Legacy777

The whole thing comes out. I don't know if you can replace just the white connector.....I doubt it. Here's some pics of the fuel pump assembly http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/ej22t/28

If you have any question that they're not working properly, just buy a new one. They're $20 from www.subarugenuineparts.com It's a critical sensor that can cause you lots of issues if it's being tempermental.

On the newer cars 95+, it should be located on the transmission.

You need the solenoid that's there, which is called the pressure exchange solenoid. It switches open so the pressure sensor can take barometric pressure readings. The filter should be there so you don't get junk inside the solenoid and pressure sensor.

No it's not going to work without some complications. The 93 AT has a 3.90 final drive ratio. Pretty darn sure the 98's even overseas did not have that same ratio. If you decided to go with another final drive ratio, you need to swpa the rear diffs. Also, the electronics changed I believe in 97 or so with the Phase 2 4EAT. When this happened, they changed the connector, so you would have to modify that.....and while I think the 93 TCU would probably work, it may not work well.

Because the manual was designed to be confusing....haha

No I don't believe there is a separate fuse, however it is tied into one of the fuse blocks. Do you notice any thing else that isn't working? Here's a diagram for the first gen legacies http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_back-up_light.jpg BTW, what year and model subie do you have?

http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html#manualbutton

You can pull the trans codes from the info on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/trans.html The manual button doesn't do squat to make the trans shift "manually". More then likely it's just the age of the transmission. Maybe the brake band needs adjusting, but I don't think it's going to make things feel brand new again.

Sounds like your transmission is on its way out.... Not sure exactly what the problem is, but the entire thing will probably have to be taken apart to fix it.

I don't know the specific torque specs. Just don't overtighten the pressure plate bolts. Other then that, every thing else is pretty straight forward if you've done a clutch job before.

If you have ABS, the answer is no.

oohh.....someone with the same interior color as me

Are you talking about the caps at the rear of the heads? There's a rubber plug on the driver's side. The passenger side has a metal cap that's bolted on.

may want to post in the meet & greet forum, as well as on nasioc

If you have things wired up properly it shouldn't matter one bit how you wire the switch up. It's simply a break in the circuit. Measure the resistance across the switch's pins. With the switch "ON" circuit closed, the resistance should be 0 ohms. If it's not, get a different switch. If that's the case, that's more then likely why you're having the tranny light blink. Other option is to use a relay with a switch.

Are they specifically for a legacy?

2nd & 4th gear utilize some of the same clutches. Doesn't sound overly promising.

What kind of fluid are you putting in to cost over $100?????

yeah there will be gear oil on it.

You can take a look at the following wiring diagrams & ECU I/O, but what you need to do is ground pin B56 12, and hook a light bulb in series with pin F47 19, and then ground the other side coming off the light bulb. Connecting pin B56 12 to ground will be like connecting the black read memory connectors. If you have any questions, just holler. http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page2.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/2-7_ECU_I-O_page3.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical1.jpg http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/files/swap/6-3_engine_electrical2.jpg

The trans light shouldn't go on if you've done everything correctly. What type of switch are you using? Is it a lighted toggle type switch?

It's possible GM modified things when Subaru & GM split....not really sure. You may want to ask them when they updated things.

You need to use the black connectors. You can read the procedure on my site www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

Replied to your PM. You have solid lifters, and they will need to be adjusted. Also, please only post once, no need to post multiple threads.