Legacy777

email me the pics and I will host so everyone can see. As for the compatibility....no you aren't limited to 90/91. Do you have any years in particular you're looking for? In 95, subaru went to OBD2, and changed the EJ22 motor. So after that point you get into some issues with engine management. You can probably run this new EJ22 with the newer cars ECU, but depending on what it had originally, it may not be optimal. I'll pm you my email addy.

Hybrids are really on a stop-gap measure until fuel cells become cost effective and more compact. Once that happens, the move will be towards full electric vehicles with fuel cell technology. The bottom line is once oil prices rise to a certain point where alternative energy sources are as or more economical....then alternative fuel source technology will advance. The world revolves around economics.....it's sad to say that, but it's true, and there's really not much you can do about it.

Here's some info on the center diff/viscous coupling http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff1.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff3.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_center_differential.jpg

Checking the resistance is not a valid test. What you need to do is put your multimeter on AC volts. Have someone crank the engine with the starter. Measure the AC voltage across the two pins coming from the cam sensor. The voltage should be at least 0.1 V Try pulling the EGI/TCU fuse (fuse 14) for about 30 minutes, and see if that clears the codes. The coolant temp sensor is pretty cheap $20 or so. I'd recommend replacing it, especially if it's original. Knock sensor isn't too expensive....around $60. You may want to replace that one too. They've updated the knock sensor design because the old one cracks and shorts out. www.subarugenuineparts.com is a good place to get parts, much cheaper then local suby dealers.

You're welcome for the info. No prob about the slow response.

If the filler tube is where it's leaking, no you don't have to remove the axle.

It depends on where the leak is. More then likely the leak is at the fuel neck filler hose. if so, you can replace that in an hour...easy. If it is in the tank....then the entire rear crossmember/suspension/etc needs to be removed to drop the tank.

Yeah I forgot about them....my doesn't have them. You just need to make sure the system is discharged before messing with it. I don't specifically know how to do that, but maybe someone else does.

All depends on how the viscous coupling fails. If the plates inside lock together, you're going to be getting some serious binding.

here's some pics of the various sensors on the engine http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/

Are you sure you have the same front and rear final drive ratio???

The caliper and bracket (thing with the greased pin that the caliper slides on) both are slightly wider on the 91-94 turbo legacy rear brakes to accomodate the vented rotor. I've got my old calipers that used the solid rotor. I can dig them out and take pictures if you'd like. But from what I'm seeing in your pics, the opening is way too large for a solid disc rotor.

When the manual button is depressed and gear selector in the 1 position, the only difference that "may" occur is in the AWD map (ie torque split). The manual button doesn't do anything when the gear selector is in Drive. Change your tranny fluid and see if that helps the binding feeling.

A lot depends on how you drive, but clutch should last at LEAST 75-100k. Front brake pads, at least 20k....probably way more....rear pads....probably double what the fronts do. Center diff, no maintenance. Rear diff....just change the fluid every 60k or so. I don't think the headgaskets are an issue any more.

I guess I can see that. The center diff is binding and causing the issues. Do they give a break down of costs, parts & labor?

Yes....but you really don't need to use the manual button. Just move the gear selector to the gear you want, that's what I did. Basically the manual button was there as a very primitive form of traction control by keeping the transmission out of 1st gear and reducing the torque to the wheels (wheel slipage).

Are you talking about the spoiler piece on top in the back? I'm not of much help, but free bump.

Use permatex ultra grey. It's what is recommended in the manual Here's a chart with sealant recommendations and equivalent sealants http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/subaru_sealants.gif

You could also try adding some LSD clutch type additive. That sometimes helps. But first I'd change the trans fluid.

Looks like you have a set of vented rotor calipers on there from the 91-94 turbo legacy http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tlegbrakes/ The hubs are the same, so with the way those calipers look, I'd maybe look at trying to get another set of calipers for the non-vented rotor. Or you can try and get vented rotors.

I'd probably say yes they are interchangable. The final drive ratio is probably not the same however, so you'll have to swap the rear diff. You "may" have to swap the ECU, but probably not.

The manual button simply holds the transmission in either 2nd gear (when the gear selector is in the 2 position), or holds the transmission in either 2nd or 3rd gear (when the gear selector is in the 3 position). That is all the manual button does. I guess you could say it's like a manual in the respect it won't shift out of those gears....but in my eyes I don't really consider it to be like a manual trans.

You need a press to press out the bearing. Unless you have the special tools to do it, I'd recommend just removing the knuckle from the car, take it to a shop, have them press out the old bearing, and press in the new one. That way, it'll save you some money on labor. I'd also provide them with the bearing. I believe a lot of the imprezas are now using the legacy rear bearing because it's better. Other thing to note is the grease that it's shipped in is packing grease only. They need to be packed with good wheel bearing grease. If you search, I'm sure you'll find some additional info.

It should fit on the splines. The only issue you may have is if the cruise control lever is different or interferes. On the first gen legacy the cruis control set/resume stalk is on the steering wheel. Not sure if the 97 is the same, and if so, if the WRX is, and would it have the same wiring connector to hook it up.

Nope, you're going to have to remove the struts to replace the springs.