has a 3.70 final drive ratio.

Are these cars AT or MT? Are you planning to stay with the same type of tranny?

Originally I didn't. Two years ago or so I redid the wiring, and decided to just put a small square bit of dynamat where the speaker mounts to the door. Dynamat really only helps with rattles by lowering the resonant frequency. I was looking for more road noise quieting, because of that I just put the dynamat around the speaker. As for things being any quieter or better....I don't know. Here's some pics http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/stereorewire/

You should be able to add spacers to increase the depth. I don't really know the exact measurement. But I've got 1" custom wood spacers, and am running infiniti kappa 63.i's in my 90 legacy.