Legacy777

Please continue any discussion on this topic in the OT thread http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=48185 thanks

It's your contacts on the starter. Next time it won't start, stick your head outside of the window and listen. You'll more then likely hear clicking. When I had my issues, I thought I didn't hear a clicking noise. It took sticking my head out the window/leaving the door open when I tried to start it to hear the clicking.

You didn't hurt anything.

The turbo clutch setup is a "pull" style clutch. The lever arm pulls on the throw out bearing that is attached to the pressure plate, which then pulls on the fingers of the pressure plate, and eliminates the clamping force on the clutch disc....aka disengages the clutch. The n/a clutch setup is a "push" style clutch. The lever arm pushes on the throw out bearing, which pushes on the center part of the pressure plate/fingers, and eliminates the clamping force on the clutch disc....aka disengages the clutch. Here's a blow up diagram of the turbo clutch. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_turbo_clutch_blowup.jpg I don't have the n/a scanned. I'm pretty sure the clutch discs are not interchangable between the pull & push style transmissions. I can double check part #'s, but I doubt they're the same.

It's 14mm. If you have an autozone, that's the only place I found that had allen sockets large enough. It came in a package of 3, 12, 14, and one larger one.

No, the turbo & non-turbo clutches are not interchangable.

ECU is behind the dash here's a pic http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ecuhide.jpg Instructions for checking the ECU are on my site (link in my sig)

Cory, Like I said, it really doesn't matter too much about the engine, as long as you have the correct sensors. The intake manifold would have most of the sensors on it.

Because you mentioned it stalls right after warm up. Your symptoms aren't typical for a temp sensor being bad, but it may be a contributor. That's why I said it's a long shot.

The newer ones probably is from 96ish or so and up. The phase 2 4EAT had a few more inputs like torque converter speed and one or two other things. As long as the two transmissions have the same pin outs, then I don't see why they wouldn't work, regardless of what part # it has. You may want to get a subscription for http://techinfo.subaru.com and find the TCU pin outs for the model years of transmissions your looking at. You should be able to verify whether the TCU pins are the same or not. Also, it'll have final drive ratio info.

It may be a long shot, but you may want to replace the coolant temp sensor. It's about $20 from www.subarugenuineparts.com

If you don't get any response in here, you may want to post in the meet & greet forum.

Wiggling the pin back and forth in the hole while pressing down can help release trapped air.

It could be a temp sensor.....usually the temp sensor causes other drivability issues. You may want to look at cleaning the IAC valve.....and/or if you want, replace the coolant temp sensor.

May want to check out www.legacygt.com/forums There's some issues with some of the electronics and stuff.

www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/swap

To my knowledge the EA trans aren't a direct bolt up to the EJ motors. There's an adapter plate I think that can be bought. May want to search in the old gen or retrofit forum.

What do you mean, what tranny fits? Do you have an auto or manual? The 92-94 normally aspirated autos have a 3.90 final drive ratio and are interchangable.

Yes, you need to twist them. Once they've broken loose it's easier to pull them out. Sort of twist/wiggle them, while pulling up.q

The rubber pieces shouldn't be keeping the caliper from going back together. Is the piston compressed all the way? Any chance you could snap a pic?

Is the doughnut thing a gasket? I know they changed things a little on the newer legacies, but on the older one that doughnut piece is a gasket and can be replaced.....assuming we're talking about the same thing.

Has it always done this, or are you just noticing this behavior recently? It sounds pretty normal. The coolant temp sensors are under the passenger side intake http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/DCP_2477.JPG You'll only have the one bigger one. If your IAC valve is the newer style it's right at the throttle body. If it's the older style, it's off to the passenger side of the intake manifold.

Are you sure it's coming from the mount area under the car?

If the problem is the MAF, cleaning it won't help. You may want to see about finding a used one to try, or if someone has one that you can borrow.

check out my website for info on checking codes and other info. Your problem is probably this little guy. http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/speedocablebase.jpg The shaft inside the piece breaks, and the speedo no longer works. Replace that piece, reset the ecu, and everything should be good.