Legacy777

I'd make sure the drains are clear first.....then if you still have issues, look at the seal.

Glad it was an easy fix

The grease in the speedo cable housing gets thicker as it gets cold. That may be a cause. I know when I lived in PA, the cable made noise until it warmed up when it got cold out

You may want to look into replacing your coolant temp sensor.

yeah you need to change the gas tank when going from FWD to AWD. The FWD to AWD part really wasn't that bad. The AT to MT is a little more involved since there's more electrical issues to deal with, but overall it's not too bad. I could've done two AWD & 5MT conversions in the time it took me to work out all the issues with my EJ22T rebuild and swap.

I think if you disable the factory alarm, you may lose the remote door opener. Will the remote start not work with the alarm?

The 05 legacy does have some quirks it seems with the illumination control and radio. The radio and climate control system is all tied together. I've got a friend who has one, and has very similar issues. I'd defintely check out the legacygt forums. I know there are people on there that have gone through the gammit, and may have some ideas. I'd personally try and get subaru to fix things.....I'd probably try and contact them directly, since the dealer doesn't sound too competent.

If the car chassis is MAF based, and you have all the sensors for the MAF system, I would try and get a MAF based ECU.

It should work. It's a public server, not private, so the IP address, and everything else should be fine. Try it again, and if you still can't get to it, let me know.

You may want to search the board. I think it's been discussed before. If not, I know it has been discussed on www.legacygt.com/forums

The plastic stuff on the legacy isn't too bad. Try some of the newer-newer cars. To get the glove box off, there's two screws underneath. It's a piece of cake.

From the factory it is does not have a coolant bypass valve like some manufacturers use to control heating.

On the n/a EJ22's it doesn't really matter since the thermostat is positioned veritcally.

Just something I want to bring up. These cars have fuel injection....if everything is working properly, they will start! The controls, sensors, etc are there to account for the lower temps and the addition of extra fuel. In very cold temps, they should still start. However in very cold temps where you start running into issues is with the fluids. If you have a proper anti-freeze/water mix, you're safe down to like -50 deg or something crazy....so that's not really an issue in my mind. The oil however will start to thicken up. It shouldn't keep the car from starting, however it can making cranking more difficult, and can hinder lubrication at startup. Synthetic oils do not thicken up as much, and are better for extreme cold temps. The block heater is going to help keep the fluids in the engine warmer then the outside. I question how effective it's going to be on the oil in the oil pan to help cold start and thick oil viscosity. Lastly is the battery, battery performance does decrease when temperature drops, and that in combination with the thicker oil (harder to turn the engine), etc may keep the car from starting properly. I think the big things you should do if you live in really cold climates is get a battery warmer, block heater isn't a bad idea, however I'm not 100% sold on their effectiveness alone. But a block heater and an oil pan warmer would definitely be beneficial. Finally, run synthetic fluids.

There's no bypass on the heater core. Engine coolant always is circulating. If you remove the glove box, you should be able to see where the cable goes to the box and flapper door. The little end probably broke off.

Your coolant temp sensor is probably not good. As long as the temp isn't insanely cold, like -30 deg, the engine should start fine. I'd suggest replacing the coolant temp sensor. It can be had for around $20 at www.subarugenuineparts.com

Yup....I went down this very same road It'll act up again probably....

sportsfan, when they rebuilt your engine, did they replace the sensors with new ones, or reuse the existing? How long on average does it take for you car to warm up in the morning?

While I'm not sure the knock sensor would cause the car to shut off....it will cause you issues. I'd suggest clearing the codes, drive the car, and see what codes come back. You'll still want to probably replace the knock sensor. As mentioned, they have a new revisions with a different color plug/connector. White is the new color, grey is the old color. The canister purge solenoid can cause some issues, especially around idle speed if it's stuck open.

What does the road hazard plan give you? I've never bought a separate road hazard plan. I'd definitely recommend discount because they're everywhere and will repair a tire if needed for free. Not sure if they still make them, but the yokohama guardex's I had when I was in PA were really good....about on par with the blizzacks.

Autozone baby.....you get three sizes....for like 10 bucks. You can't beat that.....and I tried sears, home depot, lowes, etc. None of them had anything.

Please continue any discussion on this topic in the OT thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48185 thanks

It's your contacts on the starter. Next time it won't start, stick your head outside of the window and listen. You'll more then likely hear clicking. When I had my issues, I thought I didn't hear a clicking noise. It took sticking my head out the window/leaving the door open when I tried to start it to hear the clicking.

You didn't hurt anything.

The turbo clutch setup is a "pull" style clutch. The lever arm pulls on the throw out bearing that is attached to the pressure plate, which then pulls on the fingers of the pressure plate, and eliminates the clamping force on the clutch disc....aka disengages the clutch. The n/a clutch setup is a "push" style clutch. The lever arm pushes on the throw out bearing, which pushes on the center part of the pressure plate/fingers, and eliminates the clamping force on the clutch disc....aka disengages the clutch. Here's a blow up diagram of the turbo clutch. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_turbo_clutch_blowup.jpg I don't have the n/a scanned. I'm pretty sure the clutch discs are not interchangable between the pull & push style transmissions. I can double check part #'s, but I doubt they're the same.