Legacy777

You're welcome for the info. No prob about the slow response.

If the filler tube is where it's leaking, no you don't have to remove the axle.

It depends on where the leak is. More then likely the leak is at the fuel neck filler hose. if so, you can replace that in an hour...easy. If it is in the tank....then the entire rear crossmember/suspension/etc needs to be removed to drop the tank.

Yeah I forgot about them....my doesn't have them. You just need to make sure the system is discharged before messing with it. I don't specifically know how to do that, but maybe someone else does.

All depends on how the viscous coupling fails. If the plates inside lock together, you're going to be getting some serious binding.

here's some pics of the various sensors on the engine http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/injectors/

Are you sure you have the same front and rear final drive ratio???

The caliper and bracket (thing with the greased pin that the caliper slides on) both are slightly wider on the 91-94 turbo legacy rear brakes to accomodate the vented rotor. I've got my old calipers that used the solid rotor. I can dig them out and take pictures if you'd like. But from what I'm seeing in your pics, the opening is way too large for a solid disc rotor.

When the manual button is depressed and gear selector in the 1 position, the only difference that "may" occur is in the AWD map (ie torque split). The manual button doesn't do anything when the gear selector is in Drive. Change your tranny fluid and see if that helps the binding feeling.

A lot depends on how you drive, but clutch should last at LEAST 75-100k. Front brake pads, at least 20k....probably way more....rear pads....probably double what the fronts do. Center diff, no maintenance. Rear diff....just change the fluid every 60k or so. I don't think the headgaskets are an issue any more.

I guess I can see that. The center diff is binding and causing the issues. Do they give a break down of costs, parts & labor?

Yes....but you really don't need to use the manual button. Just move the gear selector to the gear you want, that's what I did. Basically the manual button was there as a very primitive form of traction control by keeping the transmission out of 1st gear and reducing the torque to the wheels (wheel slipage).

Are you talking about the spoiler piece on top in the back? I'm not of much help, but free bump.

Use permatex ultra grey. It's what is recommended in the manual Here's a chart with sealant recommendations and equivalent sealants http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/techinfo/subaru_sealants.gif

You could also try adding some LSD clutch type additive. That sometimes helps. But first I'd change the trans fluid.

Looks like you have a set of vented rotor calipers on there from the 91-94 turbo legacy http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/tlegbrakes/ The hubs are the same, so with the way those calipers look, I'd maybe look at trying to get another set of calipers for the non-vented rotor. Or you can try and get vented rotors.

I'd probably say yes they are interchangable. The final drive ratio is probably not the same however, so you'll have to swap the rear diff. You "may" have to swap the ECU, but probably not.

The manual button simply holds the transmission in either 2nd gear (when the gear selector is in the 2 position), or holds the transmission in either 2nd or 3rd gear (when the gear selector is in the 3 position). That is all the manual button does. I guess you could say it's like a manual in the respect it won't shift out of those gears....but in my eyes I don't really consider it to be like a manual trans.

You need a press to press out the bearing. Unless you have the special tools to do it, I'd recommend just removing the knuckle from the car, take it to a shop, have them press out the old bearing, and press in the new one. That way, it'll save you some money on labor. I'd also provide them with the bearing. I believe a lot of the imprezas are now using the legacy rear bearing because it's better. Other thing to note is the grease that it's shipped in is packing grease only. They need to be packed with good wheel bearing grease. If you search, I'm sure you'll find some additional info.

It should fit on the splines. The only issue you may have is if the cruise control lever is different or interferes. On the first gen legacy the cruis control set/resume stalk is on the steering wheel. Not sure if the 97 is the same, and if so, if the WRX is, and would it have the same wiring connector to hook it up.

Nope, you're going to have to remove the struts to replace the springs.

Are the pads different brand/manufacturer/model? The issue you could run into is if they are different pad compounds, they could apply different brake forces, and cause the car to pull to one side or the other. You really should have identical pad types, etc on the left & right side of the car. Safety aside...you should be alright with putting the old rotors on. Depending on the pad compound and break in, it's possible to get some uneven pad deposits...but probably not overly likely.

Have you looked at the struts to see if there's any markings on them? I'd really recommend you put the same brand/type on all four corners. If you put a strut with a higher/softer damping rate on either the front or rear, you can severely offset the handling characteristics of the car. My car was like this. I had stiffer struts in the rear and softer in the front. The car was very tail happy and the rear end would step out on cornering. I'd recommend KYB GR2 struts.

You may want to replace the coolant temp sensor. How does it run when it's all warmed up? Other possibility is the idle air control valve.

The manual button does absolutely nothing to make it more like a 5spd. Read this http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html#manualbutton